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Gettin' Attached to Bridgin' the Gap

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  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
  • 835 posts
Posted by mcfunkeymonkey on Friday, March 27, 2009 6:23 PM

The clear silicone caulk seems like the way to go.  The track is already CAed (that's glued, not californiaed, though being here I guess it's both Cool) to the trestle ties, but I'm pretty sure with the goopiness of the caulk I can solder the rail connections while the caulk is tacky and dries.

Unless there's any potential pitfalls I should watch out for.

Cheers!

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Winnipeg Canada
  • 1,637 posts
Posted by Blind Bruce on Friday, March 27, 2009 10:00 AM

I would use clear silicone caulk. You can get the bridge "almost perfect" as it sets. Then "fine tune" the track when you set it in place.

HTH, 

73

Bruce in the Peg

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
  • 835 posts
Gettin' Attached to Bridgin' the Gap
Posted by mcfunkeymonkey on Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:55 PM

About ready to install an A-Frame Bridge in my N-scale layout.  Got the river bed plastered & painted.  Was going to attach the bents to the plaster of paris rocks, solder the rails and then finish the riverbed rock / talus / debris, then magic water.

Best technique for attaching stained bass-wood bents to painted plaster?  At first I was thinking of just working the bents into the plaster as it set, but that seemed too ridged and unforgiving.  I could wood glue it, or white glue it or mattemedium it.  Then I thought:  why not laytex silicone caulk it?  (same technique as laying track).

Any thoughts on best techniques?  I'll post a pict of the bridge in place (not affixed) and the space without the bridge.  Thanks for the ideas!
--Mark

 

 

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