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modeling a river colors, materials etc.??

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modeling a river colors, materials etc.??
Posted by mmr1229 on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 5:18 PM

Currently I have a small N scale layout about 100 sq. ft., and I allready cut the basic shape of the river through the layout and i am satisfied with it. My question is what to do next with the coloring and the materials, I would like to have the river somewhat shallow (just enough depth for a small fishing boat). Any help at all is appreciated thanks.

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Posted by SD Fan on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 8:56 PM

Well, for the river color, i would use a black or a dark blue color, and then near the shore, fade that color into a tan to sujest shalower water. For the water itself, i use and would recomend Woodland Scenics Realistic Water with there water effects bottle thrown in for fun, this stuff is so good that i even used it on science project. Just make shure you fill all the holes in the layout, even the smallest of ones.

The only thing we have to fear is fear itself, or maybe ballasting some track.
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Posted by jecorbett on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:33 PM

I would highly recommend a video Dave Frary did on water features. I got mine from Micro Mark but I'm sure it is available from other sources as well. He talks about various types of water from rapids to still water as well as waterfalls. He discusses ways to color the water feature as well. Here's one I did closely following his techniques:

I used WS Realistic Water and also WS Water Effects. Some prefer Envirotex because it gives a harder surface and is self leveling. If I was doing a smooth water surface, I would definitely go with Envirotex. Realistic Water gives a little bit of a rippled surface.

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 11:37 PM

I like some "real" depth to my water.  This is a pond, when it was just a hole gouged in the pink foam and covered with plaster cloth:

Next, I painted the bed with cheap acrylic paints, working from blacks and blues in the center to tans near the edge.  I added real sand and some talus (rocks) to the bed as well:

As was mentioned, Envirotex Lite makes very nice still water.  I did 3 or 4 pours here, each about an eighth of an inch thick.  I tinted each one differently with a drop or two of cheap acrylic paint - black for the first (deepest) layer, then blue, then darker and lighter green.  This graduated approach gives the water itself "optical depth," so you avoid that clear-as-glass look, and add some murkiness to the water.  As it gets deeper, it gets more and more opaque, more the way real water is.

As you can see from this shot and other posts above, the scenery around the water is important, too.  Ground cover, rocks, trees and even birds will be reflected in the water.  Take time with your water scenes, and you will be rewarded with a great focal point for your layout.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by mmr1229 on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 3:18 PM

thanks i appreciate it by the way your river scene looks awsome. my river is about 12 inches wide and about 48 inches long, do you think woodland scenics realistic water will work ok. cause i wouldn't mind a few ripples to enhance the apperance. i'm assuming that i'm going to need quite a bit of it though because the river is cut through 1 inch foam. another question i have is when you add some color to the realistic water will you still be able to see whats underneath, rocks, sand etc?? thanks again

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Posted by reklein on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 6:29 PM

I've seen people talk about problems with WS water, won't harden,clouds up Etc. My favorite way is to paint the river surface the color you like. Get a photo for examples , Then use gloss acrylic media to surface over the color. Paint it on so the brush strokes resemble flowing water. It may take a couple layers. Then go back over with white to simulate ripples. 12x48 is quite a large surface and this method is a little cheaper than some. You should be able to get all your paint supplies at a craft store. BILL

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Posted by mikelhh on Thursday, March 26, 2009 6:31 AM

 Whatever you use [I used two-part epoxy resin from the hardware store] I agree with Mr Beasley that you might like to seriously consider pouring it in layers and tinting the mixes.

 Mine was poured in three layers over the river bed that was painted in various greens and browns.

 First pour was brownish:


 

 second was green:

 

third was blue-green:

 

 

Mike

 

edit  yes you will still be able to see through it, especially at the edges, but it will be harder to see straight to the bottom.


Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:27 PM

Excellent illustrations, and an even better finished product, Mike!

I was very cautious and tentative about my water projects.  They can be a bit scary, because you only get one chance.  However, use of thin layers, which you have to do anyway to prevent air bubbles from forming, gives you the opportunity to make corrections from layer to layer.

The photos of the 3 mixed batches with tinting are great.  It gives a good idea of how much color to add, and how to use multiple shades to get illusion of depth.  Thanks again.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by selector on Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:42 PM

I wanted to get the look of spring and early summer run-off water in the Thompson River in British Columbia.  I had used a couple of layers of non-tinted two-part epoxy, but found it quite planar without a hint of motion on the surface.  So, I mixed another batch, but added about 1/2 tsp of plaster of paris and two drops of "Hauder Medium Green" to the roughly 1/2 cup batch.  When it dried it was still very shiny and planar, but it was the right colour and turbidity.  So, I stippled on a thin layer of gel gloss medium and this is how it turned out.

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Posted by tgindy on Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:50 PM

This is one of the most concise "river threads" I've seen on this forum!

Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956

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Posted by nw_fan on Thursday, March 26, 2009 3:44 PM
If you have the time and patience, why not practice on a scrap of foam? Form a small section of river, just like you want on your layout. It only needs to be 6 inches long or so. You might learn something along the way, that will really pay off when you pour your "real" river on your layout.
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Posted by wm3798 on Thursday, March 26, 2009 5:19 PM

 This topic comes up about every other week.  Try doing a topic search, and you'll find and exhaustive amount of information.

you'll also find this link more than once!

Lee

Route of the Alpha Jets  www.wmrywesternlines.net

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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Thursday, March 26, 2009 7:08 PM

 I'm building a layout using 2" foam.  I've decided to have a narrow river running through.  The information and photos on this thread are excellent!  I'll be referring to it when I get to that stage.

Thanks guys! Big SmileThumbs Up

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by GARYIG on Sunday, March 29, 2009 6:37 PM

I like depths also so I tried this idea.  Hope it helps. Painted river bottom and added details then covered with claer sheet from an old poster frame.  Added ripples with WS and dry painted the very tops for white caps.

 

100_0593.jpg TOP VIEW picture by GIIG21

100_0582.jpg RIVER SEE THROUGH picture by GIIG21

100_0580.jpg RIVER COVER picture by GIIG21

100_0581.jpg COVER ON BASE picture by GIIG21

 

Gary Iglesias, Hialeah, FL http://photobucket.com/GARYS_TOWN
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Posted by nbrodar on Monday, March 30, 2009 8:59 AM

 I used Delta Creamcoat Territorial Beige and Prussian Blue to color the bottom of this river.  I topped it with acrylic gloss medium:

 

After I was done, I though it was a tad too garish.   So I mixed a batch of acrylic gloss medium tinted with a couple dots of Wedgewood Green and applied another coat:

 

Nick

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Posted by OntarioTodd on Monday, March 30, 2009 8:05 PM

 Great stuff guys. Can you tint the Woodland Scenics water?

Todd

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Posted by Driline on Monday, March 30, 2009 9:16 PM

mikelhh

 Whatever you use [I used two-part epoxy resin from the hardware store] I agree with Mr Beasley that you might like to seriously consider pouring it in layers and tinting the mixes.

 Mine was poured in three layers over the river bed that was painted in various greens and browns.

  

 

Mike

 

edit  yes you will still be able to see through it, especially at the edges, but it will be harder to see straight to the bottom.  

Very realistic. I'm getting cold just looking at it.  Smile

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Posted by HarryHotspur on Monday, March 30, 2009 11:07 PM

 One minor suggestion. You can test the color of your tints by putting a drop in plain water. It will be virtually the same color as when mixed with your water material. At least that works with acrylic gloss and Envirotex. I haven't tried others.

- Harry

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Posted by HarryHotspur on Monday, March 30, 2009 11:23 PM

 Mike - That is exceptionally fine modeling all around. I can't get my water to look nearly that good, so I hope you'll tolerate a few (perhaps dumb) questions.

1.   In the middle of the stream (almost directly opposite the pickup truck) there is a black area, and just below the black area there is a white-blue-ish area on the surface. Does the white-blue-ish area represent almost frozen surface water, or am I just seeing reflections?

2.   The pond area on the right has a green-ish color. Is that because it isn't frozen, or because it's deeper, or perhaps a reflection of something green in the background?

3.   Finally, what did you use for snow?  It looks terrific.

Please pardon these nit-picky type questions, but you have created exactly the look I have been trying to achieve.

Thanks.

- Harry

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Posted by mikelhh on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 6:52 AM

Thanks to all who commented.

Harry - 1 it's just reflections, a bit distorted with ripples. The dark part would be the loco, and the blue is the bed sheet hanging on the wall behind.

            2  the water to the right is the main river. It's meant to look deeper than the drain alongside the building. The river bed was painted darker green than the drain and it received three pours whereas the drain only received two - it didn't get the brown layer. While the drain water was wet I added some pollution in the form of milky white paint on a fine brush stirred around to cloud the water. Maybe you can just make it out at the bottom left of the photo.

            3  I've used three things for snow: Heki glitter snow, Woodland Scenics snow and something called Micro Balloons which is actually an extender for epoxy resins recommended to me by the hobby shop. In my opinion the micro balloons represents snow better than the others, but it must be glued down because it's very fine and can be inhaled.

 

Mike

P.S. there's no such thing as a dumb question.

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Posted by perry1060 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 6:44 PM

I did this with a two part resin called Pour On (no different from Envirotex). I added acrylic green to it and tested it to be sure the resin kicked before using it on my layout...

 

Here's one shot...

 

The dust on the water wipes off no problem with a damp rag.

Enjoy the hobby Perry
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Posted by nw_fan on Saturday, April 4, 2009 9:26 AM

nbrodar

Nick

 

Few engines look as beautiful as the Class J in fall foliage. Conrail might be a close second, bust since they are not steam they don't count.Whistling ).   Very nice scene you've modeled.

Precision Transportation

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