I need to mount a Tortoise slightly off-center using the left hole in the fulcrum rather than the center hole. I don't need the remote mount.
I assume I should center the points and actuator hub and then make (2) 90-degree bends in the actuator wire so it runs vertically to the centered points through the left hole. I estimate I'll need 4 1/4" of wire (3 3/4" for the vertical; 1/2" for the offset from the hub to the vertical).
I'd appreciate any perspective on my plan from those who've been there. I searched for the answer but couldn't find it (although admittedly I didn't read all 25 pages!).
Thanks.
Rick Krall
Why do you need 4 3/4" vertical? Are you using thick insulation as your roadbed, above plywood. Why can't you mount the Tortoise in a hole cut in the insulation, directly to the undeside of the ties? Bob
Why do you need such a long wire? In an area which may be similar to what you're doing, I cut a hole in the styrofoam large enough for the entire Tortoise to fit into, and mounted the motor directly to the bottom of the turnout.
Fair questions regarding wire length Bob and cacole--the turnout's laid on a 1" homosote/plywood base and I have to mount the Tortoise on a 1x2 cleat to access the throwbar and not interfere with feeders and the Tortoise powering the turnout next to it in my yard. I laid (2) turnouts too close together in error. Not content with that error, I made another one when I positioned them so the access holes clear, but are very close to, the cleat. All of this limits my access and flexibility.
I can reverse the Tortoises and attach them directly to the subroadbed if I desolder and reposition the feeders, but then they'll face the cleat and it'll be difficult or impossible to access the fulcrum for final adjustments.
Never having been faced with this before, I figured (hoped?) the easiest approach would be simply to mount the Tortoises on the cleat and extend the actuator wires. No matter how they're mounted, though, I have to run the wire through an offset hole on at least (1) Tortoise to fit them both in the available space. Hence my question.
Rick
FYI, I answered my own question. Circuitron provides Application Note AN-6000-01 to address off-center mounting of more than 1/4". Tony's has excerpted it here:
http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/tortoise/off-center-mounting.htm
In a word, the solution is to fabricate a bar that runs horizontally from the Tortoise's actuator hub after being secured to the hub by the standard set screw that comes with the machine. The actuator wire runs vertically to the turnout from the end of that bar. Appears to be simple and, I trust, effective.
I prefer to run the actuating wire up through a rivet rather than into the plastic throwbar. The Walther's DCC friendly turnouts use 2 separate point clips instead of the old style full bar. What I do is mount the tortoise onto a 3"square piece of 1/4" plywood. Towards the very back on the centerline or off set if needed, I put on a #6x1" drywall screw. I center the tortoise and insert the wire into one of the rivets, being sure that the centerlines are parallel, I screw in the drywall screw. This way I have some lateral adjustment to equalize the point pressure and then tighten the screw to lock it in place. John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
johncolleyI [snip] mount the tortoise onto a 3"square piece of 1/4" plywood. Towards the very back on the centerline or off set if needed, I put on a #6x1" drywall screw.[snip]
I [snip] mount the tortoise onto a 3"square piece of 1/4" plywood. Towards the very back on the centerline or off set if needed, I put on a #6x1" drywall screw.[snip]
Intriguing, John. I use masking tape to secure the Tortoise temporarily after I optimize its position. I like your #6 screw idea--much easier to work with than the #4s positioned so close to the machine!