I'm ready to strip the paint off the last spraycan job and redo it with an airbrush, from this forum and elsewhere I've pretty much dedcided I want double action and internal mix. Here are a few questions please.
first a general airbrush painting question: on paint mixing, does the dilution effect the color tint or shade in any way, or is Harbor Mist always Harbor Mist?
What are the preferrences on gravity feed or sphion action?
and what about those airbrushes that come both ways.
I have a "nail gun" compressor that I would intend to use, and/or I might just get the spare tire air can and go that way (for the benefit of reduced noise in the small work space I have), either way I'm thinking from what I see here, I want a mostiure trap (and with the tire can, a regulator), do the regulator/water traps units I see do a good enough job or do I also need one of those small inline water filters?
one last one, is there any value in getting one of the pretty cheap ones, $40 or less, and get my feet wet, or just go with a bit better one off the bat, That said, I need to keep this under $100 if I can.
Thanks in advance.
Roypea, modeling Southern Colorado transition era, in the double/shared mailline area and west, Walsenburg, Trinadad etc. In HO
Unless you're stripping a brass model, I would look for an undecorated replacement shell.
Unless you're going to be doing fine line painting, a Badger Model 200 (external mix/single action) should be all you will ever need. It's not expensive, easy to clean (important) easy to onclog (very important...especially while learning to mix), and will last you for years. I used to custom paint, and this was my weapon of choice.
An inline moisture trap is important, especially on brass. The pressure gauge is good for changing psi for some thicker paints.
I'm old school, and can mix the old FLOQUIL colors in my head. But because they were solvent based, were discontinued. I highly recommend BADGER Model-flex or Accu-flex paints. Very little thinning needed.
If you are going to be doing a lot of painting over the years, seriously consider a spraybooth and chemical mask.
low cost airbrush is one thing, low cost air supply??
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
fifedoga Badger Model 200 (external mix/single action)
Just as a point of clarification, I believe that the Badger 200 series of airbrushes is internal mix.
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/BADGER_200.asp
Unless you really want a double action, I would agree with fifedog. The Badger 200 is a great single action internal mix AB. I used one for many years until I decided to move to a double action. If you really really do want a double, then I would say that for less than $100 you could go for the Badger 150 or the Paasche VL for siphon jobs. If you can try them in hand at a LHS you should do that. Nothing is worse than an AB that you just don't like holding on to.
Gravity feed models allow for (generally) better detail work and can be set up to work at lower pressures (less overspray that way). In this category there are a few choices below $100 - Paasche Talon, Badger 100LG, the new Renegade Velocity (juust under $100), and the one from Iwata's Revolution series (can't remember the model name). Doubles take a lot more practice; if you want a good AB and won't be doing freehand pinstriping you can't go wrong with the 200.
I have used a ModelMaster DA syphon airbrush for some time now with great results. The worst problem I've encountered is the vent on the large cup. It is a large hole, and once I tilted the gun too much with a full cup and spilled half of it all over my pants and floor. There is a bit of a learning curve with it, mostly adjusting the needle to the pressure and viscosity of the paint, but it isn't rocket science. The color you mix will stay the same, regardless of how much you reduce it. The difference will come in the coverage. You can reduce black paint with 25% reducer and it will almost cover in one coat. Reduce that same black with 95% reducer and it is a translucent dirt and grime coat, but still black. You can just see through it. I normally use my shop compressor (60gal 220vac)with the airbrush, and drop the regulator to 15psi or so. Thin paints can use a little less pressure and still atomize the paint sufficiently. If you see the paint hitting the surface as big dots, then you need more pressure or to thin the paint. It should take two coats to have solid coverage and a pretty smooth surface. The biggest advise I can give is not to get in a rush and have a good system for holding and manuevering the parts. Hands might work some of the time, but inevitably you'll get a nice engine with a fingerprint herold on it, and painted fingers. Let the paint dry between coats. Do all nooks and difficult places first, saving the broad sides for last. Use almost a dry dusting in those nooks to avoid runs.
thanks for the replys.
Doc, I'm not sure what you mean, I have a nail gun compessor, the kind with two hot dog looking tanks, a regulator valve and regularly produces 100+ psi (more than an air brush needs, right?). It is also load as heck in a small space. I'd planned to run a hose into the work area from the outside where its stored, maybe an on/off power switch out to it, and put an outlet, regulator, pressure valve and water trap, in the work room
OR
get a spare tire tank, pump it up and use that for the air supply, when the pressure guage tells me I'm getting down around 50# psi or so, go out and pump 'er back up, I'm told that shouldn't be all that often. With a regulator/water trap/pressure guage, I'd think I'd be okay. right?
however Doc it wasn't a cheap compressor, $250 or more several years ago. Just not sure its up for this kind of work, thus NuBee questions.
thanks again, I'll go with this and other information and get on with it.
Roypea
roypea - You should not need anymore than 15-30 psi...unless you want to paint from 20 feet away...
would that keep the paint off my fingers, NuBee remember.
Following the advice given so far, I look at the Badger 200 series and low and behold the gravity feed type shows up.
Why would lower air pressure not be a good thing? (been watching some Dream Plan Build videos in my spare time) While I'm learning which end the paint comes out of anyway. The biggest reason for me may be spilling paint, do the gravity feed type have caps, so when, not if, I lean over too far, well you get the idea.
thanks again.
thanks
Not having a shop air compressor handy, one would have to either (a) buy one or (b) go the tire route. Decent air compressors seem to cost far more than the airbrush.
roypea-Your nail gun compressor would work fine. Just make sure to add a pressure regulator and a filter if it doesn't have one. A tire isn't the best way to go since you can't adjust the pressure easily. They run out of air pretty quick too.
For point of calrification, I'm talking about a portable air can
that I'd fill with the compressor I already have, and take it into the workshop, hook it up to the airbrush and paint away. the compessor does its job of compressing air fine, but it is varwee varwee loud! at worst this one would go fsssssssssssssst.
Sorry for the confusion. I'd add the filter and the regulator to the tank, which may make it "not worth the bother"
I used one of those tanks for a while till I got a compressor. It "worked" but was a pain. You still can't regulate your pressure unless you add a regulator, you you start out running 100psi (or what ever) through your brush which can blow your seals and air line, and then you end up with 10 psi when it's running low on pressure. 5 gallons still runs out pretty quick. Hard to get consistant results with one.You can run some 1/2" PVC lines from your loud compressor to where you do your painting pretty cheap. You can get 100' of air hose for less than $40.http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=air+hose
I know what you mean about the LOUD compressor. Mine scares the crap out of me every time it kicks on!
I would believe that every paint cup, gravity or syphon, will have a vent hole on it to prevent a vacuum lock. A small pinhole vent "might" plug with paint if you tip the gun too far, resulting in the gun acting like it's out of paint.
As for using low air pressure, it's a tricky question. A whole lot depends upon the quality of the gun and tip, but in general it results in spitting. Nothing will irk you off more than scale 6inch spots on that almost perfect boxcar. 15 to 20psi is the norm for my airbrush, but others might want more or less. I can adjust the amount of paint independant from the air pressure to combat spitting and I would imagine all but the cheapest guns do as well.
Your compressor will be fine, some of the regulators they use on the cheaper compressors can be a pain at low pressures but it will work.