I'm building a shelf layout (inspired by Tom Johnson's Logansport & Northern Indiana) that is being built in my family room - so there won't be skirting underneath. My benchwork is 3/4"x12"x48" shelf boards, topped with 2" insulation foam that will be carved for terrain, and fronted by 1/8" masonite. The layout will be DCC.
For aesthetics it needs to be as clean under the benchwork. Does anyone have ideas about how to conceal the wiring? I'm half inclined to create a channel between the foam and the shelf board, but I'm concerned that once the foam is secured to the board, that's when the gremlins will come (and they will).
Thanks!
Geof
NECRfan I'm building a shelf layout (inspired by Tom Johnson's Logansport & Northern Indiana) that is being built in my family room - so there won't be skirting underneath. My benchwork is 3/4"x12"x48" shelf boards, topped with 2" insulation foam that will be carved for terrain, and fronted by 1/8" masonite. The layout will be DCC. For aesthetics it needs to be as clean under the benchwork. Does anyone have ideas about how to conceal the wiring? I'm half inclined to create a channel between the foam and the shelf board, but I'm concerned that once the foam is secured to the board, that's when the gremlins will come (and they will). Thanks! Geof
Let the bottom edge of the 1/8" Masonite drop below the edge of the shelf board - maybe 1" or so. Lay the wire in the corner between the Masonite and the shelf board on the under side of the shelf board.
This method can be adjusted in many ways to further conceal the wiring. To conceal wiring running back to front add a 1"x1" strip in the front corner between the fascia and shelf board on the underside of the shelf board. This will strengthen the fascia and shelf as well. Add strips of the 1x1 on the underside of the shelf board at the back between the shelf brackets. Now cut a 1/8" Masonite or plywood panel as a cover for the underside and the wiring. Use Velcro or magnets to hold cover in place. You may want to mount the cover even lower (use 1xX for mounting blocks and extend the fascia lower as necessary) to cover the shelf brackets rather than fitting the cover around them.
Slightly off topic, but my shelf line was a much bigger hit with the wife when I added a shelf over it and hinged a front cover to come down when the layout was not in use. That way the wife could use the room for other functions while the shelf line was still in the ugly construction phase. And the upper shelf gave me a book shelf for my train magazines and books, helped protect the layout from dust, gave a natural upper limit to the backdrop, and provided an easy place to mount layout lighting. A move prevented me from finishing the layout, but SWMBO was impressed enough to be willing for me to use a similar layout in the living room the next time around.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
If you are using DCC, why bother? The layout sounds relatively small and electrical delivery can be handled by rail and jumpers.
OR
Look into the stick-on conduit used in offices to run phone lines to the ceiling. It is essentially a small channel that sticks on with double sided tape and has fittings to make 90 degree angles or straight pieces that work like couplings to join to pieces of conduit.
Geof,
Cut a wiring channel in the front edge of the foam just above the wood shelf. Then attach the front fascia with screws. All of the wiring will be hidden but remain accessible by simply removing the fascia screws. You may have to cut small channels in the top of the foam for wire runs to the track and accesories but these can easily be filled in or covered by scenery. Wiring connections should only occur at the track or accessory and in the wiring channel.
Hornblower
I'd vote for the wiring channel along the front as well.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
hornblowerGeof, Cut a wiring channel in the front edge of the foam just above the wood shelf. Then attach the front fascia with screws. All of the wiring will be hidden but remain accessible by simply removing the fascia screws. You may have to cut small channels in the top of the foam for wire runs to the track and accesories but these can easily be filled in or covered by scenery. Wiring connections should only occur at the track or accessory and in the wiring channel.
That's a good idea.