rrinker You know that latex caulk you didn;t like for the tracklaying? It keeps the real water in the bathtub pretty wel, I suspect it will keep the Magic Water on the layout just as well. --Randy
You know that latex caulk you didn;t like for the tracklaying? It keeps the real water in the bathtub pretty wel, I suspect it will keep the Magic Water on the layout just as well.
--Randy
larak modeling clay might work. Karl
modeling clay might work.
Karl
Remember to use CLEAR caulk if the seal will be covered by the Magic Water. Modeling clay would have to be blended into the bottom of the river / lake so it would not be visible also.
Recently I did some test pours of Water Magic on our club layout and used duct tape to seal the opening. The duct tape held, but there was a pinhole somewhere on the back side of the facia and I had a small leak. It sealed itself before all the Water Magic drained away, but some got to the floor.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
loathar Duct tape?
Duct tape?
Of course. Duct tape can fix anything. Works really well as a temporary dam.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
loatharDuct tape?
Mark, I've poured tons of water features and only used plain old masking tape for a dam. I didn't try to paint the facia 'till the scenery was finished. Saves headaches. As Crandell mentioned put something under the pour area just in case. Envirotex Lite WILL find holes. I'd assume other products will also.
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
MisterBeasleyIf you want to move them, they come up easily, and if you accidentally bump one it will usually come off cleanly. If you'd used a stronger glue, you might end up with a pair of feet glued to your layout while the rest of the figure comes off.
Since I don't want to admit "dafeet", I guess I'll stick with tacky glue for figures & dams.
Either painters tape or tacky glue & styrene sounds groovy: I'm guessing that painters tape will not discolor the fascia while tacky glue might?
Thanks again for all the ideas!--Mark
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
I used a strip of styrene glued across the river bed. As I recall, I used Aileens Tacky Glue to hold it on.
Tacky Glue doesn't really dry hard. It stays slightly flexible for a long time. So, even though it took a week or more to finish the multiple pours, it was still easy to remove the styrene from the edge when I was done. The styrene did not adhere to the Envirotex I used for the water. I had no leakage problems, either.
Tacky Glue is available at craft stores. It's cheap, and seems to have a good long shelf life. I use it mostly to glue figures down to the layout. They usually stand up by themselves with the glue, and it sets quickly. (Some do need a bit of support for an hour or so.) They will stay in place if they don't get disturbed. If you want to move them, they come up easily, and if you accidentally bump one it will usually come off cleanly. If you'd used a stronger glue, you might end up with a pair of feet glued to your layout while the rest of the figure comes off.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Darn those simple solutions!
Tape sounds pretty good: is the green painter's tape same as the blue that I use to cover my track?And my tape will be so fresh you will have to slap it.
Off to finish the riverbed before sleep!
I also used green 1.25" painter's tape to act as a dam. It should be good, fresh tape that will adhere well to the side to be dammed. Press it into place everywhere thoroughly. Then, as insurance, place several layers of newspaper below the area dammed.
mcfunkeymonkeyThere's a slight lip there, and I've sealed the fascia / plywood joint with caulk. What's the next dam step?
Also depending on your "water" type be careful of foam. I had a river eat right through its not-painted-quite-good-enough foam riverbed.
Well, I added the fascia AFTER pouring the envirotex and WS water. I simply placed a sheet of waxed paper across the opening and screwed a spare piece of extruded foam across it. (Use fender washers and make it tight). I then poured the water and let it dry. Never a leak from several pours in multiple locations.
Caulk will work too and modeling clay might work.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
So I read somewhere else about people who put up a styrene dam where their magic water pour would flow up to the fascia cutout. How hold it there? tape on outside? what keeps the magic water (or whatever else from seeping down the crack?
Or should I slip the dam inside the fascia and pull it out when the water sets? What keeps the water from sticking to the styrene?
Is caulk part of the solution?
Here's a pict of my front:
There's a slight lip there, and I've sealed the fascia / plywood joint with caulk. What's the next dam step?
Thanks!--Mark