Thanks for all of the great info GUYS!!!!
thats a Great Idea!!!!!
This is being linked to the other "Double Deck" thread now running for easier cross-referencing at "General Discussion"...
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/149648.aspx
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
I was going to go double deck in much the same sort of space in HO.I read Tony's book and decided against it.
I thought there would be too much railway for one man to control and my carpentry ain't up to making a helix.
Steve
wedudler But now I run into a problem, one Tortoise makes trouble. I have to remove one segment from Westport. A bigger task.
But now I run into a problem, one Tortoise makes trouble. I have to remove one segment from Westport. A bigger task.
If one doesn't have front and bottom access to observe/repair/replace any turnout and its switch machine, he is asking for big trouble. You might get away with turnouts along the front edge if you have access from the side, as well as bottom access if there is under-track switch machine or linkage.
Mark
If it's just for staging, another way to go that would take up much less room would be a train elevator. An old car scissor jack would be a good starting point. Power it with an electric motor if you like and set a train length track (w/roadbed of course) on cabinet rollers, and you're in business!
that is excatly what I was planning on doing!!!!
There's a good book at Kalmbach, by Tony Koester,
Designing & Building Multi-Deck Model Railroads.
BTW, between staging and first level I've less space:
You see about 2'' for staging and 2'' for the boxes from my Westport. But you need good work. I've nearly zero derailments in this area.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
yes, all I want the lower level for is staging and the main layout is on top. I have looked at hidden staging but I don't think I have the room ,that is why I want to do the lower level staging.
trainfan504I willing to do it because I want to keep my staging below the main level so I don't have to worry about taking up layout space.
Completely different animal. If you are planning staging under the layout you only need 6-8" separation (since viewing/scenery isn't required).
Having had under layout hidden staging I would suggest looking at staging hidden behind a low backdrop/view block. It takes up more footprint, but it is waaaaaaay easier to work on and with.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Dave,
I have a slightly smaller room than trainfan; 11.5ft x 10.5ft. I am modelling in N-scale and will do a double deck. Looks like helix is the only way to go to get the 12 inch gain. I will have 2 helices at Algoa and at San Antonio end in my layout (see http://rosenberg-meet.blogspot.com/2009/03/operational-layout-open-for-comments.html)
I am planning to have doube tracks in the helices with 15" and 16.4" radius.
Btw, I would like to know what would be the ideal height for the upper level? I am Asian 5' 9" (175cm) and averagely my friends are around 165-170cm in height. The upper level must be comfortable for me and my friends when we run our sessions.
Thks
Jimmy
I willing to do it because I want to keep my staging below the main level so I don't have to worry about taking up layout space.
In 12x12 the major challenge will be finding enough room to get between the two levels. In most cases you need 12-14" between levels. At 2% grade that would require 600 inches of run to gain 12" of rise. Its 48 ft or 576" around your room, if you figure the track will average a foot from the wall thats only 528 in. So you will need a lap and a 1/4 of solid grade to make the transition.
If you put in a helix, a 24" radius helix is about 50" in diameter and has a footprint that will take up 12.25% of your floor space.
It can be done, you just have to be willing to accept the challenges to do it.
I have around 12x12 feet to do my ho layout in and I was wondering if any body could tell me both the pros and cons of double deck model railroads?