Has anyone else tried vinylbed (www.vinylbed.com)?? I've used it extensively - it's recycled rubber, glues well and holds track nails. It's available in several profiles as well as sheets for yards, etc. Easy to use on curves and cuts easily with a hobby knife. I've put it down on Styrofoam with Elmer's glue and had very good results - no release for more than a year on some sections. A bit more expensive than cork, but very easy to use, clean and very quiet.
I looked at topper tape too. It would be good to use if you can get it for the right price. It won't do rail height transitions unless you carefully cut it or sand it down, but having the adhesive on both sides is a real plus.
I haven't used it persoanlly YET! but I saw whee a guy used Topper tape (the foam self adheasive tape that goes between a pick up bed and the camper shell/topper/cap. It's a foam consistantcy and according to the layout builder all he had to do was press the track into the topper tape and it held perfectly being as it has adheasive on both sides.
MichaelWinicki I mostly used the rolled stuff on my layout-- a few hundred feet of it... And I couldn't have been more pleased. It went down fast, was easy to cut and even after gluing (I used Joann Fabrics & Crafts brand of white "tack" glue) it down, I was able to get it up relatively pain-free. It really reduces the noise level and it takes ballast well. I used a 600 grit sanding paper to gently round the edges, with the result being very good in my eyes.
I mostly used the rolled stuff on my layout-- a few hundred feet of it... And I couldn't have been more pleased.
It went down fast, was easy to cut and even after gluing (I used Joann Fabrics & Crafts brand of white "tack" glue) it down, I was able to get it up relatively pain-free.
It really reduces the noise level and it takes ballast well. I used a 600 grit sanding paper to gently round the edges, with the result being very good in my eyes.
It's funny how two people can use the exact same product and have completely opposite results.
This really needs a indepth look-see!!
Today has been great, found a possible solution for cheap good looking balast and now road bed too!!!!!
I've been using this rope caulk for a few years now and it's great! Dirt cheap too! (It's cheaper in the off season.)
(Click any pic to enlarge)
It comes in a roll like this........
And I use a wooden wall paper roller (the kind used to do the edges when hanging the paper) to smooth it and create trasitions in rail height easily.
It's flexible, and stays that way for many years, so it's quiet, and it's very easy to work with.
I can lay dozens of feet of it in just minutes, and since it's just a little tacky, it stays where I put it with no further adhesive. Ballast and scenery will hold it in place when all is said and done. I pull it apart lengthwise for N scale widths, for HO just use it straight from the package.
This was all layed in about ten minutes and is ready for track.
(This shows with the track installed, but it was part of that which went down in about ten minutes. Obviously, the track took longer. The cheap latex caulk I use to secure the track sticks to this stuff well too.)
I know this option wasn't really in your initial question, but I've used cork (which dries out and becomes hard, acting like a sounding board) and foam (not bad, but can't do transitions as easily as this, and it is more expensive) and found that this works better for me.
tsasala I've used both cork and the foam roadbed (WS). Initially I was very happy with the foam roadbed - it went down more quickly, was easy to work with, and seem to be quieter than cork. Howver, at this point I'm pretty disappointed. It's starting to peel up for me, especially on the curves. Perhaps it's because I used latex adhesive instead of something like liquid nails for projects. Nevertheless, now I have a good deal of track that is super elevated in the wrong direction -Tom
I've used both cork and the foam roadbed (WS). Initially I was very happy with the foam roadbed - it went down more quickly, was easy to work with, and seem to be quieter than cork. Howver, at this point I'm pretty disappointed. It's starting to peel up for me, especially on the curves. Perhaps it's because I used latex adhesive instead of something like liquid nails for projects. Nevertheless, now I have a good deal of track that is super elevated in the wrong direction
-Tom
I guess it gives your passengers that "Polar Express" kind of sensation.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
See my experiences with and thoughts about cork roadbed in the thread "Garage layout - foam or plywood".
Fred W
Use cork.http://www.nhshobbies.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=cork
If it IS more expensive, it's worth it...
I wasn't aware cork was more expensive, but I like the profile it gives for ballast better.
Something like this?
Are they worth the extra cost?
None of the above. Cork strips are best, in my opinion. Used them for a room-size N scale layout and was very happy with the results.
I'm building my first N scale layout and was wondering people's opinion on which of these products would work the best:
1. Seamless Roll
2. Foam Strips
3. or Foam Mats