These are perfect, just what I've been looking for. I new youguys would come threw. Now to figure out if I can duplicate them somehow on my own. like to try going it alone first before I buy any.
Thanks again for all your help
Don
Here's a real cheap solution. Wire coat hangers. Of course I had the idea so it's a tad tricky lol. It's pretty simple, just a wire coat hanger cut to proper length, which would differ from layout to layout so I can't say much more there, and the other end bent 90 degrees to make an L. Now comes the tricky part. Either a very thing coat hanger will need to be used, or mix of necking down the coat hanger and enlarging the turn outs hole will have to be done. A slot will need to be cut into the layout for the wire, but no wider than the wire and no longer than the throw of the turnouts switch bar (I don't know what that piece is called so I'm gonna just call it a switch bar cause it's easier to tell what I'm talking about). Straws glued to the underside of the layout will provide the support so the hanger wire isn't just hanging there. I didn't mean to type a pun there it's just the easiest way of saying it. And again a hole drilled in the fascia for the wire, no bigger than the wires diameter. Another 90 degree bend could be made for a handle, or a little fancer would be to borrow a thread tapper for bolts from a car guy and tap the end of the hanger wire so it has a thread like a screw, and just get like a solid ball of like wood or plastic and screw it on the hanger wire. Basically works off the lever action idea of a Blue Point turnout but won't cost you the 11 dollars over the net or the 13 bucks my LTS wants for it. That just seems a little expensive for a manual turn out. But they also sell a neat little plastic "finger thrower" that mounts right to the turn out and switch bar for a few bucks. They don't look that prototypical but it's probably what I'm going with. I will have a shels style layout so everything is a short reach away.
Google around for Humpyard Levers. They look cool, and people that use them are happy with their performance. I have all electrically-operated turnouts, myself, but if were doing manual control I would look at these.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
And another option is to simply mount a sub minature slide switch in the roadbed near the drawbar, drill a small hole in the switch handle and make a simple Z spring to connect it to the turnout throw bar.
This gives you electrical contacts and a good mechanical action. And can be easily thrown with a small screwdriver or pick commonly used for uncoupling as well.
I don't have a photo, but could fax a drawing to anyone interested.
Sheldon
I've used both, Tortoise and push-pull. Here's my How To.If you look at the previous sites you see my special way for Tortoise with low clearance.
And here's a special site.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
My manual turnout controls are electrical switches, mounted below subgrade, accessed through openings in the fascia. The linkage is monofilament fishing line (!!) connected to the points through an Anderson link (made from a bent paper clip passing through a vertical brass tube.) In the most-used position, the switch handle is away from the aisleway and the points are held against the stock rail by a weight hanging off the the far end of that monofilament. When the other route is desired, the switch is pulled toward the aisle.
Except for the lengths of fishing line across the underside of the subgrade, there is absolutely no complication. I mount my twin-coil machines in the same place, connected in the same way - and work on the electricals sitting on a chair in the aisleway. The only thing I do under the layout is drive a few small screweyes and tie one knot - lots less frustrating than trying to solder overhead while lying on one's back.
One advantage of the electrical switch (I have used both slide switches and toggles) is the presence of contacts which can be used to power a hot frog, control signals or positively kill a section of rail when the points are thrown against it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Some clients have had good luck with the Bluepoint turnout controls. These allow you to put a knob on the fascia and also provide switch contacts for power routing, signals, or indicators.
One can build a home-brew version more cheaply with a slideswitch and some R/C parts. This was covered recently (Sept 2008) in Model Railroader, although I thought that version might be slightly over-engineered vs. some other methods. For subscribers, there is a follow-up to that article with photos online.
ByronModel RR Blog
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Greetings,
Caboose Industries ground throws are what I use. Is that what you are looking for.
Bob
Modeling in N scale: Rock Island freight and passenger, with a touch of the following; Wabash Cannon Ball, CB&Q passenger, and ATSF freight and passenger. I played in Peoria (Heights).
R/C model airplane accessories work really well for manual controls that you can bring to the fascia board. I'm talking about pushrods ,clevises,bellcranks, Etc. I used to have a few of them on my layout.,took em out when I changed my track plan Now I need em again to reach places that have become inaccessable due to scenery,buildings or rolling stock. Normally I'm using caboose ground throws.BILL
Can't help you directly, but know what you are looking for. Go to the top of one of these pages and click on RESCOURCES, then click on Index of Magazines. You can search there for articles on "Manual Switch Control" or "Ground Throws" try different wording to see if you can find what you are looking for.
Also, I am sure there are a number of folks here that have experience with just what you are looking for, I have seen automotive throttle cables used too, but I'd think they'd be expensive unless you really needed a very flexible one for a unique spot.
Good luck,
I have remote switches on my main line and junction areas, however I have several industrial areas that I would like to install manual throw switches. Something about pulling knobs and throwing levers that just makes me feel more involved with my steam era railroad. So I'm looking to you guys or girls as the case may be to give me some ideas. I remember reading an artical a longtime ago about using piano wire and knobs to do this. If you know of a techneich or artical or link to one I would be greatful.
Thanks in advance for your help