I've not seen any problems with either ply(finish grades) or MDF having problems with the short period of time hydrocal would be damp. Both experience problems with prolonged and repeat drenchings, but I think most people avoid that. Both ply and MDF are fairly stable with humidity, MDF more so. I think the bigger problem is in benchwork when issues arise with humidity causing buckles.
yankee flyerI used 1/2" birch and like it for layout structer, but it still should be painted before you put wet hydracal on it. I painted mine with wall paint, still there was a seam that water got through and lifted the roadbed after putting lightweight hydracal over the plywood.
Not sure what your problem was here--I have built many layouts using plywood and Hydrocal without painting the plywood first and have never had a problem.
I know of a large double-deck N-scale layout with benchwork being constructed completely out of MDF. Benchwork has been in for about two years with no issues. However, when it came time to start my benchwork I used birch plywood because I don't want to find out any surprises the hard way. Jamie
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If you do use this you should wear a mask of some sort, the dust is very bad if breathed in
Steve
curdogexpressHas anyone used this for a layout bench and was it a good choice ?
Has anyone used this for a layout bench and was it a good choice ?
I used 1/2" birch and like it for layout structer, but it still should be painted before you put wet hydracal on it. I painted mine with wall paint, still there was a seam that water got through and lifted the roadbed after putting lightweight hydracal over the plywood. my
Have fun
Lee
I bought the heavier MDF shelf material from Home Depot for my layout, then I applied a clear sealing finish.
So far no signs of humidity problems ( Central Florida ) in two years.
Mark Gosdin
Keep in mind there are grades and multiple thicknesses of "MDF". The term has almost become generic like Kleenex and Xerox. Most cabinet shelving grades (used by cabinet makers such as KraftMaid, Thomasville, and others) are very strong and engineered for specific loads per sq ft. However, the stuff is heavy. Plywood is still one of the most versatile and no-brainer choices. Depending on the framing, etc. foam board might work without the need for a deck.
MDF isn't even good for making cheap furniture (flat pack stuff). Every TV stand or computer desk I had that was made of the stuff starting falling apart within a year. The humidity down here in Louisiana just kills it. I wouldn't even THINK of using it for layout benchwork. That's what a descent type of plywood is for. I prefer birch but have in the past used pine, cedar and oak.
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Welcome aboard!
Since you're new here, I'd suggest looking at 2-inch pink (or blue) construction foam sheets. 4 years ago, when I was a born-again model railroader, I picked this idea up from this forum, and I've been very happy with it.
The foam sheets are very light, and easy to cut and poke holes through. Yet, it is rigid and will not sag, or have humidity or thermal problems. It's not designed for climbing on, though, so if you must climb on top of your benchwork, then foam isn't for you.
Foam is generally cheaper than plywood if you're at Home Depot. Some of us like to dumpster-dive for this stuff at construction sites in the neighborhood. Others will find a piece at HD or Lowes with a bashed corner or a missing chunk, and negotiate the price down close to "free." (Yes, they will do this for you.)
It's something to consider, anyway.
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I have used it and have had no problems so far. My current layout is a combination of L-girder and box frames using 1"x4" pine and is covered with 3/4" MDF. I use cork roadbed that has been glued to the MDF with full strength Borden's yellow carpenters glue. I then covered the cork with a thinned coat of the glue.
I asked the same question when I was building this layout and got many responses ranging from NEVER use it to it's GREAT! I was concerned with the many comments about swelling when wet so I covered the upper portions that would be subjected to plaster & water with a coat of clear satin MinWax that I had on hand. I have been happy with the layout and have not had any problems with sagging, warping or delamination in over 14 years now. I have several areas with a span of 28-30" between supports and it has not sagged.
I live in the Houston area so humidity is a problem in many ways but it hasn't been of concern with my MDF.
Hope this helps you with your decision.
Roger Huber
I agree with the others MDF has it's purpos but if you were to use it for bench work you would need probably double the ammount of sub structure to prevent it from warping and buckling.
An interesting this is though. I was watching an Allen Keller Video last night either #12 or #44 about Howard Zane' Piermont Division. towards the end of the video in one of the how to sections he's demonstrating how to do a dirt road scene. He shows the structures he's going to plant etc. and all the involved techniques. He's gouging the board on whihc the structure is going to be placed to simulate ruts in the dirt road and it sure looked like a piece of MDF laminated to a piece of plywood. I don't see how you could gouge plywood the way he did to get the ruts effect. So maybe MDF does have it's place in the hobby.
Thanks alot guys! That is what I like about this site.
You will take a newbie down the right track.
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I strongly dislike this stuff.
It doesn't have the structural integrity of plywood and I have seen it begin to sag.
I use 1/2" plywood.
There are a lot of places to save moeny in this hobby, but benchwork isn't one of them.
I used birch plywood for my decking. I would be a little worried about how the MDF stands up to water used in various aspects of scenery making. I little more money spent up front gives me a good sense of security. My motto is better to be safe than sorry.
Mike B.