does anyone use the snap together track for building layouts? Do you use the standard methods for glueing it down? Do you need to use cork roadbed? How about ballasting?
The main "against" snap track for a layout is the number of joints between the tracks, causing potential electrical connection problems. I have a small layout using it, so far so good. Also, I think that the price per foot is less for flex track, only thing is you have to trim the ends when you have used it on a curve. Flex and snap can be mixed if it suits your situation.
As far as road bed, attaching it and ballasting, there is no difference.
Good luck,
I use some sections of it, mostly because I had some lying around. I prefer flex track, though, because I can make it fit my trackplan, rather than the other way around.
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I would highly recommend the use of flex track. Not only is it easy to use and install, using the Rail cutters I believe they are made by Xuron® makes it even quicker, but the smooth operation is crucial. I have read many posts on one of the major commandments of Model Railroading, which states wire every piece of track. So when it comes to wiring sectional track would be cumbersome. If you don’t wire every piece of tracks you may run into “dead” spots. Do not trust your rail joiners.
I use Homasote roadbed so I am not sure how this works with cork but I glued my track down with Locktite ® Power Grab. I have had great results with this. It holds the track well and I have found that if a mistake is made, with a little coaxing, I can remove the track, sand down the area, peel off some of the adhesive from the ties, and glue it back on the layout. It is a bit forgiving. However, as stated before, I have used this method on Homasote and not on Cork Roadbed.
I hope this helps you out with your decisions.
I'm using code 83 snap track on a small shelf layout. I glued it down directly to the pink foam base using adhesive caulk. I have also put cork roadbed under it before as well. I have not seen any operational difference between the two methods. Ballasting snap track is no different than ballasting any other track and I plan to do that on my current layout.
I do agree with the other posters about the number of joints being something of concern. Not only for the electrical problems that can arise, but even the tightest rail joiners can still leave the railheads slightly misaligned. This creates the potential for derailments. It takes a long time to solder all the joints in even a small snap track layout and file down the rough spots at rail joints. When I build my larger layout, I will be using flextrack.
I went with snap track on the small layout because I thought it would make getting a layout running faster and easier. It did. But at the cost of consistently reliable running. I have spent time tweaking the track that could have been used for scenery if I had went with flextrack.
Besides their snap-track, Atlas also makes sectional track that comes with plastic roadbed attached. I've experimented with their True-track and it works well. If you're thinking of using snap track you might want to look at this as an option.
http://www.atlasrr.com/Trackmisc/hotruetrack.htm
I use the snap track in combination with the flex track. I'm certainly not going to cut a section of flex track 6 inches long to use in a straight section. I'll buy the snap track, which is available in 3, 6 and 9 inch sections. I also keep the Snap Track Assortment on hand in both code 100 and 83, for those small pieces that are a real bear to cut from flex, like the 3/4 inch long section.
perhaps I mispoke, by snap track, i was referring to the track with the plastic roadbed attached. I have a Bachmann set with the e-z track snap together track. It has the black roadbed already attached. Have I totally confused everyone?
I made my son a Thomas the Tank Engine layout using Bachmann's EZ Track (nickle-silver track with gray roadbed attached). It takes a lot of abuse, and hasn't failed yet (3 years and counting). There are two real issues: the track geometry is very limited by what you can get in the EZ track.... but that may be a good thing for a first layout. The other, potentially bigger, problem is that the black roadbed is the cheapo stuff which uses steel rails, which, unfortunately, corrode with an oxide that is non-conductive.
You don't need roadbed with it (although you CAN use cork or foam under it to deaden sound). I put a light coat of fine ballast on it by painting the roadbed with glue and sprinkling on the ballast. It doesn't take much, but a little bit improves the appearance a lot. I'd also recommend that you paint your ties brown before ballasting. The black ties just look really bad.
FWIW, Snap Track is the brand name of Atlas's non-roadbed sectional track. That's what most of us think of when we hear that term.
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ok thanks for the help.
I agree, if you wish to use sectional track with built on roadbed, please get away from the EZ track. Instead go with the Kato Unitrack, you will be pleased with the quality and the electrical connectivity has never been a problem. Not much need for soldering with it. It's more expensive but well worth the price.
http://www.toytrainheaven.com/.sc/ms/cat/HO%20Track--Kato%20Track
colesdad perhaps I mispoke, by snap track, i was referring to the track with the plastic roadbed attached. I have a Bachmann set with the e-z track snap together track. It has the black roadbed already attached. Have I totally confused everyone?
Snap Track is actually an old trade name by Atlas, but I'm not sure they use it any more. They do have a couple Snap Switches listed, though. It used to be the industry standard (50's and 60's) and you got a box of it with most train sets for a 15 or 18 inch radius circle or with a couple straight sections for an oval. It was the code 100 track, with black plastic ties. The plastic track with roadbed attached is a fairly recent addition to the train set crowd.
It has since become a familiar name like Xerox has become a familiar name for photocopies, even if they don't come from a Xerox brand machine.
I like to use 18" radius Snap-track as needed. It is very easy to get the radius under 18", and the Snap-track pretty much removes the possibility. For larger radius turns, I'll use flextrack.
This turn is all 18" radius Snap-track. A bit of it was a little tighter in flex, but my Skytop wouldn't make it around. Now it goes around just fine.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Back when I was a kid I had a good sized layout that consisted entirely of snap track. I never had any electrical issues. Just luck? Is this more of an issue with DCC than DC? After 25 years out of the hobby I am starting to accumulate items needed to begin a new layout. I purchased quite a large lot of snap track and will be running DCC. Now I wonder if the track purchase was a mistake..The layout will be small- 7X4
Todd