This is the first time I will be using flex track on a layout. I want to solder five lengths together to lay through a large sweeping curve. The question I have is, as you bend the track and one rail slides you need to snap off the ties from the rail on that side to let the joiner pass and then snap them back on after the curve is made. Is this the way it is done or is snapping the ties on and off a no no? Also do you turn the track over and solder the joiner on the bottom of the rail or on the side? Thanks for all your help.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
You absolutely can not solder five lengths of flex track together for a curve in one shot! You have to lay the segments one at a time. Solder each segment to the previous one, bend it, glue it down and then trim the inside rail. You do not have to solder on the bittom - outer sides are fine.
Slowly building a layout since 2007!
Rxanand is correct. But keep in mind that unless your train room is the exception to the rule your benchwork will do some expanding and contracting. This will result in your nice your sweeping curves starting to look like snakes. Don't ask me how I know!
So after laying the track cut some gaps in the rails to accomodate the changes. I am now applying some CA under the rails at two adjacent ties, then cutting gaps in the rails between those ties with a rotary tool cut off disk.
Good luck!
Thanks for the input. What about trying to stagger the joints? Thanks
Everyone so far is right.
Here is the problem; Smooth flowing curves are best if the flex-track is soldered, but this also makes for stiff track that won't allow for expansion / contraction, if you have that type of problem. If you cut gaps after the fact, the rail will want to spring outboard, so you will need to spike it. If you glue it, you are back where you started with stiff track. (The rail will slide under the spikes if not glued.) With a long curve, you may be better off not soldering the rail joiners at all, and adding spikes on the outside of the rail joiners to help hold the curve.
The object is to make a smooth curve, no matter how you get the result.
However, I solder all my joints, curves and straight. Many disagree with this method. I use insulated rail joines for electrical gaps and these help with any expansion / contraction issues. My blocks are about 6 to 9 feet in length. If necessary, I will cut a gap with a cut-off disk and spike the rail ends on both sides of the cut. If you are using cork or WS foam roadbed, spikes won't work, although some will say spikes will hold in cork, they are not very reliable in cork. (That is why people who hand lay their track don't use cork.)
The problem of staggering the gaps or joints is that you may loose too many ties where the two sections of track will join. If you are going to solder the rail joiners and then cut gaps with a cut-off disk more toward the center of the sections, then you can stagger them for a better flow and reinforce at the rail ends with spikes.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
What works for me is soldering no more then three lengths at one time but I alternate sides. I do not solder both rail joiners first left then right then left and so on.I have found that by doing this I have eliminated the need to cut relieve joints in my rails, but if it works for them that's all that matters. I always solder on the outside of the rail only.After weathering the track the joint is barely noticeable If you solder on the inside it will interfere with the wheel flanges and like someone else said don't ask me how I know because I'll never admit it.
I use a resistance solders onl for soldering track. There is a much more concentration of the heat and it take much less time then a conventional iron. With a conventional iron I had a tendency to melt ties until I got the hang of it. You don't have to spend a fortune on a resistance solders. You can get one for around $200 well worht the investment in my O/P
I will suggest you get yourself some old track and practice your method, clean, flux and control are the secretes to soldering.