Pitshop:
The WS 4" risers are designed to be an optimum height that is arrived at by using the WS INCLINES. Whether 2,3, or 4%, the inclines all top off at 4" above your base 0 elevation base.
But do not panic: Your 4" risers will definitely allow for dramatic scenery changes. I used both the WS inclines (2%) and risers as a base for my own MR, and was able to stack them to over 18" in height before applying scenery around them. In fact, my entire 24x24' garage 'empire' is built with them. They're flexible, adaptable and extremely versatile. I swear by them.
If you think they're too high for you, and you didn't buy the inclines, I'd suggest that you get some WS inclines. As I said, they're available with either 2, 3 or 4% gradients, and they're exact and foolproof. That way, you can begin your trackage at 0" elevation on your base, and build as high as you want.
WS also offers the risers in 2" elevation, also. But don't toss the 4"'s, you'll be using them a lot if you decide to vary your grades.
If you want to see how I stacked the risers on my foam base, hit the "View My Layout" link under my signature. I've had them in place for over seven years without any problems at all.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
OOPS! So they are, Timothy. My apologies to the OP, although my advice still stands.
First it depends on your trackplan and where your layout is set. The 4" height is great if you have one track going under another one - although you probably could get by with a lower clearance height depending on your era. If you don't have any over-and-under tracks you could get by with less.
I've found 2" is a good compromise, it allows enough height for a road to duck under and for decent scenery shifts of height. The layout I'm building now uses shelf components that allow you to shift the height of the shelf by 1-1/2" increments, so my flat yard uses 1/2" risers and then when leaving the yard uses 2" risers with the shelf dropped 1-1/2".
However 4" will allow you to do some pretty dramatic changes in scenery elevation...if your layout is set in the mountains 4" might be the minimum riser you'd want. On my last layout one line was 7" above the benchwork!!
selector [snip] thus the appropriate incline atop them when they are oriented on your layout's centerline, or draw another canted line, but maybe with a lesser grade provided once they are oriented as they should be. [snip]
[snip] thus the appropriate incline atop them when they are oriented on your layout's centerline, or draw another canted line, but maybe with a lesser grade provided once they are oriented as they should be. [snip]
FYI, Crandell, Woodland Scenics' Risers are horizontal. They do not result in a grade or incline.
For a grade or incline, its the Woodland Scenics' Inclines you'd need. The two very different products are easily confused.
Skip,
I would go with option #3. My layout uses standard plywood subroadbed that is 3" above the 'L' Girder benchwork. Thi allows nice rivers below the bridges. Use scrap foam glued to the 4" risers for placing structures on. You will have a much better railroad with scenery above & below the trackage.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Your choice #3 would work fine, just raise the level of your scenery to match the track.
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
I have never seen or used these, but I think I have a good idea of what they look like. They are too high? Set them all on tape on their right/left sides, and draw your choice of a line down the length of all the risers on the tape. The choice is to make the line oriented so that a long cut down the line will leave you with level bottoms for the risers, and thus the appropriate incline atop them when they are oriented on your layout's centerline, or draw another canted line, but maybe with a lesser grade provided once they are oriented as they should be. The second way, you get another set as you indicated in your opening remarks, but at a different grade....may come in handy some time. then, with the top half cut off, it their top surface angle still fulfills your grade requirement, but now closer to the elevation you want, all you must do is level off the bottoms by rubbing them on a sanding block.
-Crandell