Updating my layout, I came across an option that I would like to incorporate into my layout. Interior lighting. It enhances realism, and looks great all around. Then came the real problem, how to install them. Does anybody have a great, cheap way to install interior lighting? Any new products that I could use?
When I do install the lights, what size should I use? Do I have to use a small fan to keep them from melting the styrene? Sound off
Peace
A search for lighting should bring up lots of topics.
Use a separate power supply for your layout lighting and other accessories. An old computer power supply can be modiifed for use or just use a wall transformer.
If light will shine through the exterior walls of a building either provide light blocking or paint the inside of the walls black. Make sure the lamps are not visible theough windows etc.
Use small bulbs and run them at 50-75% of full power to make them less bright and help them last longer. Resistors wired in series will work. LED's can be used too. Resistors will likely be needed with the LED's as they require very low voltage/current.
Some people have used fiber optics for interior lighting. It has some merit b ut is not perfect for all applications.
Regards,
Kevin
Here are a few links:
Power Source for Lighting Buildings
Mini Xmas Lights
Internal Structure Lights
Lighting for Dummies
I use mini Christmas lights. If you have a string of dead ones out in the garage, try clipping about 6 of them out in a series and try them on your accessory terminals on the power pack. The bulbs should be rated around 1.5 v (100 lights on a 110v circuit) So putting about 6 in a series will give you the equivalent light, and they'll last forever.
and you get 100 of them for about $4, as opposed to lights from the hobby store, where you get two for $4, they're 12v bulbs on a 12v circuit, so they don't last as long.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I use a couple of different types of lights. I got a bunch of these screw-in bulbs with sockets for about a quarter each from IHC a few years ago. I thought they were a deal, so I bought a bunch:
This shows a few important things about interior lighting. First, the bulb is mounted away from any plastic parts, so it doesn't need any ventilation. You're right, though, about the need for concern on this, but you don't have to be paranoid. A half-inch is plenty of clearance. Also, the bulb is mounted so that it can't be seen through the windows. A glaring bulb inside a building looks very wrong. Another thing is the large windows. They let you see into the building, and with lights inside you can tell if it's just an empty shell. The figures came from Preiser, but the wall, floor and shelf details were printed on my computer from pictures downloaded from the Web. I printed them on heavy card stock paper, but in a pinch, ordinary paper would do. From the outside, even with the big storefront windows, the cutouts suggest a complete interior.
These are 12 volt bulbs, and I run them at no more than 10 volts. This gives a warmer glow, rather than a bright light, and the bulbs will last much longer. A lot of my bulbs are 16-volt, and I run them at 10 volts, too.
I also have a large building with a lot of multi-pane windows. The interior is not detailed. To keep people from looking in and seeing nothing, I used Canopy Cement applied to each of the window panes. Canopy Cement is a clear glue used for model airplane cockpits. In these small windows, it dries clear and quite thick, and the surface is not flat. Although light can shine through these windows, it is very distorted and you can't really see the inside. So, I get away with no details, but the building is still illuminated.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Beasly,
I like the idea, but I was thinking a smaller light. That size would seem a little large for the buildings. I was also thinking about leaving some rooms dark, like in an office building, or a house. I was told to paint styrene black, and put it up. Does this work? Sound off