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ramping up

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feh
  • Member since
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ramping up
Posted by feh on Friday, January 30, 2009 1:05 PM

What's the best/easiest way to get the track from one elevation to another? Can I cut and shape foam to accomplish this, or do I need to buy a set of risers?

Thanks.

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Posted by lvanhen on Friday, January 30, 2009 1:29 PM

That depends on your budget and how much time you are willing to spend and your skill level.  Risers are the fastest and easiest, but the most expensive.  Cutting a slope on foam is more difficult, and requires a very steady and sure hand to cut properly - any "wiggles" in the cutting will result in track laying problems and probably uncoupling as the cars bounce over dips and bumps.  My My 2 cents

Lou V H Photo by John
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Posted by grizlump9 on Friday, January 30, 2009 1:32 PM

a few questions first,  what kind of base is your layout built on?  plywood over an open frame?   how much elevation do you need to gain?   how long a run to you have in which to achieve this rise? 

feh
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Posted by feh on Friday, January 30, 2009 1:41 PM

grizlump9

a few questions first,  what kind of base is your layout built on?  plywood over an open frame?   how much elevation do you need to gain?   how long a run to you have in which to achieve this rise? 

 

The base is 1" foam over wooden joists. It's an N-scale layout, and I only need to get high enough to be able to pass one train over another. From what I've read, that's about 2", and if I want to keep the grade under 3%, I'll need to do that over 66" of track. 

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Posted by abbieleibowitz on Friday, January 30, 2009 2:22 PM
As has been said, foam risers like those Woodland Scenics makes are the easiest way to elevate a ramp from one level to another. But foam can also be lifted like plywood using what's called a cookie cutter method. Are you familiar with this? You'd mark the ramp you want to elevate and cut along the track that goes up and over the lower level. Wooden risers fastened to your frame would support the ramp at the % grade incline you want. If you put a riser at the highest point, the foam will pretty much define a smooth grade from the "0" level to the 3" level you want. Depending on the stability of the foam ramp, you'd probably want to add a couple more risers to support the ramp. Another technique I've used is to replace the idea of wooden risers with graduated pieces of foam wedged under the ramp supported on the foam base. So, if the ramp is 2 inches wide, you'd cut piece of foam in a rectangle 3 inches wide and as high as you need it to be at that point in the ramp's elevation. Wedge the foam piece under the ramp and WA-LA, you've got a firm foundation for the elevated section. If you search on "Cookie Cutter" in these forums you'll find lots of additional information, although most of it involves plywood not foam. But the principles are the same. Good Luck! Abbie
Tags: Foam

Lefty

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  • From: Ulster Co. NY
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Posted by larak on Friday, January 30, 2009 10:51 PM

lvanhen

 Cutting a slope on foam is more difficult, and requires a very steady and sure hand to cut properly - any "wiggles" in the cutting will result in track laying problems and probably uncoupling as the cars bounce over dips and bumps.  My My 2 cents

 

Sure does, BUT! the factory gives you a smooth surface. Put the cut side down and the factory side up. No bumps or dips. You can embed the bottom side in plaster if you want to.

Cookie cutter is best though. It creates automatic vertical transitions.

Karl

 

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

feh
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Posted by feh on Saturday, January 31, 2009 7:28 AM

larak
Sure does, BUT! the factory gives you a smooth surface. Put the cut side down and the factory side up. No bumps or dips. You can embed the bottom side in plaster if you want to.

Cookie cutter is best though. It creates automatic vertical transitions.

Karl

 

 

 

But that would mean the ramp is completely straight...I've read you shouldn't do that, but should make it more of an "S" shape, with less grade at the start and finish. Is that not true?

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Posted by train_frk-0079 on Sunday, February 1, 2009 2:49 PM

I'm going to have to go with the foam risers.  If you only have to go up 2", you could buy a 1% grade, and make it to the top.  These risers are flexable if you have to turn them, and they are very lightweight, so they don't make your layout fall down.  No matter what, do not go freehand with it.  Any hobby shop should have these risers, and they aren't very expensive.

Peace

Peace and love is all this world needs!! Ryan
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Posted by Midnight Railroader on Sunday, February 1, 2009 8:09 PM

train_frk-0079
No matter what, do not go freehand with it. 

Why the heck not?

 

 

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