OK,Designing a shelf layout that has another scetion that attaches onto it to form an "L"
all designs so far require a curved section of track going over the lin where the two sections separate... am I asking for trouble? Or more specifically, am I asking for something that won't work at all?
This layout will only be taken apart on occaison. It will be in a guest room and will need to 'hide' when we have guests which is not very often.
It can be done, but near-perfect alignment of the modules during reassembly becomes that much more critical. You will probably want to use some sort of close tolerance pins or bolts to ensure realignment is as close to perfect as possible. And adjustable legs will probably be needed, too, to reduce alignment loads at the pins. Count on some time and a helper to get the layout set back up again. Most of the modular standards use straight "fitter" track pieces or rails across the module boundaries to reduce time and accuracy needed during modular layout setup. You are trading off setup and alignment time and fiddling for better design flexibility.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
+1 on the pins/bolts for alignment. If this is for your home layout, many outfits offer sectional track in many radii. One of these could be used for spanning the joint. Atlas offers 24" on HO code 83, and I think Shinohara offered up to 30", if not bigger. Also have used pieces of flextrack at module joints, where straight pieces have given problems. Our club has been using 3" snap track at module joints. Could go down to 2" pieces of rail, and have ties and ballast affixed to the modules, as the Free-Mo guys use.
Many options...
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
WaxonWaxovDesigning a shelf layout that has another scetion that attaches onto it to form an "L" all designs so far require a curved section of track going over the lin where the two sections separate... am I asking for trouble? Or more specifically, am I asking for something that won't work at all?
The problem with this arrangement of track going right up to the side of the module is that it is easy to get bumped, scrapped, or otherwise damaged when not assembled.
The curved track crossing a module joint is just to the left of the green box car at the far end of the module in the picture below.
This idea was passed on to me for a quality alignment... use standard door hinges. Less than $2.00 each. The pin makes it line up every time. You can see mine just under the shelf I added for an extra siding. I did hit the pin on the grinder to put in a taper for easy starting
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
ratledThis idea was passed on to me for a quality alignment... use standard door hinges. Less than $2.00 each. The pin makes it line up every time.
My to-be-buried staging yard throats have a dozen tracks that cross 'domino' boundaries on curves, some at really strange angles. Careful alignment, solid anchorage of ALL rail ends and beveling the rail ends a bit more than normal has resulted in trouble-free operation so far. I have considered adding guard rails, anchored on one end only but spanning the joint. So far, I haven't found it necessary - it's kind of a belt-and-suspenders approach.
My throat modules are designed for removal for troubleshooting and maintenance. One lifts up and slides out endways. The other drops down and can be removed from underneath the benchwork.
For domino alignment, I rely on heavy (for the materials) bolts and nuts. Framework is all steel studs.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with removable hidden yard throats)
Texas ZepherI have a set of modules with this exact situation. I joined the modules together. laid the track. Put extra secure fasteners around the track going over the joint, and then just cut the rails right along the module edge.
Yea, that was the way I was thinking.
thanks to all