I wonder if ties glued to sculptamold would hold spikes?
In the early days of hand laying track, the ties were stained and glued to the roadbed surface. Then the ballast was added. Then the track was spiked down. The cured ballast helped to keep the ties from splitting.
What most modelers do is ask the question, like you did, and then try them to find a technique that works, and stick wit it. You have a good start here.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
you're bound to have some tie splitting/crushing no matter what you do... it just takes practice, unless you're already quite adept at handlaying and have been doing it for a while already.
I use ME's micro spikes and small, chisel-head spikes (i think thats what they're called), the ones that aren't sharp at the end, with the flat head. I've used these with great success on Central Valley's plastic tie-strips.
The micro spikes, however, take a ton of finesse and patience to work with. I've juuust about gotten my technique down for using them, although i still have some work to do in terms of consistency.
What you might want to try doing is sort of prepping the tie before you fully spike it... like, press the spike into the tie to create a little indentation, and THEN go back and insert it all the way. That may help.
There are several types of spikes and several types of ties.
I use ME small spikes and Kappler ties. They are full tie thickness, 8'6" long. I do not predrill and rarely have problems with splitting.
ME also sells a small head cut spike (rectangular cross section). I find these difficult to drive, they tend to split the ties I use. I have also had a lot of problems with the ME micro spikes, they tend to bend when driven.
Some ties have a thinner cross section than others (low profile ties) and they may be splitting more. I also glue my ties to the Homasote with white glue.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I cut my own ties from northeastern basswood, and use micro engineering spikes. After staining i locate and guage the rails then put a drop of CA+ on the tie (where i'm going to put the spikes of course) and let it soak in before spiking. I've had very few splits since i started this.
Generally well glued ties and staining should stop any splitting. But the use of a heavy spike will tend to split occasionally. We use the ME spikes and don't seem to have trouble. The ties are well glued to 1/4" pine roadbed on ply or wood spline. Maybe the coats of Old English of oil stains keep the ties pliable and less splitting, don't know for sure.
One industrial area that was done ended up with the ply surface (birch I believe) very hard and most of the thinner ME spikes would bend before seating the head on the flange. A grueling job of predrilling was needed. Some tried heavier spikes and the ties were splitting like crazy.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Try cutting or filing the points off the spikes. That way they do a crushing drive into the ties rather than wedging their way in.
Use smaller spikes.
I had the same problem until I switched. Micro-Engineering makes small ones as does, I think, Walthers.
Honestly, if I had to predrill every hole, I wouldn't bother with handlaying at all.
pre drill the spike holes with a dremel tool or pin vise.
grizlump
Hey,
Needing some help here, I am wanting to try my hand at hand laying and I have been using campbell and ME ties and everytime I put a spike in they split...am I doing something wrong here, what is one to do to stop the tie from splitting? am I to use differnt ties or something...
I need help please
Nathan
Cambridge, Ont
B & B Railways - "Connecting the North, one rail at a time"