I do not see the need for hand laying track as I prefer smooth operation to good looks. In that light, is it concevable to build the turnouts with extended stock rails (beyond the usual ends of the turnout) and thread these rails into a section of flex? Or is it just as simple to use another method?
73
Bruce in the Peg
Fast track jigs allow the user to make the stock rail whatever length they desire. Keeping in mind track only comes so long. Till they start making scale welded rail...
Only downside to hand laid is the lack of tie plates.
My layout 2 layouts ago had handlaid switches and flextrack between. Just depends if you want to handlay the switches or not.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Hi, Bruce. Yes, that would work. The plastic ties will do both the isolating and the spacing. The only thing that I haven't figured out, in view of the question, is how would you get the one rail into the non-sliding side of flextrack? Or perhaps I haven't understood.
As the person said, earlier, the jigs are open-ended, so you can use stock rails and frog rails as long as you please.
-Crandell
Blind BruceI do not see the need for hand laying track as I prefer smooth operation to good looks.
Why do you assume handlaid track doesn't operate as well as manufactured track?
If it didn't, why would anyone bother doing it?
You might want to take a look at Central Valley http://www.cvmw.com/cvt/index.htm I haven't used them (they only do HO), but others really like them. They have tie strips among other products.
Enjoy
Paul
Those CVT tie strips sure look like a good solution to me. I wanted to order a sample pack of six pieces for evaluation BUT...... 8 bucks for the samples and 22 bucks for S&H!!! Drat.
Is there a dealer in Canada?
Soooo, what can you people that use these tell me about them?
If I use them with Fast trax jigs, what ties do I use for the turnouts etc.?
FastTracks use PC board ties to which you sodler the rail. Take a look at their site, they have TONS of pictures and videos showing you how to do it, step by step.
I know plenty will say you don't need all that stuff, just files and rail and a sodlering irona nd you can make them without expensive fixtures and so forth. Well, maybe I can, but I've read and re-read countless articles on handlaying turnouts over the years and it sure doesn't seem as easy as they say. I first saw Fastracks at the National Train Show a couple of years ago, they were making turnouts while talking to the people and demonstrating it all - I stood there for the entire process and watched it, and took home their CD with the videos on it, and I am pretty sure I can do it their way - so that is the way I am going to proceed. I was also planning to handlay the rest of the track using the same method, although minus the fixture - I'm pretty sure I can manage to put a pair of rails down the proper distances apart just using a bunch of track gauges to align it. Especially with the solder to PC tie method.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Blind Bruce I do not see the need for hand laying track as I prefer smooth operation to good looks. In that light, is it concevable to build the turnouts with extended stock rails (beyond the usual ends of the turnout) and thread these rails into a section of flex? Or is it just as simple to use another method?
That is exactly the method I use to lay specialwork in place. I have even been known to cut the ties out of the middle of a section of flex, spread the rails and build a turnout (previously planned but temporarily bypassed) on wood ties laid in the gap between plastic ties.
The big advantage is that rail joints (and potential kinks) can be limited to those needed for electrical isolation or at the ends of full 3 foot or 1 meter rail lengths. It is also easy to stagger them - another kink preventer.
If you think I have a lot of turnouts on curves, you got it in one!
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex track with hand-laid specialwork)
rrinker I know plenty will say you don't need all that stuff, just files and rail and a sodlering irona nd you can make them without expensive fixtures and so forth. Well, maybe I can, but I've read and re-read countless articles on handlaying turnouts over the years and it sure doesn't seem as easy as they say.
Not at first, but I assure you, anyone with patience can learn and, as they say, the more you make, the faster they go.
I can't afford the FasTracks products, and besides, I wanted to lay my TOs in place, so I got out the rail, spikes, mill file, dremel, and soldering iron and went to work. By my third TO, I was able to troubleshoot as I went, which really helps.
I'd like to buy the point-form tool they offer, since it seems to really speed up the process, but I haven't been able to justify it ($40 or so) when I can make points with a big ol' file.
By the way, I don't use PC ties, just wood ties with four spikes per tie so they look good and hold up to use.
i'm going to shoot myself now...
i just had a huge post typed out, and clicked "post" and then realized my internet wasnt connected, and lost everything.....
ARRRGHHHHHHHHH
i'll be back later. it was a long diatribe on Proto87 Stores turnouts (which use the Central Valley tiestrips) and Fast Tracks turnouts.
but anyway the main thing was that dude, email Jack from CV and tell him you've got some questions/reservations about the tie-strips, like wondering if they're as easy to paint and spike as wooden ties. He'll more than likely send you a sample package of one turnout strip, and one piece of each of the 3 versions of plain track tie-strips that he has.
I got that idea from Loathar, who emailed Jack and got a sample. I then did it myself, and got a package. So its worth a shot.
i'm gonna go work on my layout now
Its possible that the post is stored somewhere in the maze of temp internet and cookie files.
Days long gone before the cool editer features within the html, I used word to create posts and pasted them within the text box. But websites now offer edit features and quick buttns on many forums now.
You may want to type long posts in that fashion. You never know when the internet will fad away....
haha thats a really good idea
Midnight Railroader rrinker I know plenty will say you don't need all that stuff, just files and rail and a sodlering irona nd you can make them without expensive fixtures and so forth. Well, maybe I can, but I've read and re-read countless articles on handlaying turnouts over the years and it sure doesn't seem as easy as they say. Not at first, but I assure you, anyone with patience can learn and, as they say, the more you make, the faster they go. I can't afford the FasTracks products, and besides, I wanted to lay my TOs in place, so I got out the rail, spikes, mill file, dremel, and soldering iron and went to work. By my third TO, I was able to troubleshoot as I went, which really helps. I'd like to buy the point-form tool they offer, since it seems to really speed up the process, but I haven't been able to justify it ($40 or so) when I can make points with a big ol' file. By the way, I don't use PC ties, just wood ties with four spikes per tie so they look good and hold up to use.
I will likely eventually try some - if I only need a couple of turnouts in a particular size, the complete Fastracks set does not make sense. I'll probably only buy the one for my main turnout size, where the quantity needed will easily make up the tooling cost. My biggest issue is getting the frog points even, and proper taper on the point rails. The PointForm tool is highly practical as it works for several rail codes and a huge range of turnout sizes - one tool that would get spread across just about any size I would ever need, even without an assembly fixture. The frog tool is naturally more specialized, specific size only, but probably worth it to make even, sharp frogs. I don't doubt that once I had the component pieces, I could probably build a decent working turnout with an accurate paper template and some track gauges. It's makign the points and especially the frog that has me wondering. I've seen probably dozens of ways to make frogs, some where the very point is actually only in one rail, and the other is tapered to fit, some that get filled with solder, some where you scribe then bend the rail and file it to a sharp point - information overload perhaps.