Hi!
I'm taking down an existing layout built in 1993 and will replace it with a new - and improved one. I'm 64 and trying real hard not to be set in my ways - even converting to DCC for the new layout.
On the former layout, which was a plywood base, I covered the flat areas with 1/8 inch sheet cork. This worked very well for yard and terminal trackage, as well as a base for structures and groundcover.
On the new layout, I am fairly certain I'll use the 1/8 cork for "non-mainline" trackbed. But, I'm wondering if there is something better to use for the other areas. Soooo, I'm wondering what you all have done on your layout, and what you think about it.
Thank you,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I use cork or homasote for roadbed, not as a scenery base.
The flat areas, I cover with foam or screenwire with newspaper holding it up, then plaster-and-paper towels.
I use 1" pink foam insulating panels, covered with about 1/4" of sculptamold for texture and to erase that unnatural "completely flat" look. You can build your whole layout on top of these if you like -- the tongue and groove construction makes them easy to link, and you only need supports about every 2' or so on your benchwork.
If that's too thick for you, you can use artist's "foam core", which is available at art and office supply stores.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
I will still use a plywood base, with major grades done "ala cookie cutter". If you use plywood, what do you put on top of it?
If it's an area that you need to be flat, such as for a town or industry, simply add the buildings and scenic material as appropriate, painting those areas that require it. For elevated areas, I simply glued a few blocks of scrap wood to the plywood, then stapled aluminum window screen in place and covered it with patching plaster. Most of my layout is open grid - I use the screen/plaster where there are no buildings or track, and, generally, place suitably-sized pieces of plywood where I want to have buildings.
Here, the track and larger structures are on plywood, while the scenery to either side is screen/plaster:
And here, the track and some of the buildings are on plywood, while the rest are sitting atop the plaster - I usually apply it thick enough that it can be carved to allow the buildings to sit level:
Wayne
I used Woodland Scenics risers and foam roadbed. If I was doing it over I would use something harder.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I use double thickness corrugated cardboard from appliance boxes for flatish areas which do not have to support a great deal of weight. One side has a glossy paper finish which is somewhat water resistant, when used glossy side "up" there is little to no significant warpage. I hot glue the edges, and use a skim of sculptamold or substitute so its not too flat. I will sometimes paint the cardboard if its in a high traffic area. I use woodland scenics products for final finish. It is cheap... like free, lightweight, easy to cut to fit, and if you need to make changes thats easy too. i have some photos posted at Railfan.net model railroading under scratchbuilding a textile mill complex.
mobilman44 I will still use a plywood base, with major grades done "ala cookie cutter". If you use plywood, what do you put on top of it? Mobilman44
God's gift to model railroaders: Sculptamold. Light, strong, about an hour working time, plus it's easily shaped with a putty knife or artists spatula when wet, and easy to carve or sand when dry. It's only drawback is that if you slop it on thickly, it can take a while (several days) to dry.
On my under-construction layout, which is set in a mountainous region, about the only area which will even approach flat will be in the vicinity of my main station, and most of the flat land will have track or railroad structures on it.
I'm planning to use foam panels as scenery base, installed at whatever angle to horizontal is appropriate for the specific scene. All will be supported directly from the benchwork, and just blended into the roadbed with the final surface treatment. Exactly how scenery will be finished is still subject to discussion and experimentation. Large parts of my mountains will have to be removable to allow access to hidden trackage - (scale) miles of hidden trackage.
I use fan-fold underlayment instead of cork, since cork has a limited lifespan in the Dessicated Desert and this is my 'last in this lifetime' layout.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck,
I am very much aware of the "last layout in this lifetime" situation, and have decided to have as open a mind to new fangled trends and ideas as I can. I confess I've had / have predudices against certain materials and processes and have overcome a few - with going to DCC the biggest.
Mobilman44 - modeling the ATSF (and a minor in the IC) during a very long transition period.
paint
Ground goop.
Larry
http://www.youtube.com/user/ClinchValleySD40
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52481330@N05/
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/page/1/ppuser/8745/sl/c
If you're using a flat plywood base, why not use Woodland Scenics risers and inclines instead of going thru all the hassle of "cookie cutting" the plywood?? It's nice not have to cut up the plywood, plus elevating all the track a little makes it much easier to add scenery below the tracks like ponds, streams etc.
I use a combination of foam and Sculptamold to cover the plywood. In the new around-the-room layout I am building right now, my yard is build right over cork on plywood. But several other sections are built on foam over plywood so I can cut down into the foam for rivers and low areas. Just having ground rising and falling even 1/2" makes a huge improvement. My layout ranges in elevation from -6" to +8" from track level. Track is level except for a 4% grade mine and logging branch with a Shay doing the work.