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benchwork - wood glue required?

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feh
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benchwork - wood glue required?
Posted by feh on Monday, January 12, 2009 1:55 PM

Hello again folks!

So, my son and I built a 4'x8' table, using 1x4 for the perimiter, and 1x3 joists. The base of the layout will be foam, so the whole thing is quite light.

Anyway, I used 1 5/8" drywall screws to secure everything, but I didn't use wood glue. 

Question - should I take it apart and re-assemble using wood glue, or will the drywall screws be sufficient?

Thanks.

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Posted by Midnight Railroader on Monday, January 12, 2009 2:22 PM

The screws will do the job.

Having said that, I almost always use both screws and glue.

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Posted by skagitrailbird on Monday, January 12, 2009 2:38 PM

 My opinion is that screws and glue is overkill on model railroad benchwork...unless you think someone will frequently be climbing and dancing on it.  Plus, we almost always want to disassemble them in a few yesrs (either to move to a new location or build a better empire).  If you use glue disassembly will be much more difficult and some of the lumber will have to be scrapped.

Roger Johnson

Roger Johnson
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Posted by tomikawaTT on Monday, January 12, 2009 2:52 PM

skagitrailbird

 My opinion is that screws and glue is overkill on model railroad benchwork...unless you think someone will frequently be climbing and dancing on it.  Plus, we almost always want to disassemble them in a few yesrs (either to move to a new location or build a better empire).  If you use glue disassembly will be much more difficult and some of the lumber will have to be scrapped.

Roger Johnson

Second the motion, with one caveat.

If you use risers from your benchwork members to support cookie-cut plywood, you can use white glue to secure the top of the riser to the underside of the plywood.  That way, if you ever have to move the riser, the glue will snap right off, probably without damage to the plywood.

I, personally, don't use glue of any kind on my benchwork - it's all steel.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

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Posted by CSXDixieLine on Monday, January 12, 2009 5:53 PM

Midnight Railroader

The screws will do the job.

Same here.

Midnight Railroader

Having said that, I almost always use both screws and glue.

Same here. Then again, I am the King of Overkill. Smile,Wink, & Grin  Jamie

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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Monday, January 12, 2009 10:40 PM

 End grain to side grain glue joints are not very strong, although you can make them stronger with pre gluing.  But the screws are probably sufficient since most of the stress will be downward and not outward.  Personally, I don't use drywall screws for that joint I use 1 3/4" #10 screws, which I think are a little better.  But the dry wall screws should work okay as long as you aren't planning to walk on the joists.

Enjoy

Paul. 

If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, January 12, 2009 10:48 PM

CSXDixieLine

Midnight Railroader

The screws will do the job.

Same here.

Midnight Railroader

Having said that, I almost always use both screws and glue.

Same here. Then again, I am the King of Overkill. Smile,Wink, & Grin  Jamie

Jamie, if you're the king of overkill, then I'm the Duke of same.

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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:02 AM

 I glue and screw mine, but I also use lightweight construction, no 2x4's here. Screws will hold just fine though.

                                                          --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by mobilman44 on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 10:32 AM

HI!

Assuming you have a well built table with gussets or angled supports, etc., wood glue is not necessary.  In fact, it could  mess up the wood should you want to take the layout down and use the wood for a bigger layout.

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by tinman1 on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 1:13 PM

Gluing all the joints isn't all that necessary unless you are getting into a big complicated layout. Tight square cuts are better and drilling the hole on the board the screw goes through helps the screw to pull the second piece tight without the threats tearing out the grain. Another good bet is to make sure and seal all the end grains. You can do this by brush, rag, or by just dipping it in. Any penetrating sealers or clearcoats will do and paint will too, but I go for oil based paint. This will help keep the benchwork stable through the seasons of change and help alot when wood is in proximity to concrete walls. If the wood is to touch the concrete then I would recommend a full paintjob with a good sealer. I would stay away from any treated lumber as it is prone for expanding and contracting and is corrosive to most fastners. 

Tom "dust is not weathering"
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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 2:04 PM

 Screws should be enough to hold a light framework. My layout is big heavy butt-joint construction bolted to the walls on three sides and has four legs under it. I can walk on it and all that's holding it together is 3 inch screws.

Running Bear, Sundown, Louisiana
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Posted by dale8chevyss on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:23 PM

 I agree with 12AM RR'er- I usually use both screws and wood glue when securing something like benchwork and I want it to stay together permanetly, but drywall screws usually hold just fine.  The glue is an added assurance. 

Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.

 Daniel G.

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Posted by Kenfolk on Tuesday, January 13, 2009 7:48 PM
Screws are all that is required. And they are removable should you wish to change something later.

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Posted by mobilman44 on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:02 AM

Hi again!

I've been doing layout demo for most of the day, and I can tell you for sure that the combination of sheetrock/deck screws and wood glue is a bear to take down "neatly and easily"! 

The layout was built in the early 90s and the mountain supports were wood scraps attached with screws &  construction glue.  Vinyl screening (thank goodness not metal) was stapled for the basic forms, and covered with plaster soaked paper towels covered with plaster and rock molds and ground cover.  I do believe a real world jeep or atv could have been supported by my mountains.

Ummmm, I might consider some of those new fangled methods on the new layout.......... nahhhhhh!

Enjoy,

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by chateauricher on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:30 AM

For my layout, I used 1x3's glued-and-screwed (2-1/2" screws, counter-sunk) built in sections.  Each section of my layout is between 4 and 5 ft long.  Where two sections join, I used only screws (no glue) in case I ever decide to dismantle the layout in order to move.

Timothy The gods must love stupid people; they sure made a lot. The only insanity I suffer from is yours. Some people are so stupid, only surgery can get an idea in their heads.
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Posted by ChrisNH on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:01 PM

 I would not recommend glue. Using screws allows easy modification and adjustment or disassembly and reuse as required. The only exception to that is the construction of L-girders which I glue so they provide the proper strength.

Chris

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Posted by E-L man tom on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:22 PM

I have used L-girder construction on my last two layouts for benchwork. The only thing that I use glue on are the actual construction of the L-girders themselves. The rest is secured with drywall screws - - quite sturdy!

Tom Modeling the free-lanced Toledo Erie Central switching layout.

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