jxtrrx I'm no expert. Can only tell you my experience. I used very scant amounts of "Clear Adhesive Caulk" and then had to dismantle layout. All cork roadbed ruined. Much track also ruined. Perhaps when Phillip is talking about it peeling off it's the difference between "Caulk" and "Adhesive Caulk."
I'm no expert. Can only tell you my experience.
I used very scant amounts of "Clear Adhesive Caulk" and then had to dismantle layout. All cork roadbed ruined. Much track also ruined. Perhaps when Phillip is talking about it peeling off it's the difference between "Caulk" and "Adhesive Caulk."
How did you go about removing the track? I changed my mind after putting in a turnout and siding and ended up tearing ti out after the fact, the turnout I reused and I used the piece of flex track that was the siding to fill in where the turnout was removed - after cutting it to size naturally. I use the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and that was pretty much unusable after pulling it up. I'm pretty sure if I used soemthign more substantial like cork I could have removed and possibly reused that as well.
All caulk is adhesive - contruction adhesives are much more adhesive than plain caulk. I didn't look very hard, only at prices and picked the cheapest stuff Home Depot had, so I haven't actually noticed if there's different stuff that actually says "adhesive caulk". Mine was the clear type, and all it says on it is "latex caulk", the brand is Polyseam and it was 20 or 30 cents cheaper than the DAP brand.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I use Titebond yellow glue mixed with wet water for everything -- roadbed, track, and ballast. I'm getting ready to dismantle my present layout [beginning next Monday] and I plan to reuse the track on my new layout. Just wet, wait, and peel with a putty knife. I've never seen anyone salvage track glued down with caulk.
rrinker saronaterry I use those "free" credit cards you get in the mail to spread caulk for roadbed and track.Seems like I get a never ending supply! Good idea. Then you don't even have to clean up when you quit for the night, just throw the fake card in the trash and use a new one next time. --Randy
saronaterry I use those "free" credit cards you get in the mail to spread caulk for roadbed and track.Seems like I get a never ending supply!
I use those "free" credit cards you get in the mail to spread caulk for roadbed and track.Seems like I get a never ending supply!
Good idea. Then you don't even have to clean up when you quit for the night, just throw the fake card in the trash and use a new one next time.
Actually, the caulk will peel off the credit card (with a little effort) after it cures overnight. The same is true of the plastic ties under Atlas flex track.
I've been using caulk for three years now, with no issues, in a garage where the annual temperature range is over 100 degrees(F) and the one-day swing can easily exceed 50 degrees. If you need to lift caulked-down track, just slide a drywall knife under it and pry (GENTLY!!!) upward.
While I use clear (or whatever color is cheapest the day I shop for it) caulk under the roadbed, I prefer grey caulk for securing flex track. That way, if there are holidays in the ballast they won't be obvious.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Randy nailed it! Cut the tip of the caulk tube small and use a putty knife to spread it thin. If it gushes up beween the ties, you've got it too thick.
The thing with glues is that they all dry hard. Yes, you can soften them with water to take up the tracks if you need to, but what a mess! And water and scenery don't mix all that well, never mind electrcity. And once the glue does dry, that fact that it's hard means that it transmits noise.
With caulk (NOT adhesive!), if you want to take up the rails after it's dry, you just slip a putty knife under the rails and gently pry up. The tracks come right up with no damage at all. You simply rub your fingers across the bottoms of the track to remove any reminants (which come right off, no problem). When I dismantled my old layout I reused 99% of the track. I took up all the track on my double level 9x9 walkin layout in an afternoon. Also, caulk never dries hard, so it never transmits sound.
Rubber cement has good possibilities as it's very similar to caulk in it's properties. How is it on cost though? Is it cheaper then caulk, or is there some other advantage to using it over caulk?
I have always used carpet tacks. They either come in black or silver. Never had a problem with them. They hold very well, and theres no mess to clean up.
Plus I don't use cork road bed, I use the foam. I don't know how good the would hold with the cork.
"Rust, whats not to love?"
I use yellow glue for both gluing the track to my WS Trackbed and the WS Trackbed to foam or wood. It works well, is easy to work with and comes up with a putty knife, without destroying the track.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
I used caulk for both the roadbed to foam and track to roadbed. I was a bit skeptical so I build a snall 2x4 test section first - after that I was no longer skeptical and proceeded to build the entire 8x12 layout using caulk. It goes very quickly once you have lines marked and know where you are going to locate the roadbed. One advantage over more liquid glues like Elmer's is that the caulk is tacky and so holds things in palce almost isntantly. But not so sticky that you can't walk around the end and eyeball the track and make sure it's straight and so forth - you have about a half hour of workign time. Some simple push pins will hold things in place while the caulk sets up.
As for messy - not in the least. It migth be if you use way too much. Those lines on the tube nozzle where you are supposed to cut it? Those are for things like caulking your windows and doors. A 1/4" bead is WAY too big for the purposes of fastening track and roadbed. You need ot make only a TINY opening - think small enough that the only way to pierce the inner foil seal is to stick a piece of #14 wire int he hole you made - THAT small. If you look at the old pictures on my web site from the old layout - that entire 8x12 double track layout with yard and sidings consumed exactly ONE tube of caulk for all the track and roadbed. That's how little you use. Another guide - even the clear caulk comes out of the tube white, it turns clear as it dries (handy for knowing truly when it has fully set). If you've penciled in a centerline for laying the roadbed - when you spread out the caulk you should still be able to CLEARLY see the pencil lines. If caulk is oozing out from under the roadbed, or oozing up to the level of the ties on the track, you're using far too much.
As in everything there are pros and cons to all methods. I use adhesive caulk for both roadbed and rails after years of using white glue. The advantage of adhesive caulk is its high quality of adherence. White glue will loosen when subjected to water as in ballasting or scenicing. This is a plus if you ever want to loosen or remove a section of track (when caulk dries thouroughly, you pretty much destroy the track upon removal, even though I have had somesuccess by being very slow and careful).
If you don't intend to ballast immediately, the caulk holds much better than white glue. Yellow glue is more water resistant but I see no advantage over caulk. I do use yellow glue for short sections of roadbed if I run out of caulk.
Read what the others will say and do what suits your needs and objectives.
Good luck, Ron K.
I used Elmers Yellow construction glue to put my cork to the foam. - I didn't like the caulk for this. I found it was too messy for me & used too much. I also like the extra working time the glue gave me. I did have to make some changes to the roadbed and found that glued down stuff came up easy enough with no damage.
I used gray caulk for the track. The key here was use as little as possible - just a thin film. The flexable Atlas track stayed in place w/out moving (although I did put tacks in while it dried). I wouldn't do it any other way.
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
It seems the preferred method for securing roadbed to the base (in my case, pink foam), and track to the roadbed is clear caulk.
However, I've been doing some reading, and it seems others are using rubber cement or white (Elmer's) glue for the same purpose.
All else being equal, I'd prefer glue to caulk, assuming it doesn't have any disadvantages. Primarily, I want to make sure I can lift the roadbed or track without destroying anything.
Are rubber cement or white glue valid alternatives? Thanks.