I built this simple rigid-frame benchwork. It's a 5x12 foot table, with casters on the legs so it can be moved around the room.
This is the base foam layer. I built the benchwork with the 1x3 cross-rafters even with the bottom of the 1x4 outer frame. The 2-inch foam sits down inside the frame, giving it some protection.
You'll note that the foam doesn't cover the whole benchwork at this point. On my layout, this is only the lower level, where the subway trains run. The upper level sits mostly about 3 inches higher, with part of the layout about halfway between.
I used risers to position the higher levels of foam. I also used a bit of cookie-cutter to get the slopes going from one level to the next. Here's what it looks like from below:
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Thanks Guys. You have been a big help.
I'll chime in with Art and the other posters on the foam--my 24x24 HO garage layout is built intirely with 1x3" grid and 2" foam base. I spaced the cross-braces 12" apart for extra rigidity, and glued them down with Elmer's Carpenter glue. The layout rises from 0" at the main yard to well over 24" at the highest point, and it's all done with foam and WS foam risers. Very lightweight and very sturdy. I've had the layout in operation for 7 years now and have had no trouble with the foam at all.
I've used several different kinds of techniques for scenery on the layout including stacked carved foam, plaster cloth over foam forms and plaster cloth over cardboard lattice bracing. Foam is quick, easy to work with and much sturdier than you'd first expect.
Here's a couple of shots, if it helps. My website also has some construction shots in progress.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Welcome to the forum. For a flat part of my layout I used a 2 inch sheet of foam on L girders. I used Woodland Scenic risers to make a grade and plaster cloth to smooth the edges. It worked great and was fast. For the mountainous areas I used risers and plywood sub bed and filled in between with carved foam. Here are a couple pics of the flat portion and a pic of where the two connect.
I used Seiver's Benchwork and 2 layers of 2-inch foam on my layout (http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html). I've got several pictures of the progress of how I built the layout on my site that might help you.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
My layout is 2 inch foamboard on top of a table similar to yours and it does work.I used a glue called "Powergrip" to fasten my foamboard to my tables.My layout is 6 feet wide and 24 feet long, made up of three 6x8 tables bolted ened to end.I cut a 4x8 foamboard into two 2 x8 pieces to get my 6 foot width and glued them against the other 4x8 piecs as I layed them in place.The advantage to my layout is it is lightweight, strong, and has legs bolted on with screw type levelers on the bottom of the legs.If I ever move, the whole layout comes apart quickly, and can be easily set up on their sides and carried up the basement staircase by two guys, one on each end.
Many guys use plywood, but it is heavier, and if you ever want to move your layout, or do move to a another home, it's more difficult to deal with.They both have pros and cons, but I chose foamboard because it works best for me.It's actually a matter of personal preferences.Foamboard lends itself to making scenicking easier, becuase you can cut and carve almost anything your mind can imagine, as for hills, creeks, rivers, tunnels, mountains, etc.You can even cut custom risers or grades with it.Let me give you a website where you can buy a really nice foam cutting setup.I also build and fly RC model airplanes, especially sailplanes ( gliders) and my foam cutter is great for that, but has really proved handy for doing a lot of my model railroad stuff!Tekoa sells accesories that you can make just about anything out of foam. I am not associated with them in anyway, just that they have a really great product, or tool should I say.You are only limited by your imagination with these tools.
www.tekoa.com/
Look at the "gravity" powered foam cutter, as it can also be used manually without the gravity puller setup, and they offer several bow sizes, etc.
\With the accesories you can make almost any shape imaginable.
I used Woodland scenics foam roadbed, and used clear latex caulk to fasten it down. , then gray latex to fasten my track down as it will closely match my ballast .
TheK4Kid
I am just getting back in MR after a 20 year layoff. I have built a 5' by 12' L girder table with 1x3 cross members for my layout with plans to expand. However, I am in a hurry to get some track down and start to run my sound equiped DC/DCC locos. I am concidering using the 2" foam board as a base as this seems like it is the fastest way. I am looking for any suggestion and help. Are any books available on this type of layout construction?