Benchwork for "N" scale in an Apartment, which way to go ?

[Anonymous]

Background, I'm new to N after a 30 years hiatus from Model RR. My last was the usual 4x8 HO on sawhorses. I've been collecting tracks and rolling stock to start my layout. I'm going with Kato Unitrack, and for now probably Cab control because I've come into possesion of some MRC powerpacs dirt cheap. I'm building an Anthracite RR model in a semi spare bedroom of a rented apartment. Before I invest in benchwork I wanted to hear from the voices of experience. Today I made a trip to Home depot to see whats available. Here are some options I have.

1) I already have (2) hollow core doors in my posession. In good shape free. The are approx 38" x 80" I would set them up in an "L". possibly mounting one side to the wall, and build legs under the other.

2) Metal Shelf brackets supporting a roadbed made up of 1x3" s and luan or Foamcore, with Pink Foam on top. Available in 12 and 18" widths.

3) Wire Frame, closet organizer type shelfs. Available in 12", 16", and 20" widths, plus ready made corner sections. Mount Foam core and possible Luan base with Pink foam on top. Using their mounting brackets.

4) 48" bookcases on both ends of a frame and Luan and or Foamcore top. This would give me support and storage.


The room is 12 x 15' other than the bookcase idea I plan on going with a 55-57" height for more realism, plus with (4) back surgeries bending over is not a good idea.

I know someone on board has done the closet organizer shelfs.

Another thing I saw was Pegboard. Has anyone ever used this as a base. No need to drill holes for wires !

I look forward to your feedback. Since it is an apartment I want it to be sturdy, but light, and to be able to move it when I move.

Thanks again, Dave.

[nfmisso]

Dave;

As you have the doors already, go with them. Use cheap metal shelf brackets to mount them to the walls, metal splice plates to hold them together. Using shelf brackets above and below will make the assembly more rigid. Three legs should be sufficient; one in each corner away from the wall. Add a six wide piece of 1/4" plywood (or similar) well attached along the front edge to further stiffen the works, hide the wires, and mount switches.

[mls1621]

Your doors are a good way to go, you might put two inch styrofoam insulation on top to allow some contouring of terrain.

Our local division has been working on a similar project layout, using a single door and Kato Unitrack, your L configuration will give you more opportunity for track plan variation.

For support, you might consider folding legs. This eliminates the need to attach it to the wall and the drilling of holes that will need to be filled and painted when it comes time to move. Checkout what's available at the home center, they're very sturdy for a layout like yours.

One suggestion, when you've finallized your track plan, start laying the track at the mating point of the two doors. That way you'll have track joints at that point and it will be much less traumatic when you separate it for a future move.

I hope this has been helpful.

[Anonymous]

Quote from Mike: One suggestion, when you've finallized your track plan, start laying the track at the mating point of the two doors. That way you'll have track joints at that point and it will be much less traumatic when you separate it for a future move.

Great suggestion ! never thought of that.

[mls1621]

Dave,

My N scale layout is on three 7' X 3' modules. I made it that may because I rent also.
The L configuration gives me a 10' X 14' layout.

As I suggested to you, all the parting lines of the modules have unsoldered rail joiners with track power connections at each side of the joints.

When I built the layout, I thought that if a move was in the future I wouldn't have to cut track to get it apart.

I hope your project goes well.

[dknelson]

While you have the doors and I am sure they are tempting, in an apartment and with light equipment such as N scale I would investigate using the thick extruded foam with a very light frame. That way the layout only goes where it has to and you might be able to make more effective use of the available space.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Hi Dave,

If you want this to be truly portable, I would suggest staying away from any of the options that have you attaching things to the walls - landlords usually frown on that sort of thing [;)].

Here is a link to building true modules with legs:

http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/MRIndex.htm

In your case, you could make standard corners and straights, and possibly a return or two so you do not need to duck under at the door (thinking of your back...!).

Good luck.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

Dave,

Given the condition of your back, 36" is a long reach. Unless you can set up freestanding with acess from both sides, I would rip the doors to narrower dimensions and go for more running length. I agree with others who say not to attach to walls. While it is easy to set the brackets and then mount the table, when you move it will be a PITA to try to mount finished pieces of layout to the new walls. Better to go freestanding from day 1 IMO.

[Anonymous]

I am an apartment dweller also with a n-scale layout in progress.It started out in a smaller apartment as a 2 level 40" by 80" built with 1"x4"s and 2"x2" legs.When I moved to this bigger apartment I had to seperate the two levels and cut the legs off.I used dowels to attach the two levels back together and dowels,glue and bracing plates on the legs.Since the layout now has its own room I have built two more 'modules' that are attached to the original with butterfly bolts and added 'magic coasters'(not sure on the brand name) to the bottoms of each leg so I can easily un-bolt and slide the modules on the carpet to access hard to reach areas (for wiring mostly- once the track is in place it won't be moved). If I move again, I'll use my dremel to cut the tracks- unbolt the three sections, lift the top level off the lower, cut the legs again and go.1"x4" pine is very easy to work with- I used a hand saw and mitre box- and sturdy.If I knew how to post pics here I would!

[DonaldAgne]

Hi, I also live in an apartment and last year built a lightweight, portable N gauge layout that I hang on the wall when not in use. Instead of repeating everything, I'll direct you to my web site that describes how I did it. Good luck, and have fun!

http://ddwngauge.homestead.com/index.html

[Anonymous]

If I had back issues, I too would lean towards lightweight framing and a shelflike setup (or at least narrow benchwork). Maybe some loops on the ends for continuous running. When you are working on your layout, you will want to move it, so with back issues, light and possibly sectional will make a big difference in the long run.

I would shy away from hollow doors, myself, as they might turn into an annoying echo chamber. One could put foam in between it and the track, and do some other things, but it seems to me that by the time you do that, you might as well make it all out of foam after all. Besides, using the hollow core doors will lock you into a specific size, and won't allow too much flexibility. If you end up cutting them, and since they are hollow core, you will have to get some wood to stiffen the new edges of the door (does that make sense?) since you cut the other edges out. Once again, by the time you do that, you might as well start with something else to begin with.

The other thing is that one's options in an apartment are limited as to what tools one can set up and use. Being an apartment dweller, you may very well not have many woodworking power tools (especially if you've been suffering from back problems), so you would have to consider the costs of renting/buying those tools too (and store them afterwards if you buy them), just for a one time process. Again, I believe that foam has the advantage there.

---jps

[Anonymous]

I am only a beginner at age 57, having built only a few layouts, but I am having a lot of fun with my N scale 3 by 6 foot railroad, made with foam on a wood framework. It's clamped to a 2 1/2 by 6 foot folding table, and comes apart into two 3 by 3 sections for easy moving. The control panel is being built to be completely detachable, too, so moving or taking to a local train show will not be difficult. You can see progress so far by going to railserve.com, checking out the model layouts section, and then clicking on Pennsylvania N scale. I hope this helps you a little. You can do a lot in N scale. It's probably the only way to go in an apartment. Happy railroadin'. George [:)]