Since everybody has helped IMMENSELY so far, I'm throwing out a few more questions on my quest for the perfect layout!
Thanks, in advance for all the help!
Skip
Hi - and welcome back to THE hobby!
I have some definite opinions regarding flex track and will try to be as objective as I can in writing about it. First of all, sectional track has several limitations that are overcome by using flextrack. Flextrack can give you most any radius, and most important - an easement into/outof that curve. A layout using flextrack has much fewer joints, which typically will give you better electrical conductivity and more reliable running. On the downside, flextrack needs to be cut to fit, and the need for a Dremel tool and needle file are almost mandatory. I suspect that most modelers use flextrack - unless they lay their own of course.
There are a number of brands and sizes out there. I am partial to Atlas, and it now comes in code 83 and code 100 - and recently they came out with #8 turnouts for the code 100. The other brands like Peco, Shinohara, Walthers are popular too, but do cost somewhat more. Oh, to the best of my knowledge, virtually all of todays flextrack is nickel-silver. Regarding the Tru-steel track, if it is clean and in good shape, it should be compatible with the nickel silver track.
Regarding the layout design software, I can't help you much with that. However, I just completed scale drawings for my upcoming 11x15 HO layout, and drew heavily on what I currently have and changed it to delete problem areas, etc., etc.
If you have a definite limited layout space (i.e. one room, or a definite closed in area), I would urge you to pick up a pad of quadrule paper, and draw out the room dimensions, and get a solid idea as to what space you have to work with. Then go back over those 250 layouts and see what part of any of them would give you a start and your own layout, and go from there.
There is software out there to help you and I suspect other posters are much more knowledgeable than I am on that subject.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
pitshop Since everybody has helped IMMENSELY so far, I'm throwing out a few more questions on my quest for the perfect layout! What are the pros and cons of flextrack?
Pro: Flextrack can be shaped into any configuration the layout builder deems appropriate - non-standard radii (try finding 670mm radius HO sectional track,) proper spiral easements, irregular curves (change radii in mid-curve) and large cosmetic curves are flextrack no-sweats and sectional track no-nos.
Con: Flextrack takes more time and care to lay properly than sectional - but still a lot less than hand-laid.
Are there better brands of track than others? 20 yrs ago, I used Atlas, but don't know if anything is better.
There are several brands, rail sizes and track treatments available besides Atlas. Even present-day, made in China, Atlas is better than before (much smaller spikeheads.) I personally use Atlas code 83, on concrete ties, for visible track and Atlas Code 100 for trackwork in the Netherworld. (Why concrete ties? It's a prototype thing.)
I have a bunch of old Tru-steel AND nickel silver track. Are they interchangable and which one is still available?
Any 16.5mm gauge track can be mated with any other 16.5mm gauge track, if you really want to. The accepted standard is nickel-silver rail. I would avoid steel if you (or your railroad) live in a humid environment. Check your track with a magnet to see which material the rail is made from.
I've looked thru what seems to be 250 track layouts, but none seem to be what I'm looking for. What is the best track layout software out there so I can design my own?
Here, your best bet is to read John Armstrong's books, both to help clarify your objectives and to learn how to bend the spaghetti (track schematic) to fit your particular bowl (size and shape of available space.) Two things to be aware of:
Thanks, in advance for all the help! Skip
Glad to have been of service - I hope.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Skip,
As others have mentioned - Flex track allows greater freedom in track design and less rail joints(a real 'plus'). Atlas still makes flex track and it is very good. They make it in code 100 and code 83 rail sizes.
Tru-Steel? - is that the old Tyco track from about 20 years ago? Throw it away - as far as you can. You do not want anything other than solid n/s trackage. That old stuff will rust and cause problems.
Track planning software? Atlas has a free package called RTS - you can download it from their web site. It only has Atlas track components, but works quite well. XTrakCad is also a free download and offers many more types/manufacturers of track. Be aware that there is a 'learning curve' to using either of these software packages - Read & do the tutorials that are included. There also are some very powerful track planning packages(3rd Planit & CadRail) that will cost you some serious money - and again there is a very steep learning curve.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
If you don't want to invest in a Dremel (although you will most certainly find many, many uses for it if you do) I do recommend a Xuron track-cutting tool, and NEVER use it for anything but cutting track! (I made that mistake, ended up buying another one that has FOR TRACK ONLY written on it in permanent market--the old one is relegated to secondary cutting duties.) They're wonderful for getting clean, flush cuts when cutting track, and cost about $10-15 US.
Tru-steel track tends to rust, I am told, and can be difficult to work with. Your old nickel-silver track is still the current standards, clean the tops of the rails and it should be just fine assuming it didn't melt or warp or anything.
Looking at track plans, and a few books on track planning theory, is a good way to start thinking about what plan you are looking for. Before you start designing a plan, write down what you ARE looking for: what kind of railroad you want to model, what kind of scenery you like, operation, geography, etcetera. One other thing I can recommend is to visit a nearby club or modular layout, or visit a train show: sometimes seeing layouts in operation can tell you things that looking at a printed track plan can't.
For layout design software, I like XTrkCAD, it's handy and free.
http://www.xtrkcad.org/Wikka/HomePage
What are the pros and cons of flextrack?
Flex is the way to go... but one con not yet mentioned is the ability with flex to make curves that are too tight and cause derailments... sectional track assures a consistent known radius. Don't just lay the flex... check the radius especially in tight spots where there's a motivation to "cheat."
In terms of quality, Atlas can't be beat. Some folks like the look of other brands. I think Atlas code 83 looks great... and the cost is better.
Throw out the steel. As mentioned by others, it's old news... and requires more cleaning effort.
XtrkCad. As Jim and Jetrock suggested, this requires time spent learning. And for a great layout, it's the best time you'll spend. I think I enjoy working with XtrkCad almost as much as I enjoy working with my layout.
A "con" for flextrack is the need to lay out some type of roadbed - usually cork, but upsom board "RibbonRail" (cut into pre-measured curves and straights) is usefull too. Long story short, after nearly 40 years in the hobby using different types of track, my new layout is being built with Kato Unitrack - narrow profile code 83 track with roadbed included. It has several advantages, I particularly like being able to temporarily put a scene together and run trains to see how it works, and make any adjustments before gluing down cork roadbed and then finding out I need to move the mainline over an inch!!
wjstixA "con" for flextrack is the need to lay out some type of roadbed - usually cork, but upsom board "RibbonRail" (cut into pre-measured curves and straights) is usefull too. Long story short, after nearly 40 years in the hobby using different types of track, my new layout is being built with Kato Unitrack - narrow profile code 83 track with roadbed included.
That's not necessarily a "con." I find flex with roadbed can be made to look a lot more realistic than sectional track with built-in roadbed.
Flex track - Pro: any radius, fewer connections. Con: separate road bed installation, more permanent / changes are harder.
But it doesn't have to be all one or the other, you can mix the two.
One advantage of sectional track is that you can do your track planning full size and easily change it. With the new track/roadbed combos with switch machines in the roadbed, installation is really easy.
Enjoy
Paul
In case you don't know what track "code" is, it refers to the height of the actual rail in inches. Code 100 is .100" tall. Code 83 is .083" tall. Code 70 is .070". etc... (just the rail, not the track and ties.)These can be mixed and matched, but it's easier to stick with all one size.Some folks use Code 100 and 83 for main lines and code 70 and smaller for branch lines and sidings to add more realism.Just in case you didn't know.
Tie height can vary between manufacturers even in the same code. This can be solved by shimming under the shorter ties with thin styrene.
Well, I'm no expert in any area of this discussion, but I have to agree about flex track cutting down on the number of connections. That is always a postive. What I've done in the past is to plan my layout using sectional track (3rd PlanIt of Atlas RTS) and then substitue flex track wherever possible. It seems to work well for me.
Mainetrains
'there's something happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear' Modeling the Hard Knox Valley Railroad in HO scale http://photos.hardknoxvalley.com/