I just got back into the hobby after 4+ decades of being away. I am building a small layout using Atlas #4 switches, Code 100 flex track, and 18" radius curves. I have been having trouble with derailments at the switches and am asking if there is something I can do to correct this problem without replacing the switches. This is random depending on the car and not all cars.
Check your switch points. Atlas switches frequently have points ending in blunt square ends, which are guaranteed to cause trouble.
The corrective action is to attack the point with a small file and taper it to a sharp point that won't catch a fingernail when it's slid along the rail. Taking a swipe at the sharp corner of the cutaway in the stock rail won't hurt, either.
The more advanced method involves a lot of things that I might otherwise suggest - but I'm not going to go there.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork)
G5&H10GuyThis is random depending on the car and not all cars.
If the same car does it all the time there is two things I would check first.
Check the cars to see if the wheels are in gage then if cars are the proper weight.
G5&H10GuyI just got back into the hobby after 4+ decades of being away
With out knowing how advances you were 40 years ago you may or may not know what I am talking about.
Gage is how far the wheels are spaced apart from each other. Weight of the car should be the following.
If car is 5 inches long it should weight 3.5 oz. Take the length X .5 and then added 1 oz to get the correct weight.
One thing I would get before you drive your self nuts is a HO scale National Modeler Railroad Association Standards Gage and cheap scales from target.
All so a number 4 is pretty tight as well. How long are the cars that are having the problem?
Plus to the site and the hobby.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Check the wheels for proper gauge. I had nothing but Atlas #4 and #6 turnouts and could push cars through any way you lease at warp speed with not derailments. The cars that did bump and wobble through the turnouts were found each and every time to have out of gauge wheelsets. I also replaced all palstic wheels with Proto 2000 wheelsets, which I NEVER found to be out of gauge. Sometimes the P2K wheels will not fit, either the axles are too long (bind) or too short (fall out or wobble), in which case there's Reboxx which makes wheelsets in various axle lengths for exact fit. There's really nothing inherently wrong with the Atlas turnouts, at least the Custom-Line numbered ones.
If you're still using horn-hook couplers, consider switching to Kadee or similar. The horn hook coupler exert a lot of side pressure, which combined with truck mounting helps to push the wheels tightly against one rail or the other which makes them that more likely to pick a point or frog and derail.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Usually derailments are caused by three things. Couplers, track and trucks. If you're using hornhook couplers make sure they have a smooth motion with no binding. Binding is usually caused by plastic flash or a burr rubbing against the coupler shank. Other times it may be caused by dirt buildup. Never use oil to lubricate couplers. It attracts dust and makes a big gummy mess. Delrin plastic parts usually slide against each other very easily and shouldn't require lubrication. However if lubrication is needed you could use powdered graphite in VERY SMALL quantities. The less you use the better. This stuff can filter down onto your track can cause severe traction problems, the main reason I don't use it. The best way to handle problems with hornhook couplers is to do away with them altogether and install Kadee knuckle couplers. Although it can be a big job almost every advanced modeler eventually converts to Kadee's. If you can't convert all your locos/cars at one time you can make the job easier by creating a transition car. This car has a Kadee on one end and a hornhook on the other end. Turnouts, no matter what the make, can be very temperamental. Make sure the turnout and the track going to and away from it are flat in relation to each other. A grade change at the turnout can cause all kinds of havoc. To discover if the derailment is actually happening at the turnout carefully sight down the track and watch the wheels as a car is being pushed/pulled toward and through the turnout. I had a case where the actual derailment took place more than a foot from the area where the wheels fell off the rails. Make sure the wheel trucks are not too tight. They should swivel freely and be able to rock slightly under the car. If the trucks are too tight loosen them by turning the mounting screws a half turn counterclockwise. If a car tends to wobble too much tighten one truck but leave the other loose to absorb the motion.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I'm new to the hobby and learning lots every day I spend on the layout and this forum. I just finished laying my track a couple of weeks ago and was anxious to try my locomotives (used hand me downs from my brother).
To my dismay one of the locos derailed on five of my seven Atlas #6 turnouts. It happened every time. Sometimes the front wheels of the loco sometimes the back wheels. Didn't matter if I went through slow or fast. After some reading I decided to check the wheel spacing and sure enough it was wrong. I little tweak here and there and I got the wheel spacing set to the NMRA spacing and the loco now goes through every turnout with no problems at very slow speeds and full speed every time. I have learned wheel spacing is critical. Good luck.