I'm modeling the Cincinnati, Lebanon and Northern, a small line in the early 1920's. I've obtained Conrail track charts from the 1980's that lists some of the mainline rail on the north end of the line as being 80 lbs. So I don't know exactly what kind of rail they used in the 1920's, but I know it is most likely 80 lbs or less. Some of the rail up here is also still stamped "US Steel", so it probably hasn't been replaced in a good while.
The small rail of the prototype makes me want to go with code 70 on the mainline. However, this would limit the amount of pre-constructed turnouts available to a few common types. In order to fit Lebanon yard where I want it my design featured a Shinohara #7 curved turnout. This is only available in Code 83.
So my question becomes, is it worth learning how to handlay so I can create my own specialwork with the smaller rail size, or should I just suck it up and go with code 83? My only other option would be blending in the over-sized curved turnout into a code 70 mainline (it's off in the corner and might be unnoticible). How hard would it be to disguise a small transition before and after the turnout?
Short answer - YES!
Longer answer. It's worth learning to hand-lay specialwork, no matter what size rail you (or your prototype) use. Once you've built a turnout or two, you'll probably be able to create trackwork better than that available in bubble packs at your LHS. You, not some manufacturer, will be able to decide what track geometry is appropriate - and if the frog turns out to be a #6.58, who cares? Finally, the most expensive hand-laid switch is almost certain to cost less than the least expensive store-bought equivalent.
There's also the pride factor - I built that!
Now that the forum search function is working again, try typing in hand laid switches. You should get back enough to keep you reading for quite a while.
(Caveat - I have been handlaying with Code 100, Code 83 and Code 70 for decades, so I'm speaking from experience.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand laid specialwork)
As I have shared of late I have put layout building on sabbatical and am currently devoting my efforts to writing a novel. I was once sharing this desire with a engineering major in the M.U. at ASU and this individual said that he would like to write a novel one day but he had never learned how to type. When I informed him that there were a lot of educational opportunities available where he could learn how to type he informed me that learning to type was really too much trouble.
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
Definitely. There is a variety of prefab Shinohara turnouts in code 70. If that's not enough, there is BK Enterprises that, at least in the past, will make most anything to order. (The Walthers catalog shows only code 100 and code 83 turnouts for BK, but in years past they've made dual guage turnouts and crossings in code 70 and 55 for me. Just send BK a sketch of what you want.) Then there is FastTracks where they have tools to make handmade turnouts, and you can always make your own. Perhaps Chuck from Arizona might attend a model railroad meet and provide some one-on-one instruction for that.... I've never progressed beyond turnout kits.
Mark
I think handlaying is a really good thing to learn for number of reasons, one of them being as mentioned above in the satisfaction that YOU did it. My branchline has a couple of spurs that are going to be a real challenge to run oon because it is A) light rail--code 40 and B) sort of warped/warbly. and well a bit submerged in the weeds a bit..
Some guys I know have even gone bought turnouts and incorporated them into/with handlayed sections as well---just go for it!
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
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Handlaying can get you the smaller size rails and allow a lot of flexibility.
As for the prototype rail size and age, it can be easy to determine. Its stamped right on the rail.
[img] http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/500/Date.jpg [/img]
For example:
140 RE CC Beth Steelton 1965 IIIIIIIIIII
This is 140 lb, RE shape, Control Cooled, rolled at Bethlehem Steel's Steelton (PA) plant in 1965. The hash marks are the month so this rail was rolled in November 1965. It won't tell you when the rail was laid, but it will tell you how big it is and when it was made.
(PS if I can get the site to accept a photo link I will have a photo of the rail data)
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
First of all, in HO scale code 55 rail would be more appropriate than code 70, with perhaps code 40 on the spurs. Code 55 rail represents approximately 75lb rail in HO scale, and code 70 equates to about 100-110lb rail. Exact matches are difficult because prototype height for rail varied 1/4"-1/2" between manufacturers for a given weight. Model rail code measures the height of the rail only in thousandths of inches. The November 1962 Model Railroader had an excellent Clinic article on rail sizes with several charts.
Whether you should use the small rail and either handlay or buy turnouts and track from less common sources is really another personal decision. I'm a fan of the "track is a model, too" club, and like the idea of accurately modeled trackwork. I've only drawn the line at Proto87 because of the larger curve radius needed and the difficulty in reworking my all-steam locomotive roster to P87 standards. But there are plenty of fine layouts built with Atlas code 83 track, too. Now, I can spot the difference in track in pictures in the magazines. I haven't visited many of these layouts in person to know if I can see the difference with my eyes. Only you can decide whether it's worth your while to spend your modeling time on handlaid track. BK and Railway Engineering make turnouts in code 55; BK's are turnout kits. Fast Tracks will make you turnout jigs for any rail size you want to use. And of course, you can have the personal satisfaction and flowing trackwork from rolling your own from the ground up.
Because I have a personal need to run trains periodically before the layout is far enough along to run trains, I am building a small test track layout that will eventually be stored vertically against the wall. The 1st incarnation of the test track will use code 83 Snap Track and a couple of pieces of flex track (HOn3) to move things along quickly. This will allow me to enjoy and have the patience I need handlaying the main layout. The same theory can be used to later replace prefab track on the layout with handlaid when you are up to the challenge. Just use Homasote instead of cork for the roadbed so you will be easily able to handlay later on.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Just to add to the already great ideas given. Take a gander at Central Valley's turn out kits. I purchased, and assembled one (wanted to check them out) on my lay out and was very pleased with the results. Not 100% hand laid but close. They look great!
I agree that the smaller rail looks better, but in my opinion, the difference between code 70 and 83 is so minor that it just isn't a good enough reason to hand lay track. Some enjoy doing so, and I'm happy for them, but to me its a time consuming task that merely slows layout construction and invites track guage/derailment issues. MRRing is a hobby of many aspects and personal choices. I believe that most who hand lay track do so because they enjoy the craftmanship aspects.
If code 70 was a high priority, I'd consider using manufactured track components to the extend possible, then hand lay what was not commericailly available. Or in your situation, insert the code 83 curved turnout with the code 70, then replace it with a hand layed one as time and skills permit.
Jim
Thanks for all the advice everyone. Clearly handlaying would give me the most flexibility. I may have to just try it and see how hard it is before I make a final decision on what to go with.
My last question is how hard is it to use the PC ties when handlaying? Is it worth looking into? I would prefer being able to make turnouts at my workbench and then drop them into the layout later if it's at all possible.