For this Weimer's Mill kit from Branchline Trains, I used an India Ink in alcohol wash. It gave me just the weathered look I wanted, without adding water to the wood:
I did take the time to build an interior for the kit, even though it's quite small. It's at the front of the layout, and very visible to the viewer. The interior bracing here is mostly just for show, and it was applied after the ink wash.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I suggest subscribing to Railroad Line Forums. The members on that forum tend to build a lot of craftsman kits and it generally is concerned with a lot of that type of modeling, much more so than the Trains.com forums, which is oriented more towards the beginner. You will see 20 threads on detailing and craftsman kit building for every "can I get my engines around and 18" radius curve" thread.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
OK...back s-l-o-w-l-y away from that craftsman kit! As I'm sure you found out craftsman kits ain't cheap so it makes good sense to get some lessons from an expert. No, definitely not me. I strongly suggest you visit Scott Mason's website www.scottymason.com and purchase at least the first DVD in his course. Scott has a way of keeping your interest AND imparting a great deal of knowledge. I have made it a practice to view all 3 of his DVDs before I begin the winter building season (memory is the second thing to go with age...I forgot the first).
Regarding warping (yes...been there; done that) Scotty recommends that you glue reinforcing strips on the inside of your building...including the roof. If you are lucky enough to have a Hobby Lobby in your area, stock up on 1/8" x 1/8" wood strips to use for reinforcing material (I am assuming you are not going to model the structure's interior). Another tip is to seal both sides of your walls/roof/whatever with either polycrylic (I use Minwax obtained from Lowe's) or airplane dope to ward off the effects of humidity changes. The polycrylic is water clean-up and works very well.
I hope this helps. I have found that assembling a craftsman kit to be relaxing and just the thing to pass those cold, winter evenings. Oh, usually painting the reverse side of a warped piece will bring it back in line. If not, place a weight on top of the piece overnight and everything should be OK by morning. Good luck!
"Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on rail."
Try a web sight call "Rail Road Line Forums". They have a forum topic dedicated to craftsman kits. I think that a lot of the members are craftsman kit builders and scratch builders. You can get a ton of good information from this site.
Thank you all for your reply's...sorry it took so long for me to get back onto this site ( work gets in the way ) quick question?...if I prime with the auto primer...does it effect my paiting? that is..can I get a good wash and still get a good effect?...again thanks to all...Tom
Most brace before they wash but I have done it the other way but sometimes have to weigh it down as it drys. As far as craftsman kits advice try mrrforums.com, they deal mostly with craftsman kits.
It's best to seal the wood in these kits before you apply water based paints. As already noted, you could spray paint them with a primer; NAPA laquer auto primers work well, but conventional brands like Krylon are also possible--as well as those in the more expensive model paint lines . Another technique is to use one of the Minwax stain and seal products (oak is popular). Or you could use a sanding sealer or similar clear finish. Whatever you do, make sure to coat all sides, as others have already warned.
Voyageur
Gate 5
I've dry brushed the stains on with no problem on both sides and done the india ink idea as well and I can attest to the worn look. Even then, bracing with stripwood is a must( esp. with a furry one who thinks N scale anything makes for a wonderful golfball...).
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
Yes, with the very thin wood pieces used in these kits, it's better to paint both sides at the same time. And yes, even now, painting the other side should help. After that, you may be able to flatten out the warped pieces, and then use some internal bracing to keep them that way. If it makes you feel any better, I once applied polyurethane to one side of the base of a piece of kit furniture, and it warped a rediculous amount. This was real-world furniture, and the board was a half-inch thick. And, I was able to straighten it out by applying the polyurethane to the other side and then putting a lot of weight on it for a while.
I use India Ink in alcohol to stain these buildings. I get a gray, worn look that way.
Did you try using the same paint on the other side of the walls? I've heard this can make the warping go away.
Hi everyone!..I searched for craftman's kits on this forum..and got no returns..I just purchased my 1st real wooden kit and promptly messed it up....(gave a water and paint mixed wash and bldg warped)..So i'm starting this post hoping to hear for all the experienced people to help with tips for the novice ( me ) in doing a fair job with these kits....I've seen some super structures at shows and hope to learn so here's my shout out for any and all comments...thanks Tom