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Layout Design Assistance

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Layout Design Assistance
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 29, 2004 10:55 AM
Greetings. I have taken a short 20 years off of railroading and now it's time to build my first layout in um... a real long time. Since I am older and thus wiser, I am planning this layout to the Nth degree (in N scale no less).

What I am in need of is layout design assistance. I need someone to review my requirements and offer suggestions/critique on my track plans. I am an expert (not master) user of 3rd Plan It! (Highly recommended software I might add) so I can provide example track plans with my collaborator(s).

Here are my design cornerstones:

1. N-Scale.
2. Trackwork and structures are the focus.
3. 10 x 6 area for the layout.
4. Rear wall and left wall are present, no right side or front wall
5. Era will be 1965-70 urban Chicago (may go slightly earlier or later)
6. Areas modeled will include downtown and south side urban areas
7. Passenger traffic in the form of Chicago commuter (IC & RI)
8. Freight traffic will be an imaginary belt railroad (ala BRC)
9. Realism is a lower priority than fun
10. Benchwork using "modules" that can be moved later if necessary.
11. Module sizes are 2' x 6' - May modify one to 18" x 6' so the other can be 30"
12. I have read layout planning for realistic operations (Armstrong) and subscribe to it's design philosphy. Minimum radii on my layout will be 15.5" with 17" more common.

The train room is nearly done and I will be constructing benchwork in the next few weeks/month. I am also looking for feedback on the following questions:

1. What track? I am leaning towards Atlas Code 55
2. DC vs. DCC (I am *NOT* an experienced wiring guy)
3. Bench height (42 inches or 48 inches - I have a 3 year old)
4. Air filtration (how pracitcal is it to keep the area dust free)
5. I am considering "ripped" plywood for benchwork rather than 1x3 / 1x2 lumber
6. Minimum radius of 15.5" is still a question mark. Can I go smaller?

Please, I have struck out finding local help for track planning. If you can be of assistance, please contact me.




  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by MAbruce on Monday, March 29, 2004 12:56 PM
Welcome to the forum! [#welcome]

Good to see you have chosen the “right” scale… [:D][;)]

On your layout, all I can do is to recommend a website that has several plans (some in 3rd Plan It) to look over. Maybe you will find something you will like?

http://www.layoutdepot.com/view.ihtml

As for your questions:

1. I’ve heard some good things about Atlas code 55 track. One of this issues you have to keep in mind is that older equipment with deep wheel flanges will hit the rail spikes. But most locos made in the past 10 years will be okay, and you can always change out the wheels on any older cars. The other issue is that since this is a new product line, the variety of accessories (like turnouts & crossovers) will be limited. Atlas will likely roll out more, but you will have to wait until they do so.

The alternative is Peco code 55, which has plenty of accessories and no flange issues. However, it is pricier.

2. From what I understand, DCC is supposed to make wiring easier. In theory, you entire layout is on one block, and signals are sent through the track to each loco to give it instructions. DCC will cost you a bit more up front, and more for each loco, but if you plan to have complex operations involving multiple trains, it’s hard to beat.

3. Bench height is purely preference. Some like a standard counter height, while others like it high at eye level. Just remember to make sure that everything on your layout is within reach!

4. Air flirtation would probably help (certainly won’t hurt), but I think that most here would agree that the best way to keep your track clean is to run your trains!

5. The use of plywood is pretty much the standard, but more people are using foam. I’ve seen some members of my Ntrak club use foam for their modules, which makes them much lighter.

6. Most equipment will run on min 9 ¾” radius curves. That doesn’t mean they will look good in doing so (especially passenger cars). If you can keep 15” (or higher) min radius, go for it!

Hope this helps!

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 29, 2004 1:07 PM
Just a couple of clarifications:

1. I plan on doing the design myself. No offense but I revel in the creative aspect of this and I'm not borrowing someone else's plan. Besides, I've already reviwed 6,428,246 plans and NONE of them suit me. (Inside joke for anal retentive perfectionists)

RE: 4. Air flirtation would probably help (certainly won’t hurt), but I think that most here would agree that the best way to keep your track clean is to run your trains!

===> I am not speaking of track cleaning, I'm thinking of dust settling on my layout. Track cleaning is of course an issue but one can always throw technology at dirty track.


RE: 5. The use of plywood is pretty much the standard, but more people are using foam. I’ve seen some members of my Ntrak club use foam for their modules, which makes them much lighter.

I am referring to plywood for the benchwork - not the table top/sub roadbed. I read in model railroader about ripping 3/4" plywood to 2 1/2 width (1x3) and wanted to know if anyone had any insight as to whether this is a good system or not.

Thanks much for the replies.


  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: California - moved to North Carolina 2018
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Posted by DSchmitt on Monday, March 29, 2004 1:12 PM
Good answers from MAbruce.

Consider using some sharper curves (7"-10") in industrial areas, where switchers and short 40'-50' cars only will operate. This makes a good contrast to the larger main line curves.

15" main line curves are larger than most people use in N scale, but I prefer 18" or more.

With the quality of lumber available today, using plywood is often the best way to go to for benchwork, unless you have friends who work a molding mill and can get you decent scrap material.

I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.

I don't have a leg to stand on.

  • Member since
    November 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,720 posts
Posted by MAbruce on Monday, March 29, 2004 1:22 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Bolan

Just a couple of clarifications:

1. I plan on doing the design myself. No offense but I revel in the creative aspect of this and I'm not borrowing someone else's plan. Besides, I've already reviwed 6,428,246 plans and NONE of them suit me. (Inside joke for anal retentive perfectionists)



No problem there. How about accessing the Terraserver website and looking at overhead shots of Chicago (with rails)? You might get some inspriation from the real thing.

QUOTE:

RE: 4. Air flirtation would probably help (certainly won’t hurt), but I think that most here would agree that the best way to keep your track clean is to run your trains!

===> I am not speaking of track cleaning, I'm thinking of dust settling on my layout. Track cleaning is of course an issue but one can always throw technology at dirty track.



Hey, if it keeps things clean, it's going to be a good thing!

QUOTE:

RE: 5. The use of plywood is pretty much the standard, but more people are using foam. I’ve seen some members of my Ntrak club use foam for their modules, which makes them much lighter.

I am referring to plywood for the benchwork - not the table top/sub roadbed. I read in model railroader about ripping 3/4" plywood to 2 1/2 width (1x3) and wanted to know if anyone had any insight as to whether this is a good system or not.



Okay, I understand now. I have even heard (a while back) of someone using PVC piping for benchwork. An interesting approach...


  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 29, 2004 6:51 PM
Hey Bolan, I think using ripped plywood for benchwork id the way to go, It's much more stable. You might be able to find 3/4" thick luaun( underlayment)
at Home depot. Think about drilling 3/4" holes in your cross braces before assembly or at least before the top goes down(your back will Thank You!)for wiring looms. If your ripping it yourself I would suggest painting or a clearcoat finish on the whole sheet and then rip it. Finishing it will add stability towards moisture. Once assembled paint the cut edges. Don't know if any of this helps but GOOD LUCK![:D]
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: North Central Illinois
  • 1,458 posts
Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, March 30, 2004 4:16 PM
Try joining the Layout Design SIG email discussion group at Yahoo! groups at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ldsig/

The stated purpose of the group says:

"Layout Design SIG

This discussion forum for members and friends of the Layout Design SIG. All aspects of model railroad layout design and construction are welcomed topics. This focus ranges from discussions about design procedures, techniques and software to most aspects of how to build what you've designed.

Membership in the Layout Design SIG is encouraged, but not required. "

Lots of good, free info and advice there. I've been a member for years...and it's FREE!

Hope this helps.
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Portland, OR
  • 3,119 posts
Posted by jfugate on Thursday, April 1, 2004 4:15 PM
CBQ_guy's right. The best thing I ever did to learn how to design a more satisfying layout was to join the LD SIG.


Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon

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