I've got a bunch of these turnouts (not installed) and noticed the strait section has a bend in it at mid point. I'm not talking of the diverging rail.
Out of 12 turnouts none are strait. On the left hand turnouts the bend is minor. On the right hand turnouts the bend is from minor to major.
Putting 9 of these in a row, as in a yard ladder, causes a single car to weave from left to right down the strait route like a snake.
Atlas has responded the bend is a normal tooling issue that affects appearance, not operation on ALL code 83 #4 custom line.
Has anyone else noticed this curvature on the Atlas #4 code 83 Custom line turnouts.
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Marc
it may be a tooling issue but it should be their issue and not yours. just another example of the junk that is being perpetrated on us by the foreign manufacturers. it is a lot easier to get away with it now because so many of us choose or are forced to buy our hobby supplies off the internet. the less stuff that is available at a reasonable price in the hobby shops, the more we buy over the net. the more we buy over the net, the less there is available in the retail shops. if we could get it locally, we could check it out before purchasing it and reject anything that we did not like right there on the spot. when the distributors and manufacturers started getting a bunch of returns from the retailers, they would have to clean up their act. a few years ago i needed 12 caboose industries ground throws for a yard ladder. 1st shop had one, 2nd shop had two, 3rd shop was completely out. i shot down 4 hours and half a tank of gas and still needed 9 more pieces. i came home and ordered them from a mail order outfit. it is just the way things have gotten to be.
I have seen this problem in multiple manufacturer's turnouts(especially on stuff less than code 100). I have found that using a steel straight-edge against the stock rail when I spike it down resolves the issue and I get nice straight trackage. A visitor mentioned how straight my track was; and I explained to him what I did, and that I spike down the turnouts in multiple areas. He went on to explain to me that I should never spike down turnouts and that they should 'float'! For the 'glue it down' crowd, I have no quick fix.
I first saw this problem years ago when laying code 80 Peco turnouts for a NTRAK module. I suspect that the 'warp' happens when pulling the rail/tie sandwich from the hot mold. The two materials heat/cool at different rates and the 'warp' happens.
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
A strait edge and nailled code 100 brass track is what I also did way back when to get a strait ladder. I have several Shinohara/Walthers turnouts. They do not exibit this warp.
Atlas rep I exchanged Email with has suggested against using a strait edge on these turnouts stating it would cause more problems than good. Atlas did not offer to replace the worst ones. And as the other poster responded you buy via Internet so it is a pain to return for credit or exchange. If the manufacturer does not stand behind the product, you are in a catch twenty-two.
So in general, not many people have noticed or simply work around the defect. I was planning on gluing to cut the noise down. These take so much force hold a strait line spiking is the only solution.
Thanks.
Hi Marc: This was a problem with code 100 Atlas Custom Line switches, too. I basicaly did what Jim described in his post. Use a steel straight edge, nail it down, ballast, and they pretty much stay straight. Here's a shot of one of my yard ladders. Note: these are all #6.
Mine were all like that too. The #6's were fine. The thing is, that curve in the outside rail did NOT take it out of gauge - this is probably whay it was suggested to not take a straight edge to it. If you push the outside stock rail straight with a straightedge, it will narrow the gauge of the track at the 'bulge' and cause more problems than the weaving does.
My solution is a bit more drastic - this layout I'm going to roll my own, more likely than not with Fastracks.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerMy solution is a bit more drastic - this layout I'm going to roll my own, more likely than not with Fastracks. --Randy
This is the best solution offered so far.
I am going to tackle hand laying turnouts as well, only I want to try using Central Valley tie strips in conjunction with the PC tie method Joe Fugate is currently using.
Hand laid turnouts when properly built, within tolerance, should out-perform any commercial turnout hands down. Problems associated with the less expensive commercial turnouts are avoided while keeping costs at or below what one pays for the "cheap" commercial turnouts. Of course they take more time to lay but the improved operation is worth it in the long run.
Thanks to those who responded. All I wanted to know is if this was a common occurence with Atlas turnouts. I'm aware their are other solutions out there from FastTracks right thru to CVT. They all involve a cost and time to build + a threshold of affordability.
I am also aware I can use a strait edge to try and illiminate or minimise the deflection. All I wanted was a second opinion on these 'appereance' defects to judge the responce given me by Atlas. Had I know this before hand I might not have wasted the money and gone direct to another solution.
Thanks again.
Marc.