When hand laying track around a curve, do you lay the inside rail or the outside rail first? When using a three point gauge, do you place the double end on the rail that is already laid?
Thanks, Steve
durango When hand laying track around a curve, do you lay the inside rail or the outside rail first?
When hand laying track around a curve, do you lay the inside rail or the outside rail first?
durangoWhen using a three point gauge, do you place the double end on the rail that is already laid?
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The double side of a 3 point gauge goes on the outer rail, which forces a slightly wider track gauge than on straight track. The sharper the curve, the wider the 3 point gauge will force the track. Try putting the double side on the inside rail, and you'll find it won't fit if initially gauged with the double side on the outer rail. The longitudinal spacing between the two rail slots on the same side controls how much widening will take place, and is governed by NMRA RPs.
If 3 point gauges are being used, then it is generally easier and more accurate to lay the inner rail (single side of gauge) first. Of course, on straight track there is no difference in gauge orientation or preference of which rail to lay first.
There are quite a few modelers who do not believe in widening track gauge - the NMRA wheel and track specs already provide a scale 1-1.5" of slop. These folks do not use 3 point gauges - roller gauges are sufficient. But gauge widening has generally found to be necessary on HO curve radii of less than 18-20". Even with larger radii, the minimum radius of a locomotive or car will be slightly larger if no gauge widening is present.
Final tip: pre-curving the rail (can be done by hand or with a rail bender) to the approximate radius makes laying curved track much easier.
hope this helps
Fred W
Good points Fred. My layout was built with 72" minimum radii (48" in one town) so it really didn't have any effect which way the 3-point gauge was used and which rail was laid first. I probably should have mentioned that.
The double-point side of the track gauge is always for the outside rail, as explained above.
I always laid both rails at the same time, finding it much easier to keep both rails centered on the ties. I would spike the rails about every fourth of fifth tie, however, I'd first do it about every 24th tie, then come back to do every 12th, then filled in every 8th and 4th. This made it easier to keep the curvature smooth/consistent.
Edit -- I used at least two track gauges at a time, placed adjacent to both sides of the tie being spiked. A third gauge was placed mid-point of the initial large gaps, placed over the 12th tie when spiking the 24th tie..
Mark
It doesn't make any difference. What is more important is having a smooth curve centered on the ties. This starts by making sure you have a good centerline and/or tie line. I start by precurving the ends of the rail so I avoid a kink at the rail joints. I then attach the rail to the previous joint. I then go to the opposite end or near the end of the curve to set the first pair of spikes. I make sure the rail is properly located using my NMRA gauge witch has been notched at the centerline and at the ends of the ties. This prevents the rails from wandering back and forth on the ties. I then go back half way for the next spike position. This allows the rail to curve naturally along the ties. I then continue to subdivide the remaining unspiked portions of the rail until I have my normal spike spacing of every fourth tie. I usually mark the tie spacing before I start laying the rails. The other rail can be spiked at the same time or not. I do not use a three point gauge but stick to the NMRA. With this method you don't need them. I have used them in the past but have found that I still need to check with the NMRA gauge. I try to spike slightly wider than the minimum gauge distance. About 1/3 of the total tolerance. Mist flex track is towards the outer limits of the gauge tolerance so you need to do a slight transition to avid a kink.