Well, I am trying on this new website and am a little confused but here goes.
I am trying to compress my yard as much as possible. Here is the scheme I have started with #6 turnouts. The only thing I have not managed is to shorten the turnouts AMAP to get more length in the yard. Does anyone have an idea what more can be done> This seems very elongated for what I want, but..... maybe I am just a dreamer!
Jake,
First of all, you didn't include the following important information:
I don't know what an AMAP is, but if it's some sort of 'texting code', remember you're not talking on a cell phone here. Looking at your diagram, I'm going to say there is no way you can have your yard tracks that close together. What program did you use to draw your track diagram?
Help us to help you.....
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Don Z - boy, did I screw up! Thanks for setting me straight!
This is an HO track written with Atlas RTS8.0 program. I have used #6 switches but will actually be building the layout with hand-made #5s. The total length I have is 160" and the width is 19". By AMAP, I meant > As Much As Possible > sorry for making that up!
I have laid some track to see how this goes and am overlapping the turnouts to get as close to point-to-point as possible but I am not sure that is the greatest idea either? I have one Trainmaster 6-axle that has to at least make the passing track.
Hope that helps. I will also try to go back to the original plan and see if I can add text. Stay tuned please!!
The length looks normal to me. Ladder tracks in yards take up alot of length. When you add a curve on the end, over half of your total yard space is usually gone.
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
OK, here is the layout with text added but it seems pretty busy to me. I guess you are correct El Capitan, yards just do take a lot of length. Hope it is worth it!
You would be well advised to use 2" separation between adjacent track centres, and 2.5" would be better for handling cars with your mitts if you must. Think of rerailing them, for example.
Handlaid #5 turnouts should work nicely for you.
Your diagramme seems unfinished at the south end of the yard. You only have what must be an A/D track completion with a turnout...are the others all butt ends?
How does this yard fit in a grander scheme? Will it just be the yard and what you show curving until it must dead end at the north end? You may be better off curving the ladder's rungs a bit...something like a radius of 120-140", with the apex near the operator.
This is how I laid out my yard. It is on a 18" wide hollow-core door.
The first two switches in the ladder are no. 6, and the rest are no. 4 (actually 4.5). Helps with the S-curve into the number 2 track. I didn't modify the switches in any manner. The number 1 track holds 8 40 foot cars, I think. The runaround hold 5-6 cars. Also room for a small engine house, where the orange building is.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Selector - thanks for taking the time to answer! Yes, I am looking at at least 2" centers in the yard. It is unfinished at the lower end as I hope some day to add another cantilevered 4x4' table and make a wye at least for turning around.
The whole layout fits together at the top to a cantilevered 4x8' table. Here is a pic of my garage, which still allows me to park my GMC Sierra (as per the wife's directions!).
And here is the configuration that I have started for that table. You may remember that you suggested I cut down in 2" foam to achieve an underpass instead of having a 3% grade. And I am thinking of a curved turnout on the lower end to give me more table to work with. A work in progress!
As to curving the ladder rungs, do you mean by using short spacers of 22 or 24" radius? I am having a hard time visualizing what you meant? Thanks again.
You should have a nice layout once it is done...nice work so far!!!
I mean, about curving the ladders, that instead of all thos turnouts leading to parallel tracks that are straight, you'll get somewhat more room in your yard if you curve them, belly to the right as we view the diagramme, with a radius that allows you to have a mirrored sweeping curve at the south end, but also gives you that much more room on each of the "rungs" the parallel curved tracks in your yard. Too sharp and coupling will be a problem, but sharp enough and you may find room for another car or two, or a better configuration of turnouts at the south and north ends. It is still ideas time, nothing cast in concrete, and I hope others chip in with some help. But you are so far taking up tons of room with those turnouts. I'd almost suggest going with #4.5 commercial flip turnouts, say Atlas, and getting more usable length in your rung tracks. Seems a shame to have such short ones at the right side of your yard as you have it laid out.
I took the liberty of laying out your track plan with XtrkCad and have attached it here for you. The yard tracks are on 2" centerlines without modifying the Atlas turnouts. I also added a parallel ladder with more storage tracks just to give you more to chew on....
Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
You have 1 main 1 AD and 4 yard storage tracks correct?
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
SperandeoThis is a space-saving measure that prototype railroads often use, and it lets you combine the advantages of longer turnouts with the compactness of the larger angle. All it takes to accomplish this is a little bit of curvature from the diverging leg of the turnout leading into the yard track.
Trust Andy. :-D I do (and I own that very book he mentions.) It's good reading.
Here's my contribution:
Features:
Good job! It would allow for more flexibility, especially leading-in engines, to escape if the purple track diverged south-east a bit above where you show it ending, and ran diagonally, through double slips, to the AD track again.
Here's my yard ladder:
I angled the ladder to get longer tracks and used compound ladder to fit more tracks in.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Try flipping the turnouts on the south side of the photo around. So both ladders are parallel to eachother, and your yard tracks are a consistent length. A compound or split ladder would also help.
Don Z - thanks so much! I am astounded how much better that looks with the XTrkCad.... and so much more track than I had! I have that program as a demo but have not had the time/courage to attack it. Looks like I should have!
Mike - I especially like the filled gondolas! You have the right idea..... as well as a good yard design!
Don - yes, that seems to be what will fit on my shelf. Does it look like it will work?
Don - like your contribution but am curious what program you used to get such a colorful track plan? I think I could flip what you have and make it come out to my tabletop main. Thanks for the help!
NOW I think I see what everyone keeps saying about angling the yard. Thanks for the picture!
We/me dumber take a little longer to wake up!
Jake1210 - which/whose picture are you talking about? I need all the input I can get!
Heres my yard so far.
It was drawn with 3rd plan it. It is in HO scale the grid is 12” x 12”. Mainline and AD track turn outs are #6’s. Yard turnouts are #4. Yard leads can be longer if needed. The benchwork is 2’ x 15.3’. It has a two stall engine house, a RIP track, a Caboose track, along with a MOW storage track on the right side with a short lead above it to spot a sand hopper and fuel tank car beside a small fueling and sand station leading to the engine house. This is my latest dream yard design for a two garage layout. But I keep kicking this plan around so it is far from finished if I ever build it.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
Jake, what about a curved ladder?
This is what I did with my yard at Westport at least partially for the A/D tracks and main BTW, my track spacing is only about 13' at the class tracks.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
jake9Don - like your contribution but am curious what program you used to get such a colorful track plan?
It's Atlas Real Track Software. It's free and available from atlas's site.
Wolfgang - thanks for the input. Amazing how similar that looks to the plan above of Johnnny Reb's! Not sure where I see the curve in the yard ladder?
Think I will now have to take all the great input and finally stop procrastinating and LAY TRACK!!!
I had a video of a very small yard on a 4 foot shelf, once I find it I will put a link to it. I think it was one arrival/departure track with a drill serving 2 body or classification tracks.
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/1474/roundhouse440versiontwofb5.flv
I think that little adventure was a desperate attempt at having SOMETHING running. But thinking back on it I realized that I enjoyed the experience and it will be ok to put down a big yard someday.
Looking over some of the pictures here on this thread makes for some outstanding yards.
Large or small, you can do it.
Just remember, a train isnt a train until a track warrant is issued, caboose tacked on and markers active. LOL.
SperandeoHi Jake, I'm surprised that no one has suggested laying out your yard ladders with the no. 6 turnouts on the angle of a no. 5 or even a no. 4. This is a space-saving measure that prototype railroads often use, and it lets you combine the advantages of longer turnouts with the compactness of the larger angle. All it takes to accomplish this is a little bit of curvature from the diverging leg of the turnout leading into the yard track. I show this on page 31 of my book, "The Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards," and also in the example yard on pages 34-37. The photo on page 28 shows a prototype example of a yard ladder laid out this way. Good luck with your layout, Andy
I am a guy who just follows the blueprints and builds what it says. Now I want to design my own layout. I am starting on the yard first, so I just bought the book "The Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards" last night (good book by the way) but I don't understand the whole "use no. 6 turnouts on the angle of a no. 5" thing. Can you please help explain that more?
Houdini54 I just bought the book "The Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards" last night (good book by the way) but I don't understand the whole "use no. 6 turnouts on the angle of a no. 5" thing. Can you please help explain that more?
I just bought the book "The Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards" last night (good book by the way) but I don't understand the whole "use no. 6 turnouts on the angle of a no. 5" thing. Can you please help explain that more?
The graphic on page 31 of of the book shows it pretty well. By inserting a small curve just after the first turnout in the yard, the ladder is on a slightly steeper angle than it would be if you used the "natural" angle of the first turnout. Then each yard track will also have a slight curve following the turnout into the body tracks. This saves on the overall length of the ladder.
This sharper angle doesn't have to be exactly on the angle of the next smaller numbered switch, by the way. That is one easy way to figure it that usually works out well, but that way of phrasing it (which is common) does make it a little confusing to figure out what's going on. Just look carefully at the top two diagrams of ladders on that page and you'll figure it out.
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