Muscatine & Northern N Scale--- Help please

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone - I am new to model railroading and jumped head first into my first layout - the Muscatine and Northern N Scale from the Jan 2001 MR magazine.

I have already built the benchwork as described in the article and have the plywood top in place. My next step is to buy the foam board, track, trains and DCC at a show this weekend but I have a few questions.

1) Wiring: I'm not sure where to begin.. I was thinking of possibly using DCC but the track layout seems to only really support a single train (possibly two because of the passing track). Is it worth it? If not, how would I wire this config?

2) Track: I'm not sure what track to get. The article lists plain old Atlas track - if I go this route, is this ok? Also, what do I put under the track? I mean, if I put the foam board on top of the plywood (Do I even need the foam board if I have the plywood???), does the track just get nailed/glued onto the foam board or plywood? Or do you put some of that track cork down first? Or should I just get track that has a roadbed already built in (Pricey I would imagine..)

3) Order: Do I put the foam down and "sculpt " it with places for the river, hills etc and then put the track down? When does the wiring get done?

4) Has anyone else built an N scale layout using this layout?

Thx for all the help... I'm sure to ask more questions and learn a ton from reading all the messages already on here!

[skir4d]

Pesto126;

My suggestions would be...

Stay away from DCC right now. Start with a nice and much less expensive
standard DC supply. Get your feet wet and some experience before investing a lot of money.

I am not familiar with the M and N layout, so I can't help you with specifics about
construction.

Jack W

[DSchmitt]

Atlas track is fine and is traditionally the "sandard" in the USA. You could substitute other brands (I like Peco) but some adjustments to the plan would be required mainly due to differences in turnout geometry. (and sectional track geometry if you use sectional track). You could also use one of the track systens with built in roadbed. Brands of track can be mixed. My latest project has Peco turnouts, Atlas sectional track, Atlas and Peco flex track, and Kato Unitrack. All in a 1' x 4' switching layout based on John Allens Timesaver[:D]

I use 1/2 width HO cork under my main lines and usually put spur tracks and sometimes siding a little below the main on N cork or no roadbed. Woodland Scenics makes a nice foam roadbed.

The traditional order of work is to lay the track, wire it and make sure it works before doing any scenery. Lately I tend to rough in the scenery first (making sure to have access for laying the track and wiring. This is pretty much the way its done using Woodland Scenic foam scenery system.

I have never used DCC, but I can see many advantages to it. It appears to be the wave of the future, particuarly amoung experienced model railroaders. Thre are many "DCC ready" locos on the market now (designed so that a decoder can be pluged in in the future) I sugest going DC now and , if you can, getting experiance with DCC on a friends layout and/or a club layout. A friend of mine coverted his previous layout to DCC the went back to DC because it didn't provide any benefit on his layout the way he operated it, He now uses DCC on a modular club layout where he is very active.

[MAbruce]

First of all, welcome to the forum! [#welcome]

I’ll try to answer your questions, but I’m not familiar with the Muscatine and Northern layout plan.

1. To go DCC instead of DC is always a hard decision to make. I’ve operated layouts in both modes, and find that DCC is very attractive. However, there is a price to pay, and that stopped me from using it on my layout. The initial investment may be a bit more expensive than DC, but the long term expense of purchasing only those loco’s that are DCC capable can be an issue. It’s really up to you and your bank account.

It also depends on the level of complexity of operations on your layout. DCC is nice, but I think it's not really going to get you much if you have a simple oval track plan. DCC shines on larger layouts with a more complex operation.

I also think that we need to see more of a commitment from all N-scale manufacturers to DCC. But this is starting to occur. Atlas and Kato are already on board, and it looks like the others are starting to make their newer releases DCC ready.

Wiring DCC is supposed to be less complicated than DC, because (in theory) everything is on one block. But as I have no experience here, I can’t really comment any further.

2. Atlas code 80 track is pretty much a bullet proof way to go. It’s durable, cheaper, and has a wide range of accessories. Their recently release code 55 looks more realistic, but the range of accessories (Turnout’s mainly) is limited as they are still releasing them. The code 55 line is sensitive to older locos and cars with large wheel flanges. But I have heard good things about this track, and as you are new to the hobby, most of what you are likely to buy will operate on this track with no difficulty.

Peco and Micro Engineering also make track. I’ve always heard great things about Peco code 55. It’s been around a while and because of it’s design, there are no “flange” issues. However, it commands a higher price. I’ve heard mixed things about ME track, mostly that it’s harder to work with. I think it’s more geared to the experienced modeler (at least that’s my impression).

I’d stay away from track made by Model Power, Bachmann, and Life Like. Most of what they make is not readily available anyway.

Kato makes a product called “Unitrack”. I hear it’s a nice product, but it’s section track only (no flex) and very pricey.

I would put cork (or foam) roadbed down first and then glue the track to it. I used nails and they can be difficult to work with. One stray swing of the hammer and there goes your track!

3. The order of things should be this: Bench work, cork roadbed, and track (with electrical). Before you even start on scenery, your layout should be operational. All tracks should be down, wired, and work! You should be able to run your trains as though the layout was finished.

Believe it or not (for most people) the scenery stage will take the longest. In fact, many think you will never be finished with it.

I hope this helps a little. Good luck on your layout and keep posting questions as you need help. There are a lot of great modelers here that are willing to help!

[Anonymous]

Stick a layer of foam down below the track. This will alow you to put in rivers and dips in the ground below track level. It will make the scenery look better and (if you are lucky) will make the trains a bit quieter.

[Anonymous]

Thank you all very much for the advice.. because this is my first experience with model trains - I am going to go the "simple/cheaper" route.

I will just go DC and not bother with DCC for now.

If I put the foam board (red/blue) over the plywood and glue that down, do I still need to put cork roadbed under the track? Or can the track just be glued directly to the foam board? I'll probably go with Atlas 80.

As for wiring.. I'm completely confused. I know you need a power supply which must have wires that are then attached to the track.. but, where would you need to attach the wires? Also, how do the trains then use the passing lane... is there something that needs to be wired there to?

Thx so much for your help.... big purchases at the show this weekend!

[MAbruce]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pesto126

If I put the foam board (red/blue) over the plywood and glue that down, do I still need to put cork roadbed under the track? Or can the track just be glued directly to the foam board? I'll probably go with Atlas 80.

As for wiring.. I'm completely confused. I know you need a power supply which must have wires that are then attached to the track.. but, where would you need to attach the wires? Also, how do the trains then use the passing lane... is there something that needs to be wired there to?

Thx so much for your help.... big purchases at the show this weekend!

It really doesn’t matter (from an operational standpoint) if you place your track flu***o the foam surface or put it on a roadbed. It’s really up to you. The purpose of roadbed is to simulate the way tracks look in the real world. They are usually raised up a little so that water will drain away and not pool over them.

As for wiring, I strongly suggest you read over these articles (from our host) that I found on the subject before you make any purchases. The last thing you want to do is to purchase something that is incorrect and/or unnecessary.

http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/001/171ynjxw.asp

http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/001/310arewb.asp

http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/001/105idgli.asp

http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/002/139ffgvl.asp

http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/000/103tvgwt.asp

PS: What show are you going to this weekend?

[Anonymous]

Thx Skir4d.... I will read those articles right now!

The show is the Greenberg show in Wilmington MA.. been a few times before but since I'm really at the layout build stage now.. should be a bit more interesting than in years past.

Thx again for the advice.

[MAbruce]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pesto126

The show is the Greenberg show in Wilmington MA.. been a few times before but since I'm really at the layout build stage now.. should be a bit more interesting than in years past.

Thx again for the advice.

I was there yesterday with my Ntrak club (Northeast Ntrak). Did you stop by??

Neil's had a large area of N-scale for sale next to us. He had things that I've only read about in N-scale!

I may be back for a little while this afternoon. Hard to say, becuae the house chores list is a bit long..