I am trying to put a Walterhs 90' turntable into my new layout and can't seem to make it work. I followed the directions, got it installed then hooked up the wiring. It performs like the manual says it should. Light blinks and stays on, etc. The problem is that it never turns, it just sits there. If I press one of the arrow buttons or the Zero button nothing happens. I have held the Zero/Set buttons to reset it with no other luck.
I am using a power pack from an old DCC MRC (Original Prodigy) if that matters. Nothing else is plugged into the power as I haven't finished laying track yet.
Anyone have any ideas before I contact Walthers about a return?
Thanks in advance.
Dan
If its the same 90' walthers http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2840 I have then you have to make sure you remove the protective blue tape from the contact and the zero reader,thought of a couple other things first off reset to default by turn the power pack off. Hold down SET and ZERO and turn the power pack back on. Make sure the bridge is in place correctly.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Kind of a side question about turntables - I'm in the final planning stages of a new layout and may or may not include a turntable. The only turntable I have any first hand knowledge of is the Atlas turntable and I was always kind of turned off by the noise it made while turning the engines. Is this common to all makes of turntables? If so, is there any way, outside of turning it manually, to get rid of the noise? Brings back bad memories of the dentist.
Mainetrains
'there's something happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear' Modeling the Hard Knox Valley Railroad in HO scale http://photos.hardknoxvalley.com/
Mainetrains, the turntables are generally noisy, but they tend to be much noisier as you increase the voltage to them to get them to turn faster. I had my earlier, non-indexed Walthers TT behaving quietly if I kept the voltage down. The indexed ones are generally comparatively quiet. Mind you, my engines are all steamers with sound, so it could just be that its inherent noise is effectively masked by the sound systems nearby. I do hear more noise if I am next to it.
To the original poster, are you sure your power supply is providing power within the specs stipulated by Walthers? It can be either DC or AC, but must be within 12-19 volts. I didn't like the idea of getting to close to either extreme, so I found an AC wall wart locally providing 16.5 volts and the requisite maximum 0.5 amps.
If you have installed everything properly, and all connections are home and true, and the unit won't perform its intended function, then you must have a faulty unit. Apart from some grit or dirt in the plastic cog ring at the lower periphery of the pit, or something binding in the mechanism and wiper array in the central pit, or the plastic protective films not being removed, it pretty much means a return to the manufacturer.
Try doing the wiring over again as if you were starting from scratch. Shouldn't take more than a few short minutes. That includes the cables. Verify your power supply outputs. Vacuum the pit. Maybe wipe all visible contacts that are housed inside the pit when it is assembled with alcohol and a clean lint-free cloth. If none of that works, you have a defective unit....assuming you are following the instructions for operating it with initial programming.
-Crandell