Peco turnouts

[mike33469]

Which Peco turnouts are used on DCC layouts, and is any special wiring needed?

[cacole]

The best are Peco Insulfrog turnouts. The only wiring caution with them is to place insulated rail joiners on both short rails that diverge from the frog. Even though Insulfrog turnouts have a plastic insulated frog, the two rails that diverge from the frog change polarity according to the way the turnout is set, and this can cause electrical shorts if these two rails are not insulated from the rest of the track. This is true for DC block control as well as DCC wiring.

[Anonymous]

Hold off before you run out and buy any of the current range of Peco Track ( HO scale ) - Over here in the UK a new range of North American Prototype track in Code 83 has just been announced for release in June 2004 by Peco.
Here's a sneak write-up courtesy of UK's Railway Modeller.....
Quote
The rail profile and tie spacing will reflect US practise, there will
be extended ties for turnout levers and the rail fixings, baseplates
with spikes and sliderail fixings with cast cleats all add to the
realism. Checkrail and frog clearances will be to NMRA standard and flange support in the frog area will will give smooth passage over the turnouts. Live frog and insulfrog turnouts, to NMRA
classifications Nos 5 & 6 and a No. 6 diamond crossing will be part
of the range.
Flexible track (in yard lengths) will also be available and it is
totally compatible with DCC.
Unquote

regards
David(UK)

[Anonymous]

Electrofrog are probably a better bet with DCC - these points have a live frog which as I understand it is not a problem in DCC? Don't know much about wiring Electrofrog points as I've never used them. They'll be worth the effort if you run smaller locos like 0-4-0 switchers as the locos will not stall as readily on the points. If your fleet is purely 4-axle or larger diesels then Insulfrog will be fine and will be far easier to wire.

[nfmisso]

I recommend Electrofrog for the reason R_B suggests, which are more important with DCC. You will need to put insulating joiners or spacers on both inside rails past the frog.

[BR60103]

I've found that the Insulfrog turouts may be a better bet with DCC. With electrfrog, the open point is the opposite polarity from the stock rail and some wheels will touch both at once and short out. With insulfrog, the point will be either the same polarity or neutral. Of course, the dead frog may be another issue.
Why not get one of each and see?

[Anonymous]

The instructions that come with the Peco points have something to add about electrofrog points.

To get this to work you need a switch of some discription that regulates the polarity of the frog - this can be a microswitch pushed by the fascia mounted rod or inside a switch machine e.g. a tortoise or whatever.

turn the points over and you'll see that there are a number of wires in recesses in the sleepers. If you attach the wire from the frog to the microswitch and cut the two short wires that connect the moving rails to the frog then the frog and moving rails are isolated from each other. You still need to put insulating rail joiners on the rails leading away from the frog.

The result is that when the points are set for one route the frog is the approprate poartiy BUT the moving rail close to the other rail (the one that is open adn can cause electrical shorts on metal wheels) is now electrically dead!

end of problems.

I would go for electro frog points as they look a bit nicer and are less prone to wear on the tip of the frog as it is metal not plastic