If it has the properties of particle board, it is very susceptible to changes in humidity. It will expand and contract, and if constrained on the ends, it will warp as well. Even plywood will do this to some extent. Generally, painting plywood will help manage the moisture issue.
To me, that's another good reason to use foam.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I certainly haven't had positive experiences with it.
I'll never try to go cheap like that again. Quality plywood makes a big difference.
Midnight Railroader, could you elaborate on your bad experience. I'm definitely not talking about particle board here. In this region, OSB has pretty much completely replaced plywood in floor and roof decks as well as wall sheathing, and some heavier grades are being used in certain framing applications. Some of it has better structural properties, at least looking at the numbers, than most plywood and it's made with exterior glue. I'm thinking about using it for cantilever brackets for a section of double-deck around the wall layout.
CLICK HERE FOR THE CSX DIXIE LINE BLOG
ahuffman wrote: I'm thinking about using it for cantilever brackets for a section of double-deck around the wall layout.
I'm thinking about using it for cantilever brackets for a section of double-deck around the wall layout.
Unless you use double the thickness of a comparable sheet of plywood, OSB has no structural integrity and will warp or sag very easily. It is not as waterproof as plywood and will separate into many pieces if you use too much water during your scenery application.
I can definatly say do NOT use waferboard, and probably OSB unless it is very well supported. I am currently replacing a 4' x 24' section of wafer that had been topped with the Homosote substitute but not painted on the bottom. It was supported on the 4' edges and about every 4' along the length. After 10 years it was sagging inbetween the supports. I tried bracing up 1 section a few years ago, but the warp is too strong, and is showing up again.
I plan to go back with 5 layer half inch ply and add support between the existing, so the spacing will be closer to 2'. The good news is that track had never been laid on that section of the layout (only a temporary return loop).
Phil
Timber Head Eastern Railroad "THE Railroad Through the Sierras"
OSB, when properly supported will not sag. I had Plywood of similar thickness sag when I built one of my early layouts due to the fact I did not properly support it with crossmembers on 16" centers.
I have also found many other first time layout builders do the same thing as I did and try to cut corners with benchwork. It only comes back to get you in the end.
I am using OSB for my subroadbed on my latest layout (2500 sq ft). It is now 5 years old and the OSB is not showing any signs of sagging. But then I am running joists on 16" centers and usually a lot closer in places.
It all comes down to this if you cut corners, it will be a problem forever.
I could never understand why, if you didn't have the time to built it right in the beginning yet you can seem to find the time to go back and try and fix it after there is a problem due to lack of proper planning!?
I learned this early on with my first layouts and don't want to have try and fix things after the fact ever again - I ain't getting any younger!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
cmrproducts wrote:I could never understand why, if you didn't have the time to built it right in the beginning yet you can seem to find the time to go back and try and fix it after there is a problem due to lack of proper planning!?I learned this early on with my first layouts and don't want to have try and fix things after the fact ever again - I ain't getting any younger!