Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Once again, I don't see any reason to sand the Masonite, tempered or not. Any good-quality latex paint will stick to it just fine if the surface is clean and free of grease or oil. As for painting the back, whether it's smooth or rough, I wouldn't bother with that either, unless your layout is in the shower. (And in that case, your drywall screws will rust anyway.) Finally, for painting the face of it, wait until you've got it in place and the joints are all finished. You're liable to put fingerprints on it during installation and, if you're taping and mudding the seams, it'll get scuffed when you do the finishing work.
Wayne
My Masonite is installed smooth/shiny side out (to the front). I have primed one 8 foot section and the my primer adhered to it great without any preparation. I used Zinsser 1-2-3 Bullseye primer which was purchased at The Home Depot. Although I have not used this primer for backdrops before, I did use it for all of the trimwork in the basement where the layout is located. Six years and no problems to date
Do I read your post correctly in that you are installing your backdrop rough side out? Seems like you would want a smooth surface to paint the background scenery on.
Jamie
CLICK HERE FOR THE CSX DIXIE LINE BLOG
Here's a link to a lot of information about Masonite and other hardboard. I learned a few things and you might, too. Different types of board accept paint differently and S1S (smooth one side) is more flexible than S2S. Also, the two sides of S2S are not identical. Lots of reading, but worth checking out.
lvanhen wrote:You've already got the Masonite link, and that pretty much covers painting. DO NOT SAND THE SPACKLE!!!!! For that matter, don't sand anything indoors if you can help it!!! Spackle can be "sanded" with a damp sponge. Even years after application, spackle will soften with water as long as it hasn't been painted. Smoothing with a sponge creates no dust, which is one of the biggest bug-a-boos for a model RR!! Dirty track is one problem, but what spackle dust will do to the innards of a loco YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW!! My
Another good reason why layout room preparation should be done before the layout is even started. This includes walls/backdrop, ceiling, and floor (if necessary). Don't forget lighting and other electrical work, too. This may seem boring compared to "getting some trains running", but you'll end up with not only a better layout, but a more pleasant environment in which to build and operate it.
Capt,
I think you reading into this project too far. I have 1/8" Masonite backdrops that have been installed since 1988. They were screwed to 2x2 firing and then painted with a standard interior latex paint. As far as moisture; one side of the layout is against the laundry room. I am sure the folks who built your house did not paint/seal the framing before hanging the drywall! I have had no problems with moisture(and I live in Minnesota with wild temp/humidity swings).
I used sheetrock screws to attach the Masonite, and used the normal drywall mud/tape/sanding to cover the cracks. Only one small hairline crack ever materialized on a 25' section of the backdrop(and you really have to look for it). I have a 25' wall and a 20' wall that are exteior walls that the backdrop is attached to.
For the corners, I built 24" radius plywood formers out of 1/2" plywood and screwed them to the wall. the Masonite just wraps around the curve. I am sure you can get a small radius with 'soaking', but you can get down to 24" radius with no problems. If your backdrop is 4' deep, I would use 3 formers. Mine is 24" and just has one at th top and at the bottom of the Masonite.
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
That's a great link, Wayne! I'd put that in the "required reading" column for anybody working with the stuff!
Thanks!
Peter
I am sure some 1" or 2" foam will work, but I suspect plywood will be just as inexpensive.
Jim
I just do not understand why you are 'sanding' the shine off of the Masonite. My thoughts are that you will raise 'fuzzies' and when you paint it, they may show. I just wiped my Masonite with a damp cloth after the mud/tape/sanding phase and painted it with an interior flat latex, using a medium knapp paint roller.
BTW, what is 'keying'?