I thought you were using FastTracks. Or BK Enterprises. Or something.
Why not use the Barge Cement CV recommends? Goo was used for laying track because you could heat it with a soldering iron and make it flexible again. Not sure that would be a good idea with plastic ties.
Given the way Gorilla glue foams/expands as it dries I wouldn't use it.
Years ago I used Walther's Goo with wood ties - worked well. I think it should work with plastic. The trick is to use a small amount so it doesn't ooze out too much.
Enjoy
Paul
I wouldn't use anything but Barge.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1390196
alco_fan wrote: I thought you were using FastTracks. Or BK Enterprises. Or something.Why not use the Barge Cement CV recommends? Goo was used for laying track because you could heat it with a soldering iron and make it flexible again. Not sure that would be a good idea with plastic ties.
Lol. I am! haha... i've kinda got a hodge-podge of methods going... lol. The first turnout I built was with a BK Enterprises point/frog assembly. I'll probably build a few more to use as industrial spurs. I also bought a bunch of stuff from Andy's Proto87 Stores. I got 2 of his F&E #7 code 55 kits (which come with CNC points and his Ultimate Throwbar) and then 3 #7 tie-strips along with 3 of the detailed Details West planed-rail Code 70 #7 frogs, as well as an extra package of his Ultimate Throwbars to use with these.
I also bought the #7 pointform tool from Fast Tracks. Andy's Code 70 F&E kits only still come with the cast CV points, which I hate (even though all of his Ultimate turnouts come with the CNC points, and they're only a few dollars more than the F&E (F&E sell for $18 with the custom frog)... except that he sells the CNC points for $10, which is kind of bogus, considering that he also sells the wooden ties for a complete turnout for like $7, the Throwbar for $5, and then the tie-plates go for $10 and the frogs are $8 which doesn't make any sense, cuz if you were to buy the parts to make an Ultimate Turnout, it would run you over $35 when he only charges $21 for a #7 with the custom frog. if I were to buy the parts to get an F&E with the CNC points, it would cost me $4 for the tie-strip, $8 for the frog, $10 for the points, $5 for the Ultimate Throwbars, $2 for the basic details, about $4 for all the rail which is way more than an Ultimate turnout costs. bahhhhh).
So anyway.... i bought the Pointform tool to make points for my #7 Code 70 turnouts. I also got the rail from Fast Tracks because Andy charges like, almost double what Fast Tracks does.
Andy's head is in the right place.... but I really just have no idea where the hell he gets his pricing method from. It doesn't make ANY sense at all.
Oh yeah, I also bought a few of the old Precision Scale Products turnout kits, which come with a frog, points, and guard rails. Thats what the NEB&W uses, so I figured I'd give them a try.
I have a bunch of the #4 BK Enterprises point/frog assemblies that I'm not going to ever use if anyone would want them, diiiiirt freaking cheap.
DeadheadGreg wrote:Hey, quick question...... just wondering if its okay to use Walthers Goo to glue rail to the Central Valley tie-strips
I've glued my CV tie strips at Diamond Valley with white glue you use for wood.
I've changed the CV turnouts with PROTO:87 frogs and now I'm changing to PROTO:87 throw bars. This pic shows a turnout, scratchbuild and soldered to PC board ties with PROTO:87 throw bar:
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
Yes, you can use Goo.
I use it to glue the guard rails on Micro-Engineering flex bridge track. It will come up again if you are CAREFUL.
Use what you are comfortable with that will do the job at hand.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.