-Morgan
Splines are held up from underneath by L-girder type benchwork or box benchwork, right?
Just as there are uprights to spline, there can be uprights from benchwork to hold scenery. If scenery is very undulating, up and down, it would be good for there to be profile boards. That was what was used for screen-wire-and-plaster scenery from about 1930 on, and Hydrocal hard-shell from ca 1960 on. Lots of people now using foam scenery. I am but mine is mostly flat for a coastal town only a few feet above sea level. You could use a flat base for scenery just below what general final scenery level is to be. That would allow most scenery to be built up above that line, and some to be cut down nearly to flat base piece.
So it too would go straigh to the grid. Nah, I;m thinking of going into the mountains.
Profile boards? I;ve probabl;y seen them before, but not with that name.
Another very easy scenery base is to use a web of cardboard strips. Cardboard (regular old corrugated boxes) are cut into 3/4 - 1 inch strips. The strips are hotglued or stapled to the spline and then to the fascia, then a other strips are woven between them to form a web of card board strips. This is covered with brown paper dipped in glue, hardshell (paper dipped in plaster) or plaster impregnated gause. You can also build up layers of foam or use aluminum screen wire.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Grampy's got it.
Grampy: Yep, that;s what I was missing was the visuals between wood and scenery.
Thanks all.
That looks very effective.
I used aluminum window screening and hot glue to stick the sides of the cut screen to the sides of the spline roadbed. If the span was such that the screen was likely to sag when I slopped on the ground goop, I merely stuffed plastic shopping bags with crumpled newspaper and stuff the bags below the screen.
Some folks make a papier mache surface and then add plaster rocks or whatever when it hardens sufficiently. Many ways to add terrain to a layout.