I am modeling in HO scale. I have never laid my own track. I am considering trying to lay turnouts myself. My goals are smooth operating turnouts at a cost near or below the cost of an average turnout. I will operate the turnouts manually or with tortises.
Am I dreaming? What advice does anyone have for me?
Which is the best product for a beginner?
What tools must I have?
Can I really make turnouts to suit my location?
Are they really so easy to build or is this rocket science?
What other questions should I be asking?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.cvmw.com/
No specialty tools. No expensive jigs. No fuss. No muss. They look and work GREAT and cost about $9/turnout without rail. So you can pick what code you want.. Available in #5-#9.http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=central+valley
Speaking as one who handlays all specialwork, it is NOT rocket science, and a custom-designed turnout fitted to the exact requirement of your track plan can be had for about the MSRP of a length of flex track.
Tools? A BIG fine-cut flat file, spiking pliers, a soldering tool that will provide a LOT of heat quickly, two three point track gauges and an NMRA gauge. If you hand-cut your own ties, add a fine saw and a small framing square. Also a drill and the small bits needed to make holes in PC board throw bar material.
Admittedly, there is a learning curve, and your first efforts will seem to take a lot of time and be somewhat short of cosmetically perfect. Don't let that discourage you.
The most important thing is, don't accept poor quality at any point. If a point isn't properly shaped, work on it until it is. If something comes out short, toss it and make another. Rail is cheap (especially if it's salvaged from damaged flex and sectional track bought at yard sales.)
There is nothing like watching a train of derailment-prone cars backing through your newly-laid turnout at track speed without a bobble. Try it. You'll like it.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Thanks for the links and advice guys. I think I might give handlaying turnouts a try.
Chuck, I know what an NMRA gauge is and I googled the three point gauge so I know what it looks like but what is it's purpose/application? Will the instructions explain what points on the turnout I will use said gauges for? Sorry fo being so ignorant about this but that's how it is at the moment.
One of the reasons I am keen to handlay turnouts is to be able to lay my own curved turnouts one day. Is this something I might be able to do easily once I have mastered laying a straight turnout?
Thanks again for your help you guys!
Kevin
A 3 point gage keeps the rail at the correct distant apart. I have used screws nuts and washers to space rail. Or if you have a drill press you can file grooves in a plastic rod the width of the rails. Google proto 87 for tie plates and cast frogs. For a little money you can super detail your most visible turnouts. Most of the mainline turnouts I have seen have cast manganize frogs.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
A three point gauge is a little gadget that looks either like a horseshoe or like a triangle. For the horseshoe type, there is a rail-riding slot at the end of each leg and one at the center of the curve. The one slot rides the inside rail of a curve (including the curved stock rail of a turnout) while the two outer-end slots ride on the outside rail, holding it in gauge while you spike it. The NMRA gauge is for final checks and for verifying flangeway clearances.
The triangular three-point gauge works the same way. Which apex goes where will be obvious once you look at it.
BlueHillsCPR wrote: Thanks for the links and advice guys. I think I might give handlaying turnouts a try.Chuck, I know what an NMRA gauge is and I googled the three point gauge so I know what it looks like but what is it's purpose/application? Will the instructions explain what points on the turnout I will use said gauges for? Sorry fo being so ignorant about this but that's how it is at the moment. One of the reasons I am keen to handlay turnouts is to be able to lay my own curved turnouts one day. Is this something I might be able to do easily once I have mastered laying a straight turnout? Thanks again for your help you guys!
Central Valley turnouts can all be built as curved turnouts very easily.
Thanks again guys!
I've got some shopping to do!
Chuck, if you don't mind my asking, what products are you using to handlay your turnouts?
Lothar, the Central Valley link was very informative. Thanks again for that.
hey dude. Something that I would recommend doing is getting some BK Enterprises point/frog assemblies. This way, you can practice spiking rail without worrying about soldering/creating a frog and creating points. This is what I did, and I am so glad that I did it. It was great practice. I simply took a Central Valley template, glued it on a piece of luan plywood, and then glued Micro Engineering ties onto the template.
Also check out www.handlaidtrack.com Its the Fast Tracks website. Its such a helpful site, with tons of videos and user guides. They're great people.
I, personally, am using the Central Valley tie strips with Details West frogs. For my Code 55 turnouts, I'm using the CNC/milled 3-way-planed points from Andy's Proto 87 Stores. For Code 70 turnouts, I bought the Pointform tool from Fast Tracks. I'll be making my guard rails from actual rail, and I'll be using Andy's Ultimate Throwbar on every turnout. The cast frogs cost me a bit more, but to me, its worth it.
www.proto87.com Help Andy out and give him your business, he is very deserving of it.
You could also use homasote turnout pads from Homabed, or make your own.
The thing with handlaying is that, typically, the up-front cost is more, just for supplies. Ie: you'll pay more for enough supplies for 10 turnouts than you would for 2 RTR turnouts. But its typically not that much more.
I had bought the BK Enterprise point/frog assemblies just to practice on. The practice one I built will be incorporated into my layout as a spur/industry turnout. I have a bunch of #4 point/frog assemblies that I know I won't ever be using (probably). If you want, i'd be happy to give you one to practice on. They're code 70.
BlueHillsCPR wrote: Chuck, if you don't mind my asking, what products are you using to handlay your turnouts?
Assuming you mean raw materials, what I'm currently using for Code 100 turnouts on hidden track is salvaged (from damaged flex track or yard-sale sectional track) rail, sheet balsa (I cut my ties from medium-hard sheet with a razor saw) and fine spikes. (I bought the spikes a long time ago at a hobby shop in Tokyo that no longer advertises in Tetsudo Mokei Shumi.) Solder is 60-40 electronic solder and soldering paste is Burnley's non-acid.
When I surface into the visible world, I'll have to come up with Code 83 rail from whatever source is cheapest, and when I run out of spikes I'll have to try the finest I can obtain from a Stateside supplier. That's still some time in the future - I originally thought I'd handlay my planned-at-the-time layout four spikes per tie, so I have a LOT of spikes.
I suggest Central Valley turnouts together with PROTO 87 frogs and throw bars!
I've soldered many turnouts, but my latest were the above. The pic shows a soldered turnout with PROTO:87 throw bar.
You will find my HOW TO under Diamond Valley turnouts and scratch build turnouts.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
I am using Kappler Lumber ties stained with thinned leather dye, code 70 and 55 rail from Micro Engineering, ME small spikes. I layout out my track center lines, glue a paper template of a switch made by reducing a prototype switch diagram to HO scale to the Homasote roadbed. I glue the ties to the template matching the tie ends to the uneven "curved" side on the template. after they dry, I cut across the straight side to trim them to length.
Here is a switch I recently laid:
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Great advice and information! The pics of the finished products look incredible! You guys are all true craftsmen!
Wolfgang, thanks very much for those links!
I hope I can get to the point where I can lay something that comes close to the awesome work I'm seeing here. Thanks so much for your advice!
Greg, thanks for the kind offer. I may be in touch.
wedudler wrote: I suggest Central Valley turnouts together with PROTO 87 frogs and throw bars!I've soldered many turnouts, but my latest were the above. The pic shows a soldered turnout with PROTO:87 throw bar. You will find my HOW TO under Diamond Valley turnouts and scratch build turnouts.Wolfgang
Hey Wolfgang, do you have any plans on making a turnout with hinged points?
I've used CV turnouts. But with my soldered turnouts I came across another idea.
I've made the point rails and closure rails from one piece of rail like you see at my website. For the hinges I weaken the base of the rail like you see in the Fast Track video. Take you rail nipper and cut off a piece of base, or use a file.
Then I cut with a saw, you see here the fine blade saw, only the top of the rail:
When you at last attache a rail joint to both sides of the rail you have a real hinge. At least it looks like the real hinge.