Years agon I built a layout with the idea that I would want to take it apart and move it one day. I laid the track across the sections where modules joined and cut with a dremel. I initially fastened the sections together with screws when I was building the benchwork. Then I installed 3-1/2" butt hinges overlapping the joined sections. Once the hinges were in place I removed the screws. To disasemble I simply pulled the pins from the hinges. Putting it back together was a simple as aligning the hinges and replacing the pins. The hardest part was making the scenery hide the joints effectively as I recall.
BTW, I was using open grid benchwork at the time.
Dear nik_n_dad,
I myself built a modular style of benchwork and found out afterwards just how critical the layout joints are and how to join them the right way to make it easy to unhook the modules to make them easier to align them again. Do some reach at the NMRA web site, it has all of the standards of modular construction and cover the subject very well.
http://www.nmra.org/
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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Never have done it, but am thinking of it, so have looked at a number of modular layouts at shows. They all use a short section of track between the modules (saves the track from getting damaged when sections are being moved). Most articles I have read, is to clamp the modules together and drill several bolt holes through both sections. If you are going to move it often they use wing nuts, if you only take it apart when you change houses, reqular nuts would just take a little longer. I'm not sure the modular criteria (Ntrack or others) includes how to hitch the sections together or not, but I would thiink so. Not sure what their site is, maybe someone else can help. Some that don't move as often have also used alignment pegs, there again clamp the two sections together, drill and tap in the pegs, usually have a bolt or two to hold it together.
Good luck,
Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
I have modules built to free-mo standards and the joints for the tracks are 2" sections removed from the ties. I slide a rail joiner on each end set the rail where I'm connectiong modules and slide the joiners onto the layout tracks.
For more info on Free-mo and to see what I'm taling about in thier standards, go to http://www.free-mo.org. Granted it's HO scale, but you could use the same basic priciples for N.
cowman wrote: Never have done it, but am thinking of it, so have looked at a number of modular layouts at shows. They all use a short section of track between the modules (saves the track from getting damaged when sections are being moved). Most articles I have read, is to clamp the modules together and drill several bolt holes through both sections. If you are going to move it often they use wing nuts, if you only take it apart when you change houses, reqular nuts would just take a little longer. I'm not sure the modular criteria (Ntrack or others) includes how to hitch the sections together or not, but I would thiink so. Not sure what their site is, maybe someone else can help. Some that don't move as often have also used alignment pegs, there again clamp the two sections together, drill and tap in the pegs, usually have a bolt or two to hold it together.Good luck,
As far as protecting the ends, when you take it apart to move, simply screw some scrap 1/4" plywood to the ends that sticks up to protect the track.
I would use a razor saw, not a dremel to cut the track.
This person is building a layout that can be moved such as when the family moves to a new house, which is different that building a module that is moved from place to place often.
As far as hiding the seam of the scenery, again since this is moved infrequently, I would put ground covers over the seam and then when I was ready to move, I'd use a razor blade to care fully cut the grond cover along the seam. After the move it complete there would be some 'touch up' needed.
nik_n_dad wrote:What's the best way to lay the track between the individual modules\sections? There will be multiple tracks that cross each module's boundary.
On my layout, I used double sheets of 2-inch foam board for the layout surface. For bridging the gap, what I did was use 3-inch length straight snap track so that there isn't a joint right where the benchwork/roadbed joint is. I took a yard stick and then drew lines parallel to the joints on either side so that when laying track I would know where to stop laying flextrack and insert one of the "joiner" tracks. It's basically the same method that I've seen in modular clubs, only their joiner tracks, I believe are a bit longer.
There are lots of in progress pics of my layout on my website that you're welcome to view for reference.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
I am using the Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system for my layout. The stands are easy to put together and they come in 3 easily managed sizes:
1. Straight sections measure 3 feet x 18 inches wide.
2. Corner sections measure 3 feet x 3 feet.
3. Square sections measure 3 feet x 3 feet.
The only difference between the corner sections and the square sections is the stand as the corner setion is cut on an angle that leaves two sides at 18 inches with a diagonal between them. There is little mess so you don't have to put sections in the garage to build them though you could do that two. Its light weight but strong enough to handle HO scale and you can make the straight sections 24 inches wide if you wish with a little extra support to hold the extra 6 inches.
Now it may cost a more to do it this way but it is a lot lighter than the Sievers but just as strong. And if you need to put a section in between that is less than 3 feet long that cane easily be accomplished too. I have one wall wich measures 9 feet 7 inches in usable length. I am going to have a corner module, a straight module and another corner module with a 7 inch extension along that wall.
Irv
I never built any modules myself, but there should be some ideas on this site:
http://www.carendt.com
Hope this helps.
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OzarkBelt
Nice link
For our club layout we use a mix. On the mainlines they have to have span connectors that have been described above. Atlas sectional track is great in this regard. In between modules that are owned by one person we have two methods. Method one is the span connectors method Two is: Solder brass tubing to the outside of the rails. Use your saw (not your Dremel) to cut the track in two. Take some piano wire and make pins/keys to place within the tubes. I have four tracks that use this method and one of our members has twenty. The real downside to this method is that you have to know how to lay good benchwork(so it don't shift) good track work (so it don't shift) and be patient making the keys. The wire can be a bit stiff for smaller pliers.
The first main line for me is 2 inches in (center), so if you got the modules square then both will line up. When you pick how far in from the sides you want, messure that distance then draw the lines. Now it might be better if you build one module then hook it to the next module. If you have one module with the track on you can judge where you want the next modules track should be.
As for the joints I use plain old atlas straight track. They come in usaly 6 inch sections. The way both my dad and I do it, is to cut one of them in half. As this is only half use it to get the spacing on the joints of the modules. When the modules are put together, you only need to put a spacer track to conect the modules.
Hi Nik_n_Dad,
I use the bolts and wing nuts method myself to be sure they line up right, but I have seen one report of a person who used a combination of wooden dowels and bolts. I think short sectional track between the modular tracks would be the best way to go. I haven't done this but, thinking about it, you could probably use small sections of flextrack which would have a little more flexibility in lining up right when reconnected. I agree with putting the scenery and ballast down to cover the seam of the sections as you usually do and then cutting through with a sharp knife when you're ready to move. It shouldn't be too much trouble to fix up the scenery at the seams when they're put back together, using a sprinkling of ground cover, ballast and shrubs or undercover brush.