Benchwork and Track

[Anonymous]

I think I need to makeup and drop flyers off to the hobby stores after going to Maine benchworks site. Maybe I could roll money made from benchwork into my own layout. Although I think plyood ripped down would be more stable instead of solid 1 x material. Also I think cross supports have to be movable in case a switch machine falls on one. I also think I could do it for half the price!

[Anonymous]

I saw these guys at the springfield ma show back in feb. nice looking benchwork, the website is miannebenchwork.com . also check out a thread on the O gauge forum about this benchwork, it was a few weeks ago so you might have to search or scroll a few pages to find it but it makes good reading if you are thinking about prefab benchwork.

[Anonymous]

David, I had to ask about compatability regarding Peco turnouts and Atlas track as well... Even though I ultimately decided to use Peco track and turnouts, there isn't any incompatability between the Peco turnout and Atlas track rail profiles. As a matter of fact, even though I'm using all Peco, I opted to use the Atlas rail joiners rather than Peco because of cost, and the Atlas look better than the Peco.

Peco track and turnouts are definately more expensive than Atlas. My choice to go with the Peco was simply a matter of my taste and as I said before, I like the look of the Peco better. Other than that, there is nothing wrong with Atlas!

Also, keep in mind that Peco is releasing a lower profile track. I believe it's code 70??? I would like to have used the code 70 stuff, but I already purchased 2 boxes of flex and 14 turnouts... I have yet to see any of the code 70 online or in the shops...

Rey.

[Anonymous]

I used a different approach. I went to Lowe's and bought some 8' long metal studs and 10' track that goes with it. Its light weight and only requires very basic tools to work .
I cut the studs to 47 15/16" long and the track into 2' lengths. I made modules 2' x 4' with an additional stud in the middle of the short side. I then attached 1/4" plywood to one side . I built some supports out of 1"x4"s bolted the modules together then used a bunch of 2" C clamps to attach the platform to the supports/legs.
You can use self-drilling screws or pop rivets to fasten the metal studs together. I used what are called Pan Framer screws on the bottom and 3/16" pop rivets on the side I attached the plywood to. The reason I used the pop rivets is the the profile of the head of the rivet is lower so there isn't so much of a bump in the plywood when you attach it.

[Anonymous]

Home depot and some Lowes have a tool rental that have reasonable rates.

Also if you get your lumber ahead of time, do your layout on all your pieces.

I would however have them rip any plywood on their panel saw.

[Anonymous]

To be fair to Atlas, they do make good track and turnouts and I still plan on using them again. On my first layout I had electrical continuity problems with a couple out of a dozen. I traced it down to a little piece of metal not making contact to one of the lead rails (the rail that leads from the point rail to the frog). Atlas uses a Rivet as a pivot for the point rail. That rivet also makes the electrical connection (sometimes not) to the lead rail. Go to http://www.nmra.org/beginner/to_parts.gif to see what I'm talking about. An experienced modeler taught me to solider a small jumper wire between the point rail to the lead rail.

I don't have any experience with Peco turnouts and track. They should be compatible as long as they are the same code, otherwise you would need transistion track or joiners (e.g. code 100 to code 75). Peco also makes narrow gage track (HOn3-1/2 & HOn2-1/2) which will not work with any standard gage track, only narrow gage.

P.S.
Check out the replies from a question I posted on forum, How Many Layouts Have You Built and What Did You Learn From Them. They are a wealth of knowledge for the beginner.
Also see N.M.R.A.'s Beginning Model Railroading

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the info. Even though a number of you have made the bechwork part seem easy, knowing my lack of woodworking skills and tools, my inclination is to go with Sievers and spend the extra money.

Regarding Atlas and Peco, can I mix the two? Atlas 100 track and Peco turnouts.

As I said in my initial message, I'm just getting started and will need all the professional, experienced advice I can get.

Thanks for your reply and your welcome. Have a great day.

David

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by sav336

David,

I too am stepping from design to construction. Benchwork was a question for me as past layouts were always 4x8 sheet or shelf type. Being midly of experienced with wood work by doing my own renovations, repairs, etc., around the house, I didn't have an issue with cutting boards (though I loathe woodworking, not good at it...).

I bought "Basic model railroad benchwork" by Jeff Wilson for ideas. Great book to get started with. After a few bathroom sessions with the book, I was ready to get materials. So I picked up the materials on Thursday after work, took Friday off because I have to work Saturday, and started my bench work at about 9 AM. By 1:30, I had 3 sections built, 2 2x8 ft and one corner piece 2 ft on ends and 4 ft on both back sides. Cost of materials was 66.00 or so including Tee Nuts and adjustable feet, and 5# of screws and a bottle of glue.

I thought it would take all day to build this bench work, and was really suprized at how quickly it went. So much so, that I ended up going back to the lumber shop and picking up a coupl of 4X8 sheets of 2" foam for the top. ( I omitted plywood on the top because I spaced my "joists" at 12 inches. Just for kicks, I stacked a few boxes of misc iron pipe fittings, about 70 # worth right at center span of my 8 foot sections, and there was no noticable deflection anywhere!

The benchwork process isn't as bad as I though, I guess the really important part is having a well though out plan of all your parts and dimensions, and then the usual measure twice, cut once routine...

As far as the track work is concerned, I don't have anything bad to say about the Atlas stuff. I ALWAYS used it in the past. Although, this time around, I'm using Peco products, simply because I like the look of their turnouts much more than Atlas's. The insulated frog turnout has a very appealing look to in, especially at the frog.

Let us know which way you go with the benchwork! And Welome to our forum!

[Anonymous]

David,

I too am stepping from design to construction. Benchwork was a question for me as past layouts were always 4x8 sheet or shelf type. Being midly of experienced with wood work by doing my own renovations, repairs, etc., around the house, I didn't have an issue with cutting boards (though I loathe woodworking, not good at it...).

I bought "Basic model railroad benchwork" by Jeff Wilson for ideas. Great book to get started with. After a few bathroom sessions with the book, I was ready to get materials. So I picked up the materials on Thursday after work, took Friday off because I have to work Saturday, and started my bench work at about 9 AM. By 1:30, I had 3 sections built, 2 2x8 ft and one corner piece 2 ft on ends and 4 ft on both back sides. Cost of materials was 66.00 or so including Tee Nuts and adjustable feet, and 5# of screws and a bottle of glue.

I thought it would take all day to build this bench work, and was really suprized at how quickly it went. So much so, that I ended up going back to the lumber shop and picking up a coupl of 4X8 sheets of 2" foam for the top. ( I omitted plywood on the top because I spaced my "joists" at 12 inches. Just for kicks, I stacked a few boxes of misc iron pipe fittings, about 70 # worth right at center span of my 8 foot sections, and there was no noticable deflection anywhere!

The benchwork process isn't as bad as I though, I guess the really important part is having a well though out plan of all your parts and dimensions, and then the usual measure twice, cut once routine...

As far as the track work is concerned, I don't have anything bad to say about the Atlas stuff. I ALWAYS used it in the past. Although, this time around, I'm using Peco products, simply because I like the look of their turnouts much more than Atlas's. The insulated frog turnout has a very appealing look to in, especially at the frog.

Let us know which way you go with the benchwork! And Welome to our forum!

[Anonymous]

Building your own benchwork is not that difficult, just remember to cut twice and measure once...errr wait...that's Visit Home Depot or Lowes (or any other place that'll do it) and have them cut the wood for you. go home, drill holes for screws (believe me you'll want to do this to avoid splitting the wood) assemble with drywall screws and you have a benchwork.

Note: this is a condensed version, please get the abover mentioned book to show you measurements and placements of various parts, as well as the various ways you can build a benchwork to fit your needs.

Jay

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by IRONROOSTER

Life is too short to do the unfun things you can avoid.......
......I will say though that the carpentry skills required here are not that difficult. Also, a radial arm saw or table saw is not required, though it does make it easier.

Paul is right, the carpentry skills are not that tough especially if you read the benchwork bible How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork (click on the book title) and you don't need expensive power tools to butcher your own wood. You still have to screw the boards together with the Sieviers benchwork (a variable speed drill motor with a driver bit is highly recomended to save your arm and wrist)
In fact, it got me thinking how hard everything was to build when there was no such thing as a power tool. Saw a piece of 2x4 lumber with a hand saw to see what I mean. Now imagine building a house! You would burn up so many calories you won't have to be on a diet to loose weight. I think I'll write a diet book and call it "The Wood Butchers Diet". [swg]

[IRONROOSTER]

One of the trade offs in the hobby is time and money. You can spend money for Sievers bench work or spend time to build your own. If a phase of the hobby doesn't appeal to you, then spend the money to get it done quickly. Life is too short to do the unfun things you can avoid.

I will say though that the carpentry skills required here are not that difficult. Also, a radial arm saw or table saw is not required, though it does make it easier. I built my first three layouts using a cheap jigsaw and 1/4" drill. For my current one I did use a radial arm saw, because I have one, but i could have done just as well without it.

When I was in HO, Atlas track worked very well for me. Check through the topics here, there have been several on the merits of different track manufacturers.

Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: I'm considering Sievers Benchwork. Are they worth the cost?

A buddy of mine bought Sievers benchwork. It cost him a small fortune, but yes it worth it just for the quality of the lumber.
Figure if you buy a table or radial arm saw (and you're not going to use it for anything else), deal with the saw dust, the space it takes up and buy the same quality lumber (if you can find it) it's worth it.
Buy the way, my friend disassembled his layout and gave me the lumber.

QUOTE: ....Atlas code 100 and all Atlas #6 Custom-Line turnouts......... Should I go with the two Atlas products?

Yes but......
I had some electrical reliability issues with the Atlas turnouts with the rivited point rails. Maybe some one else will have a better suggestion on this subject.

[Anonymous]

I'm prepared to go from the drawing board to reality. I'm not a carpenter so I'm considering Sievers Benchwork. Are they worth the cost? Seems to me from what I've read, they are. Second, in MRP 2004 I read the David Barrow article about how easy Atlas code 100 and all Atlas #6 Custom-Line turnouts were to use. I realize they're not prototype and I don't want to offend the prototype people because I greatly admire your skills, but my main interest is operation. Should I go with the two Atlas products?