nik_n_dad,
Even though I don't have any personal experience with them, I've heard good things about Sievers Benchwork. Course, you'll pay for the pre-cutting, drilling, and weight of shipping...but it's supposed to yield a very fine end product.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
cuyama wrote:Two of my clients have used Sievers and had good experiences.
It's what I used on my layout when I did my benchwork. I highly recommend them. The only thing I had to drill was a couple holes that didn't line up correctly on each of the corner modules that I made out of four of their kits. You can see pics of the progress on my website (http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html).
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
Hi,
I can highly recommend Sievers. I worked with them to design and build benchwork for my basement size layout and they were wonderful. When you consider the quality of the wood itself, let alone the precision, it just makes sense.
See pictures and comments of my layout at http://www.shindledecker.com/benchworkconstruction.
Regards,
Greg
Greg Shindledecker Modeling the =WM= Thomas Sub in the mid-70s
nik_n_dad wrote:What have been some of the experiences with folks using the commercial modular benchmark builders? I've been trying to work with one of them, but never get any responses to queries. Who are good ones, bad ones and why?Thanks ahead of time
I looked at a few of them but decided that this is an expensive way to go about building benchwork. Since I am also not a carpenter and odn't have any heavry woodworking tools (and if i did I woldn't know how to use them) I decided to go with the Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system for my benchwork and layout base. Not everyone likes it, and it may not be the least expensive route either. but for me it's the best of all worlds since it's simple and I can build it by myself.
The system is made up of three types of modules.
The straight modules measure 18 inches by 36 inches. The corner modules and square modules both measure 36 inches by 36 inches. The corner modules don't cover the entire 3 squre feet since the have 5 sides one of which measure 25.5 inches. Take a look at the Woodland Scenics website to see it.
www.woodlandscenics.com
I am not associate in any way with Woodland Scenics.
Irv
chatanuga wrote: cuyama wrote:Two of my clients have used Sievers and had good experiences.It's what I used on my layout when I did my benchwork. I highly recommend them. The only thing I had to drill was a couple holes that didn't line up correctly on each of the corner modules that I made out of four of their kits. You can see pics of the progress on my website (http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html).Kevin
Like the layout - but PLEASE PAINT THE WALLS!! You won't believe the dirt & dust that will come out of the block - giving you all kinds of problems!! A drop ceiling would be a good idea before you get any scenery done. My
I used Mianne, well made and easy to put together. I found Tim responsive and extremely helpful. I'd be surprised if he didn't respond to your inquiries. Try calling him.
Mike
lvanhen wrote: chatanuga wrote: cuyama wrote:Two of my clients have used Sievers and had good experiences.It's what I used on my layout when I did my benchwork. I highly recommend them. The only thing I had to drill was a couple holes that didn't line up correctly on each of the corner modules that I made out of four of their kits. You can see pics of the progress on my website (http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html).KevinLike the layout - but PLEASE PAINT THE WALLS!! You won't believe the dirt & dust that will come out of the block - giving you all kinds of problems!! A drop ceiling would be a good idea before you get any scenery done. My
As I said on my site, I can't paint the walls or put a drop ceiling in. I rent my townhouse.
I used the Woodland Scenics product for my N scale layout as it was much easier for me to work with at my age. Here are some photos:
Jerry
Rio Grande vs. Santa Fe.....the battle is over but the glory remains!
jwils1 wrote: I used the Woodland Scenics product for my N scale layout as it was much easier for me to work with at my age. Here are some photos:
I'm only 59 but I am not a carpenter nor do I have alot of woodworking equipment. That's why I choose the Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system.
Looking at the your photos it seems that you have put blue foam on top of the stands. Am I right?
corsair7 wrote: jwils1 wrote: I used the Woodland Scenics product for my N scale layout as it was much easier for me to work with at my age. Here are some photos: I'm only 59 but I am not a carpenter nor do I have alot of woodworking equipment. That's why I choose the Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system. Looking at the your photos it seems that you have put blue foam on top of the stands. Am I right? Irv
Irv:
Yes I placed 2" blue styrofoam directly on the framing. I wanted a 24" width so I let the foam overhang the framing by 6". It's very strong and does this with no problems. At the corners I wanted a greater width as well to get a larger radius for a loop so I added an outrigger to gain more width, but again had 6" overhangs all around.
I finished the edges of the foam with 4" x 1/4" painted balsa wood glued to the foam with adhesive caulk. I maybe could have installed my UP5 Digitrax plug-in panels in the balsa but was afraid it might not be strong enough so located them on the outrigger boards at each corner. My N scale layout is 24" x 15' long with 42" x 42" tapered corner sections at each end.
Many would probably frown on my methods but I look for the easy way for me to construct things so I can get on with running trains. It's all working out just fine for me. Here is a photo of one of the corner outriggers:
I, too, use the Woodland Scenics' Mod-U-Rail system. The price is great, the shipping is fast, and the modules are easy to assemble. The quality is fair.
I take the modules outside and paint them a dark green. The dog was not included.
A friend of mine cuts up some old paneling to glue on the back as a backdrop.
They turn out pretty nice and are very sturdy, especially after being linked together.
The Cedar Branch & Western--The Hillbilly Line!
I still can't believe Tim hasn't responded to you.
Any other ideas? I looked at the websites and they all look like they would be good but I am a trying to find something a little cheaper. I am no carpenter and really would not build a good bench to run the trains on. I wanted to start with a 9X9 bench and add to it form there. I am not sure what that would cost with Sievers I emailed them so I will find out. I am trying to look at all options. Thanks.
Is there anywhere in NE Ohio that anyone knows where the benchwork is sold or is it all online??
Larry
Well, there is someone near here who has started a benchwork business (it's called Benchridge). He hasn't put up a website yet, but he's been very busy working with two different people on their benchwork. I have seen some of his designs and am impressed.
His e-mail is " the_ridge@juno.com " if you want to contact him.
In any event, good luck!
Roger Hensley= ECI Railroad - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/eci/eci_new.html == Railroads of Madison County - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/ =
jwils1 wrote: corsair7 wrote: jwils1 wrote: I used the Woodland Scenics product for my N scale layout as it was much easier for me to work with at my age. Here are some photos: I'm only 59 but I am not a carpenter nor do I have alot of woodworking equipment. That's why I choose the Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail system. Looking at the your photos it seems that you have put blue foam on top of the stands. Am I right? IrvIrv:Yes I placed 2" blue styrofoam directly on the framing. I wanted a 24" width so I let the foam overhang the framing by 6". It's very strong and does this with no problems. At the corners I wanted a greater width as well to get a larger radius for a loop so I added an outrigger to gain more width, but again had 6" overhangs all around.I finished the edges of the foam with 4" x 1/4" painted balsa wood glued to the foam with adhesive caulk. I maybe could have installed my UP5 Digitrax plug-in panels in the balsa but was afraid it might not be strong enough so located them on the outrigger boards at each corner. My N scale layout is 24" x 15' long with 42" x 42" tapered corner sections at each end.Many would probably frown on my methods but I look for the easy way for me to construct things so I can get on with running trains. It's all working out just fine for me. Here is a photo of one of the corner outriggers:
It looks great and I lke your idea and method for adding an outrigger. I was planning in doing something like that in various parts of the layout since even 36' is wide enoug for decent curves on which passenger and modern 89' freight cars will look good. I will need at least 4" inches to accomodate even 19" curves in N-Scale. I also need to insert fetter sections since three of the walls in will be using for the layout do not measure excat multiples of 36". I have one wall that gives me 11 feet of useable space. Anether measures 12' 3" and the third gives me 9' 7 inches. While those don't quite require an outrigger in intend to put them in so that the small modules I will insert between the Woodland Scenics products have some support.
dragenrider wrote: I, too, use the Woodland Scenics' Mod-U-Rail system. The price is great, the shipping is fast, and the modules are easy to assemble. The quality is fair. I take the modules outside and paint them a dark green. The dog was not included. A friend of mine cuts up some old paneling to glue on the back as a backdrop. They turn out pretty nice and are very sturdy, especially after being linked together.
I don't intend to paint mine but keep in their natural wood color. I will probably have some form of skirting so no one sees the benchwork nor the shelves I intend to install on the lower leg braces. I intend to put those drawer systems you see at Staples or Office Depot on those shelves and also to keep my railroad books and magazines down there as well.
I really should put my revised benchwork plan up so that everyone can see what it will finally like. The track plan is not finished and won't be until I decide what parts of Connecticut, New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania are going to be on the layout. That's going to take alot of research because I do want to be able to operate as closely as possible to what the real railroads did and do.