Hello everyone - I'm brand new to the forums. Just as a little background, I'm getting back into HO railroading after a short hiatus of 40+ years. I literally have boxes of carefully packed rolling stock that last saw light in 1964 when I was a kid. (If nothing else, they can definitely fill up a yard, and I'll run whatever new stuff I get).
I now have the time, money and room to build a great layout, and I know what I want to do. Having just returned from Alaska, I want to run the McKinley Explorer as well as the White Pass and Yukon. I've already found some Silver Series McKinley dome cars (not the starter set) and am thinking more about the layout based on the size of these cars.
What I envision is an equilateral L using a full sheet and a 1/2 sheet of 4x8 plywood. With that kind of room, I can see me laying track out the wazoo, but there's the third dimension I need help with - elevation. Given that this is going to be an Alaska mountainous theme anyway, clearly I need some grades, tunnels, etc. and I was thinking of having them at least in the center of the L , if not more.
So, having said all that (sorry!) any tips on visualizing and planning what is actually multiple layers/levels of track? Again, my only experience so far has been "flat", so I would welcome any suggestions on specific books, plans, etc., that will get me started.
Thanks very much, I appreciate it!
Tons has happened in the intervening years. I don't know if your accumulated stuff is still workable, but the hobby rolling items have improved drastically. You might wish to get into Digital Command Control (DCC) if you don't already know about it and have elected to stay with straight DC current. Do a search for tony'strainexchange and read his DCC primer. Basically, you can drive and play with trains, not drive the layout and its block switches...if you ever had those.
About your plans for a layout. Again, what will you be running typically, and the question is: what is the greatest height, via what grade, that I can reliably get my engines to climb? For the dimensions you are mentioning, you may have to contend with grades in the 3-4% range, and they can be quite a bother for a lone engine. You can double or triple head, however, and get your trains up that way. My point is, you need to mock it up and actually watch your typical trains climb the grade you'll need for your vision.
You should seriously draw your space in scale, insert a scale respresentation of your layout dimensions, and then doodle out trackplans until you get one that doesn't have huge grades and really tight curves. You'll want curves in the 20-30" range ideally, although the generally smallest often found on a sheet of plywood, typically, is 18" radius.
I'm just spouting off some ideas. If you would like to build in an interesting and varied track plan that won't have you bored in short order, I would advise you to find, borrow, or purchase (here at Kalmbach Publishing) a copy of the late John Armstrong's "Track Planning for Realistic Operation". It really gets you thinking seriously of pausing and building more than a figure 8 or an oval with a couple of sidings. Railroads earn revenue by switching cars in and out of industries. What kind? Are you going to do the WP&Y today, just excursion service, or as it was in the mid-50's?
You'll get more advice, and I have prattled on long enough. Good luck, and I hope you have a blast.
Dave,
This is a familiar cliche, I'm sure...but think outside the 4 X 8. Start with the operating scheme and track plan. Let the benchwork or "table size" conform to that; not the other way around. And yes, the John Armstrong book is invaluable.
There is a minimum clearance factor, from rail-top below to upper sub-roadbed, that must be allowed for. The distance from grade to over-crossing will depend largely upon the lengths of your trains and your ability to hide an unrealistic climb. If you're not familiar with "helix", check that out as well.
Back to my original point - your layout does not have to be made up of 4 X 8 components or fractions thereof.
chicochip
Thanks guys!
Just ordered the book since I had an Amazon order pending anyway. I'm looking forward to reading it and trying to apply it to what I want.
As far as WP&Y, I'm going with the current excursion train - except that it is actually an "up and back" and I want to build this as a loop(s) of some kind. In fact, this is the one that got me thinking of the elevation changes I would want, etc.
Regarding DCC, I am only now learning about it - but the local hobby shop seems to think that almost anything can be retrofitted for DCC and wants to see my engines. It certainly appears to be the way to go.
Again, thanks so much for the quick replies. I'll let you know what I decide to tackle as far as a layout.
- Harry
Ditto. If you want large changes in elevation the LEAST condusive benchwork is a plywood table top. If you want large changes in elevation L girder benchwork or possible open grid is your best bet.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
In my (not particularly) humble opinion, the best thing to do with a sheet of plywood is to cut it up into subgrade-shaped pieces suitable for supporting foam or cork roadbed. In addition to thinking outside of the 4 x 8 plywood (or wallboard) sheet module, you should look into the several alternative methods of building benchwork. Just enter benchwork in the search block, then settle down for a lot of reading.
John Armstrong actually designed a layout of the WP&Y, in On3, sized to fit in one stall of a 2-car garage. It's in his book, The Classic Layout Designs of John Armstrong. Some nice photos, too.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
You will get the most mainline track run from a layout that goes around the walls of a room versus a table type in the center of the room. It can be made in modular form so it can be taken apart and moved. My current layout (HO) is being built with 2x7 foot modules. (They actually varry from 18 to 24 inches wide and six to 8 foot long depending on track layout.) Basic framing is 1x3 furring strips, covered with 1/4 inch Luan plywood, then topped with one inch blue builders foam. The 2 foot width is wide enough for switching and scenery, but narrow enough so that I can reach everything. Scenery in front is ususlly low and increases in height (hills and mountains, or city buildings etc.) as you go toward the back. Building this way may not be your cup of tea, but it is another option.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.