Background: classic L-girder / joists / sub-roadbed on risers and cleats, etc. My subterrain is built up mostly using layers of 2" and 1/2" pink foam board fastened horizontally across the joists. For my other elevations I carved "ribs" out of the 1/2" foam and glued them vertically to form all of my contours, going down from the sub-roadbed for valleys and above the sub-roadbed for large hills and mountains.
Problem: now, how do I apply my WS Plaster Cloth / SE Plaster Wrap across my rib supports (about 4" - 6" apart) without the final, dried result having the "ribs" show through? I've tried some cadboard strips in the mix but they seem to create the same problem. I've tried working with window screen as a first layer but it is difficult to work with and sags some. I've followed some of the older MR threads on this topic and seen the use of miles of masking tape as a base layer layed across rib construction such as mine. I realize using SculptaMold comes in handy at this point but my thinking is that is for major sins, not trying to hide the support ribs. Advice from those experienced in this area appreciated, as always. Thanks.
I made a cardboard skeleton under my screen with a hot glue gun.
I'd recommend you get your plaster cloth off of E-Bay or from a medical supply store. MUCH cheaper!http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=plaster+cloth
I use wadded newspaper in a plastic bag so the plaster cloth won't soak it, or bubble wrap, smooth side up over cardboard strips under the plastercloth.
I also wear latex gloves like EMTs wear. It makes the plaster cloth easier to handle because it doesn't stick like it does to a bare hand, and after you just peel the gloves off and throw them away. No cleanup.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I use the tops cut off styrofoam egg cartons to flesh out my landforms. The papier mâché ones should work just as well. They can be stapled to the supports and they will even tolerate hot glue. You can glue them together to make longer or wider strips. Then I just put the plaster cloth over them. For the final coat, I use drywall compound.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
mrnimble wrote:Background: classic L-girder / joists / sub-roadbed on risers and cleats, etc. My subterrain is built up mostly using layers of 2" and 1/2" pink foam board fastened horizontally across the joists. For my other elevations I carved "ribs" out of the 1/2" foam and glued them vertically to form all of my contours, going down from the sub-roadbed for valleys and above the sub-roadbed for large hills and mountains.Problem: now, how do I apply my WS Plaster Cloth / SE Plaster Wrap across my rib supports (about 4" - 6" apart) without the final, dried result having the "ribs" show through? I've tried some cadboard strips in the mix but they seem to create the same problem. I've tried working with window screen as a first layer but it is difficult to work with and sags some. I've followed some of the older MR threads on this topic and seen the use of miles of masking tape as a base layer layed across rib construction such as mine. I realize using SculptaMold comes in handy at this point but my thinking is that is for major sins, not trying to hide the support ribs. Advice from those experienced in this area appreciated, as always. Thanks.
In their two volume scenery video set model-trains-video.com shows using masking tape to cover a cardboard mesh. I found this worked very well for me (much better then stretching cheesecloth over a cardboard mesh then painting on plaster). The 'droppage' between strips nearly disappeared. I suspect this method would work well for you too if you put squares of plaster cloth over the masking tape.
On my 1st (4x8) BC&SJ layout scenery was chickenwire covered with paster cloth squares. I didn't bother with dunking in a bucket. Instead I cut about 8"x8" squares and held them in place with one hand and squirted them with water until soggy with the other hand.
Good luck,
Regards,
Charlie Comstock