To clarify a bit:
The staging tracks would be fixed. Only the one-track traverser would move.
The traverser would move in an L (as seen from the end) with the vertical leg to the rear and the horizontal leg at the bottom. The lift fork would be fixed to whatever vertical structure supports it, but the traverser would not be fixed to the tines of the fork.
Using a screw lift would be a huge overkill. The total weight of a cassette designed like your traverser, fully loaded with my heaviest (steel - no lie!) cars and locomotive, is less than ten pounds. A simple pull cord (with a positive latch mechanism at the top) would probably handle the load.
To power the traverser itself, depend on something that only transmits power when the traverser is properly positioned for train movement. Also, you should arrange some kind of positive off switch (operated by the traverser) for at least one train length of the upper level approach track. I didn't do that, but when a long cassette isn't being worked I have a very short cassette with a solid end-of-track bumper to replace it. Your traverser doesn't lend itself to that option.
One other advantage to a completely free traverser. When it's at the bottom of its travel it can be turned end-for-end, so trains in your staging tracks will always be ready to depart with the locomotive at the appropriate end.
Hope this is helpful.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
tomikawaTT wrote:Why use thick wood when you can use a nice, light, thin-bottomed steel stud? If the track is laid rain-gutter fashion, it even provides guard rails.If you do all your lateral moving on the lower (staging) level, your lift can be something similar to a pair of short fork lift tines riding on drawer slides. The tines would drop below the transverse slides and the traverser could be moved into alignment by the five-digit switcher (aka human hand.) Since the support would be more toward the center, there is even less need for a super-stiff traverser.To put this into perspective, I use steel stud cassettes to move rolling stock onto and off my layout. My longest cassette is 54 inches long. For loading/unloading it is supported at the extreme ends. It stores on shelf brackets on 32 inch centers. Track is Atlas code 100 flex, caulked down with latex caulk with a layer of 10mm thick extruded foam between the ties and the steel. Electrical power is handled through the rail joiners at the end - not a problem, since the locomotive always backs its train onto the cassette.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Why use thick wood when you can use a nice, light, thin-bottomed steel stud? If the track is laid rain-gutter fashion, it even provides guard rails.
If you do all your lateral moving on the lower (staging) level, your lift can be something similar to a pair of short fork lift tines riding on drawer slides. The tines would drop below the transverse slides and the traverser could be moved into alignment by the five-digit switcher (aka human hand.) Since the support would be more toward the center, there is even less need for a super-stiff traverser.
To put this into perspective, I use steel stud cassettes to move rolling stock onto and off my layout. My longest cassette is 54 inches long. For loading/unloading it is supported at the extreme ends. It stores on shelf brackets on 32 inch centers. Track is Atlas code 100 flex, caulked down with latex caulk with a layer of 10mm thick extruded foam between the ties and the steel. Electrical power is handled through the rail joiners at the end - not a problem, since the locomotive always backs its train onto the cassette.
Thanks for the help Chuck. I didn't think about using steel studs for supporting the traverser track. Now when you say "If you do all your lateral moving on the lower (staging) level..." are you suggesting moving the staging tracks themselves, or just moving the traverser while it is level with the staging yard? And I like your Idea on how to lift the track. I may have to look into that. I have also seen people use threaded rod (I beleive it was on that N scale logging layout in my OP.) and stopper nuts to raise and lower the tracks.
Jake,
A company already beat you to the idea. It is 'pricey', but it works. Here is the web link; you may be able to get some ideas from the pictures.
http://www.ro-ro.net/
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I know this seems like a really crazy Idea, but it seems like it just might work. I have been boggling my mind for space saving ideas for transitioning from the main level to staging. And I think I just found it. It would be an elevator (like one I saw for an N scale logging layout, I don't have the link on me, but I have seen it many times.) that can slide about 12" from one side to the other. So say I have 6 staging tracks, numbered 1-6 going from left to right. The moving track would slide on a bracket assemble to say, track 4, I would drive the train onto it, rise the track up about 12", and move it to align to the mainline. I could use a motor drive system to raise and lower the transfer track, move it from side to side by hand, using door bolts to hold the transfer track in place and provide electrical continuity while driving the trains onto it. The transfer track would be in the area of 5' long, so the wood supporting the transfer track would have to be thick. Maybe a 2x4 cut down to 1.5x3 or so, narrow side up. With plexi glass screwed to the sides and back end to prevent the train from falling off. I know this is a rather skimpy description, but I have everything planned out in my head, and I am working on a drawing. So check back later for that. For now, what do you guys think?