The only thing I would add to Art Hill's description is, be sure to put in some kind of locating pins (nails, golf pencils or whatever) to assure that the mountain will always go back in the same place - especially if the tunnel clearances are at all tight.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with LOTS of tunnels)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=tunnels
ARTHILL wrote:Get some pink or blue styrofoam from a construction site. Glue pieces together with low temp hot glue or any water based glue or caulk so it is larger than you want. Cut it down to look like a mountian with a steak knife. Turn it on its head and carve out the tunel space. Then paint it. It will look better of you are not too careful. If you want more specific instruction email me.
This is the easiest way. I'd make two corrections for my way of doing it, though: use some tacky glue to secure the pieces together, and instead of a steak knife, use some low grit sandpaper (I use 600 grit, I think).
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Yep. I made the top half of mine removable in case I need to get to the track. The entire tunnel/mountain could have been removable. Dowel pins can be used to guide it back into postion.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I wouldn't build it solid then carve the opening for the tracks. I think that would be too hard to get the train clearances right unless you carve out the entire inside.
I would build a basic tunnel around the tracks first and get it pined (keyed or located) in place and then make sure your trains clear first. Then I would add foam pieces around it and glued to it making a larger hill or mountain. Then carve the outside surface.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
thanks every one ill use the ideas for when i redoo my layout. hopefully i wont be a any more.
tomikawaTT wrote: The only thing I would add to Art Hill's description is, be sure to put in some kind of locating pins (nails, golf pencils or whatever) to assure that the mountain will always go back in the same place - especially if the tunnel clearances are at all tight.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with LOTS of tunnels)
Better plan,. cut yourself some unnoticed teeth in, and leave a base. (Reasearch a "cut, not the verb, but a path of track") Give yourself a back to prevent the mountain from sliding, or better yet, a rock flange on the inside
-Morgan
Flashwave wrote: tomikawaTT wrote: The only thing I would add to Art Hill's description is, be sure to put in some kind of locating pins (nails, golf pencils or whatever) to assure that the mountain will always go back in the same place - especially if the tunnel clearances are at all tight.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with LOTS of tunnels)Better plan,. vut yourself some unnoticed teeth in, and leave a base. (Reasearch a "cut") Give yourself a back to prevent the mountin form sliding, or betyter yet, a rock flange on the inside
Better plan,. vut yourself some unnoticed teeth in, and leave a base. (Reasearch a "cut") Give yourself a back to prevent the mountin form sliding, or betyter yet, a rock flange on the inside
Nan des' ka??? Watashi-wa Nihon-go to Ei-go hanashimas', anata-no-go wakarimasen.
Translation - I need one, into either English or Japanese. You, my friend, need spell-check.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)