Rotorranch wrote:You can solder steel without acid flux, but it HAS to be clean.I really hope it's not steel track. If it is, unless the layout is in a completely climate controlled enviroment, it will tend to have issues with rusting sometime in the near future. Usually right after you complete the layout! It's probably in your best interest to STOP RIGHT NOW, and spend a little cash to get nickle silver track for your layout.Rotor
You can solder steel without acid flux, but it HAS to be clean.
I really hope it's not steel track. If it is, unless the layout is in a completely climate controlled enviroment, it will tend to have issues with rusting sometime in the near future. Usually right after you complete the layout!
It's probably in your best interest to STOP RIGHT NOW, and spend a little cash to get nickle silver track for your layout.
Rotor
Nickle silver track is not that expensive and works very well.
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
MPRR wrote:Take the rail on the flex track that moves, and slide it out a good 6 inches. Then do the same to the other track your connecting. Then take the rail thats out and slide it into the next track. Your joints will be ofset, and have less kinks...
Do this all while the track is straight and solder while straight. Once soldered, then bend curve.
gandydancer19 wrote:Acid flux is corrosive, so don't use it on any model RR work. Steel track will not save you money unless you don't want your trains to run reliably. Check your track with a magnet. Steel track is not very common.
Acid flux is corrosive, so don't use it on any model RR work.
Steel track will not save you money unless you don't want your trains to run reliably. Check your track with a magnet. Steel track is not very common.
True acid core is corrosive, but there are places on the layout where it is fully appropriate. Use acid core when you need maximum strength like when building turnouts. Know that acid core will wick into and under any insulation so using it with wiring is a no no. So long as the acid can be easily flushed and cleaned off, (as in washing with water) it is not a problem.
When all you know how to do is use a hammer, everything tends to look like a nail. . .
I've never seen steel track, so the magnet suggestion is a really good one.
Just my 2 cents,
Joe Daddy
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
PLEASE listen to Gandy dancer and NEVER, NEVER use acid flux on anything that carries electrical current. It will surely corrode and become non conductive and impossible to repair.
Don't ask me how I came about this information. It was Waaaay before the internet forums
73
Bruce in the Peg
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Take the rail on the flex track that moves, and slide it out a good 6 inches. Then do the same to the other track your connecting. Then take the rail thats out and slide it into the next track. Your joints will be ofset, and have less kinks... Do this all while the track is straight and solder while straight. Once soldered, then bend curve.
Notice the gaps in the rails where I have offset them.
Mike
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
I have never soldered steel track, but I have read that you need to use acid flux with it.
You can solder it before bending.
However, I usually install part of it on the curve, even up the rails on the uninstalled part, solder the next section to it, and then continue installing. This works better if I have 2 joints to make in the curve.
Enjoy
Paul
Economy Guy wrote:I need some ideas on how to join flex track together in a curve. I sawcut the rails but it is nearly impossible to get them to line up and stay that way. Can they be soldered before flexing? Oh I'm the economy guy so I bought steel flex track. Also educate me about soldering track together. It is so hard to get the solder to stick. Thanks for any help
If you're working with code 100 (or smaller) rail, I'd recommend nothing larger than a 45 watt iron. Any larger, you'll be melting ties all over the place. The key to soldering ANYTHING is that the pieces to be joined are cleaned properly. Buff them off to a good shine. I normally use a typing eraser, the type you sharpen like a pencil. The point of it gets into the web of the rail for a good cleaning. Then use solder flux VERY SPARINGLY. For wire drops between the rail and buss line, I drill a hole between the tie ends and feed the wire down it. Strip and buff the wire end, then put a double bend in it. First bend it 90 degrees so it lays parallel to the rail, then put a small bend in it to push it against the rail when the wire is pulled down into the hole. Add the flux to the joint, tin the tip of the iron, touch it to the joint, and it should solder it fast in a second or two. When the joint cools, use a stiff brush to remove any flux residue.
Two reasons for using solder flux sparingly: 1. It has to completely vaporize before the joint area will be hot enough to melt the solder. 2. The vapor is very irritating, don't breathe it or let it get in your eyes. An old trick I learned was to exhale slowly across the joint, starting just before you touch the soldering iron to it, and continue until you remove the iron from the joint. The fumes will blow away from you. This should work even with HO scale steel track, although I can't recall seeing steel flex track.
I'd also ask, how tight of a curve are you putting in the flex track?
Steel flex track? Are you sure it is not N/S flex? Steel will rust and it is hard to cut, and solder/weld. I use a Xuron rail cutter or a Dremel cutoff disk to cut flex. If it is really steel track - Good Luck.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin