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Hydrocal good for grade crossings?

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  • Member since
    November 2015
  • 668 posts
Hydrocal good for grade crossings?
Posted by Tjsingle on Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:05 PM

Hey guys,

When i was working on my layout i tried on a spare piece of track, hydrocal for grade crossings, i liked the way it looked when it dried, and i applied it to my layout it worked great and trains ran over it with ease, the flanges were clear in order to run the trains. Is this a good idea to use hydrocal, or should i use a different material on my 2 over grade crossings?

Thanks Again

Tommy Single

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Amish country Tenn.
  • 10,027 posts
Posted by loathar on Thursday, June 19, 2008 1:22 PM
Hydrocal works fine, but is that type of grade crossing appropriate for the road and era your doing? I see blacktop type crossings more on rural 2 lane road crossings. Then you have the steel plate, rubber mat type in modern heavy traffic areas. And you used to have the wood tie type years ago. It really depends on the look your going for.
  • Member since
    November 2015
  • 668 posts
Posted by Tjsingle on Thursday, June 19, 2008 2:04 PM

My era is modern, but its in arural western Pennsylvania, Southfork To be exact, and all there is paved over crossings, sometimes without crossing gates. No rubber or metal on this layout.

Tjsingle

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Eastern Shore Virginia
  • 3,290 posts
Posted by gandydancer19 on Thursday, June 19, 2008 7:13 PM
You might be able to get a sharper edge near the inside of the rails where the flanges run by using plastic. (Styrene)  Just paint it to match the road.  Sometimes a sharp edge looks better than the plaster edge which may become rounded.

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Northeast
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Posted by GraniteRailroader on Friday, June 20, 2008 9:18 AM

Automotive bondo. It's cheap. 10$ will get you the equivalent of a gallon of the "putty" and a couple tubes of hardener. This will last you forever.

It's sandable, etc. I've been using it for a long time.

This space reserved for SpaceMouse's future presidential candidacy advertisements

  • Member since
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  • From: Somewhere in North Texas
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Posted by desertdog on Friday, June 20, 2008 10:17 PM

Hydrocal will work for grade crossings--I know because I've done it.  You need to apply it in thin layers or it may crack as it dries.  It looks good, too.  I mixed India Ink into it (one big drop is all it takes for a small job) and it turns out a nice, worn asphalt color.  On my current layout, I used rubber mat and concrete grade crossings with metal lagging for a modern look.

John Timm 

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: US
  • 1,400 posts
Posted by fiatfan on Saturday, June 21, 2008 7:34 PM

I use plaster of paris to the same effect.  I simply pour the road and smooth it.  To cut the flangeway, I use a hacksaw blade.  Give a nice clean edge, works quickly,and is easy to do.

  (click to enlarge)

 

Tom 

Life is simple - eat, drink, play with trains!

Go Big Red!

PA&ERR "If you think you are doing something stupid, you're probably right!"

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