Well, I think I have something in mind, at my hobbystore, there is a Kato Uni-Track (Worlds Greatest Hobby Trackplan) track pack for $150, I'm focusing on that on a 4'x8' table (which still needs to be built. what I was thinking for that, is making the table it self, and then putting another platform 2 feet under the top of the table and have an oval of Atlas Tru-Track for test track. Does this sound like a good idea?
~Mike~
Sounds like you've got a plan!
Were I you, I'd build the top level of your table at a height of 50 inches or so, with an open grid top. Then I'd put the lower level at 26-28 inches, convenient for working from a standard chair and high enough to get your legs underneath it. (actually, 24 inches top-to-top might be a bit excessive, if the only thing on the lower level is a loop of test track.)
By building the top level with an open frame, you will be able to change it if you decide to go with a different track plan in the future. Kato Unitrack is good for a starter layout, but the majority of modelers soon outgrow the start and want to expand or modify. Planning to do that now will make it easier later.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Thanks, that sounds good, I don't think I'm ready to start using non-roadbed track or flex track on cork roadbed just yet, maybe in a future layout design, but not right now.
I agree with Tomikawa on the track thing; you'll get bored and frustrated with the Tru Track because you are limited on track turn radii as well as the lack of realistic looking, flowing track. Even if you use the Atlas code 100 flextrack, you can build a very nice track plan with it compared to the Tru Track. And, eventually you'll want varying heights to your track bed, depending on whether you're going with a well maintained main line, a not-so-well maintained branch line or a spur. These things are not possible with the Tru Track, with it's "high iron" main line look.
The main thing here is to not limit your creativity and to have fun with what you've created. The 4' x 8' is a good place to start, especially if you've never done any modeling before but you may very well want something more than that down the line. Good luck and, most of all, have fun!
Thanks for the advice ;)
Now, if I were to go with DCC, and bought a decoder (chip?[I'm new to DCC]) and a remote, would I have to solder in the decoder? or if its "DCC ready", do I just plug it in?
sfrr wrote: Now, if I were to go with DCC, and bought a decoder (chip?[I'm new to DCC]) and a remote, would I have to solder in the decoder? or if its "DCC ready", do I just plug it in? ~Mike~
If your loco is DCC ready and has the correct socket and you buy the correct decoder with the correct connector, then yes. It just plugs in.Soldering your own decoders in allows you to buy lower cost locos and decoders and do the work yourself. In other words, you can buy a $40 Athearn loco and install a $17 decoder for about half the cost of buying something else that will require less work.
I don't really understand the purpose of a lower deck test track loop?? Most test tracks I've seen were just a straight away that could also be used as a programming track.(a DCC thing) This could just be a narrow shelf mounted to the side of your layout.
loathar wrote: sfrr wrote: Now, if I were to go with DCC, and bought a decoder (chip?[I'm new to DCC]) and a remote, would I have to solder in the decoder? or if its "DCC ready", do I just plug it in? ~Mike~ I don't really understand the purpose of a lower deck test track loop?? Most test tracks I've seen were just a straight away that could also be used as a programming track.(a DCC thing) This could just be a narrow shelf mounted to the side of your layout.
Well, I'm just weird and would like to have a test loop (Since I already have a bunch of Atlas Tru-Track, and wouldn't want it to go to waste) I was thinking too, I have a younger brother (8 year old [Bleh!]) and he tends to screw with my stuff (Especially my $600 of train stuff!) so I was thinking just making him a mini layout to mess with under mine, I can get Tru-Track for cheap off of ebay too :)
$150 for track plans sounds pricey to me. Consider buying "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" by John Armstrong. Great read, good photographs, lots of ideas, lots of track plans, all the data you need for easements, track spacing, height clearance, everything. And it's a lot less than $150. Armstrong was (he is recently deceased) the great expert on track planning.
The major benefit of the 4*8 layout is super simple construction. If your carpentry skills are sufficient to think about a two level table, or an open grid table, they are sufficient to build an around-the-walls layout which gets you a lot more layout in the same space.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
well, its a box of Kato Uni-Track, so, i think it will work for me :)