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layout gate

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  • Member since
    January 2002
  • 1 posts
layout gate
Posted by jrmuel on Friday, February 27, 2004 7:46 AM
I am designing a layout the will run around the perimeter of a room. I would like to have some type of gate the lifts or swings so that I don't have to crawl under to get access to the center. Any suggestions on how to construct and wire would be appreciated. thanks JimM
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 9:15 AM
There is a neat(and it looks effective also) gate design on www.trainboard.com
Go to train board. then to the model railroad area, click on inspection pit, then the post is titled"NO MORE DUCK UNDERS". It is an off center hinged gate that swings up. Lokks like it would remain solid and wouldn't get out of wack from opening and closing.
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Friday, February 27, 2004 10:34 AM
I have the same issues with entrance to the layout as you, Jim. I looked at all sorts of fancy swing up, open in, open out, cantilevered entryway "things", and decided on falling back on the KISS method. I've got a three'level layout, with two of the levels crossing the entryway.

I ended up building two simple drop downs out of 3/4" plywood. I first fabricated a simple studwall out of 2x2's to either side of the entryway to create a "doorway" into my layout, about one foot wide. I then cut two pieces of plywood that were 10" wide by 2 feet long (the width of the entry). I added 2x2 horizontal supports where I wanted attachment points to the doorway. I added a heavy-duty door hinge to the bottom of each length of plywood, and added two throwbolts to the other side. It was a simple matter of making sure everything was level, and screwing the hinge to the horizontal supports. On the other side, I drilled out holes to accept the throwbolts.

Each bridge drops down on an different side of the entryway, so they don't rest on each other when down. They lay flat against the doorway, providing ample clearance. The only thing they won't do is "protect" the mainlines by shutting off power to the track while they're down. I'm relying on the hope that my operators will be smart enough to tell when the bridges are down, and not run trains off into space (or suffer a severe beating if they do!)

My drop-down bridges have been in for two months now, and so far, they work great. There's very little play to them, and I haven't had an alignment issue with the one bridge that I've laid track on. Since the system is so simple, it will be easy to make minor adjustments to it in case of humidity expansion.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: PtTownsendWA
  • 1,445 posts
Posted by johncolley on Saturday, February 28, 2004 12:01 AM
Ray, a suggestion...some tiny microswitches at both ends of the lifts to cut off power a little over the length of your longest locomotive or consist will stop a major accident from occurring. Try Radio Shack or an industrial electrical supply house for them. John
jc5729

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